Jump to content

Electrically Inclined. . .or is it declined?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a basic question about wiring... I know how to wire stuff up, but it's always been with pre-included wires. What AWG wiring is best for 12v/automotive applications? Particularly, if adding an additional turn signal or brake light? And the same wires go for foglights?

 

I'm looking at adding turn signals on or near my side mirrors, does anyone happen to know a good place to tap into for both the driver and passenger sides?

 

THANKS!

 

:chevy:

Posted

It depends on how much current the wire will be carrying. 10Ga wire will carry 30A all day long. This seems high for a fog and 14Ga sounds very high for turn signal.

 

I did a quick search in all the GM electrical schematics I have and the typical gauge size for turn signals is 0.50mm^2 or 20Ga wire. Fog lamps are showing the same.

 

Check the fog and turn signal current draw, usually found in a specification for the light. If you are using aftermarket, they may have a larger current draw than the stock ones. Fuse the fog lamps from an ignition relay in the underhood fusepanel (UHBEC). Fuse the turn signals with a any of the headlamp relays in the UHBEC. This should provide you with the closest to OEM you can get without actually using all OEM parts.

 

Fuse accordingly and don't oversize the wires. Best thing to do is determine how much current the light will draw and use the respective wire gauge. There should be charts all over the internet that will tell you use "XX" Ga wire with "XX" amount of current. Oversized wires will result in unnecessary voltage drop. Not a big deal with the turnsignals, but the fog lamps will suffer in performance.

Posted

If you need to convert watts to amps, here's the formula:

 

amps = watts / volts

 

Example:

 

55 watt fog lights

14 v nominal electrical system voltage

 

amps = 55 / 14 = approximately 4 amps.

 

(So two 55 watt fog lights would draw 8 amps.)

Posted
Fuse accordingly and don't oversize the wires.  Best thing to do is determine how much current the light will draw and use the respective wire gauge.  Oversized wires will result in unnecessary voltage drop.  Not a big deal with the turnsignals, but the fog lamps will suffer in performance.

 

 

 

 

This is exactly opposite of the fact. Increasing wire size reduces voltage drop which is critical on 12VDC systems.Why do some people on the board insist on posting misleading information when they have no clue to what they are posting about? :chevy:

Posted
Fuse accordingly and don't oversize the wires.   Best thing to do is determine how much current the light will draw and use the respective wire gauge.  Oversized wires will result in unnecessary voltage drop.  Not a big deal with the turnsignals, but the fog lamps will suffer in performance.

 

 

 

 

This is exactly opposite of the fact. Increasing wire size reduces voltage drop which is critical on 12VDC systems.Why do some people on the board insist on posting misleading information when they have no clue to what they are posting about? :)

 

 

 

 

 

My fault. Long day, bad post. Had the logic backwards. I am kinda familiar with 12V DC systems. Kinda harsh were'nt you?

Posted

Um, BBSilverado, I think you misworded that...

Undersized or a long run causes a voltage drop, oversized doesn't hurt anything except its bigger and heavier.

 

A good rule of thumb (thanks to the late Carl Colson):

14 gauge is good for 15 amps, and it doubles (or halves) for every 3 wire size number changes.

 

It ain't exact, but it will get you very close, with a safety margin.

 

Now, you won't find 17 gauge wire of course, but you can get a good idea what current your wire is capable of carrying. Also, wire is rated in a number of ohms/1000ft typically, and that's where your voltage drop comes in. For example, 14 gauge wire is 2.5 ohms/1000ft. That means it would drop more than 30V over that 1000 ft if it were carrying 15 amps. In 12V systems, that starts to become a problem.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Sad thing is that this doesn't have to be the case. LSPI can be solved without a reduction in TBN. Swap Ca for Mg.  Cats are not a issue if the OEM can get a ring and valve guide seal even at SN levels of SAPS. Dizzy is purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. 200K of Full SAPS oil and zero detonation issues and nice a clean inside and out. This shouldn't be an issue. It isn't 1920.    Tell ya what AMSOIL SS is excellent at, internal cleanliness. The new formula is even a step up from their already outstanding cleanliness levels. Can't say the OEM offering is quite that clean. There marketing suggest the SS is cleaner.     That is the only defense with at shelf oil. Nothing wrong with them if you ignore the marketing and OEM 'recommended' OCI and use a thimble full of common sense. 😉 You go sir. 
    • I started with a folding cover by BAK PAC on my 2500. It went bad after close to 5 years. Bent and vinyl coming loose. Contacted BAK and they gave me a very good discount on a Revolver. Had it a number of years. Mostly outdoor storage. Some garage storage. Vinyl started to come loose. Still under warranty so they replaced to cover. Sold the 2500, bought the 1500 and got another revolver for it. Had it a couple years now and no issues. I store it indoors. Got a bit of discount when buying it as well. If you are seeing problems, contact BAK or real truck and let them know. Customer service was pretty good. But I think they changed their warranty.
    • I agree, there is no one answer fits all as every rig is different, one may be pulling some little aluminum fishing boat while another is towing a monstrosity that weighs a lot and hopefully the owner if the rig has some prior experience to know what drive mode they should choose.    It also struck me and this is from watching a few of those boat ramp escapades videos in the past, Ford being one of the vehicles that has the auto front axle hubs and sure enough its found out that one hub has crapped out and won't engage and may not have manual hubs to even select on both sides so they are on the boat ramp stuck with no four wheel drive and spinning .... they flat out need a tow to get up the ramp and deal with the vehicles new found issues. That can happen to all brands of pickup, finding out either four wheel drive or 4 low isn't working right at the time its needed it to work as some electronic crap has failed. 
    • Its possible you never had the joy of the crappy boat launches we tend to have around here or really some of them are just grades down to the river if its a river scenario and the conditions change all the time with the river levels and silt deposits. Some of the lakes we went to years ago, there was no such thing as a cement pad that went down into the water that the trailer stayed on, it was gravel maybe up to the water line and then duck crap much beyond that so sinking the boat tires into mud. Of course some of the more established lakes had a cement bar type boat ramp but sometimes it was covered in green slime closer and certainly within the water and a two wheel drive had all sorts of fun if one had to touch that slime with the rear tires.    A neighbor of mine had made a comment years back with his chev truck that was probably about the same year as yours but a half ton extended cab 4x4 and he a a fiberglass boat with an inboard so it wasn't a feather weight and he had gone out to one of the large popular lakes in the area and don't ask me how this happened but he was in two wheel drive as he figured he didn't require four wheel drive for that boat ramp and somehow upon pulling the boat out he twisted one of his drive axles. I suspect it must have spun and then grabbed on the cement ramp and shocked it to the degree of twisting it. He would have had the standard 8.5 or whatever it was axle housing as the 9.5 ring gear like my truck has also has larger drive axles as far as I know. Anyway he was feeling a vibration driving home and had it checked out and a shop found that the tire/hub was wobbling because of the axle had twisted so in went a new drive axle. After that bad experience he said he made sure to put it into four wheel drive to lower the stress on the rear axle. Of course that is where an HD truck can handle a lot more stress and no doubt these newer half tons with their larger ring gears probably have larger drive axles as well to match vs back in the day. 
    • Desirable - as in does someone WANT one, aspire to have one. Could reasonably buy any car they want and CHOOSE these instead.    I didn't watch the video, why did they win?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...