Jump to content

Looking For Advice On Trade

gsingletary

Recommended Posts

gsingletary New Member

gsingletary

Posted
Posted

I purchased and 08 Silverado RCSB last February. Life happened, I now have a wife and dog and I'm in need of more room. I was hacklin around with the salesmen today on a 06 Sierra CCSB 4X4 with 55K miles. When I left the offer was $16,150.67 plus TTL (basically putting the Sierra at 22K). I paid 18K for my Silverado and owe 6700 on it. KBB trade for my truck is 13500 and KBB retail for the Sierra is 19,800. I my head if they give me 13K for my truck, 18K for the Sierra would be a reasonable price; which would have me only financing 5K more than what I owe now. If anyone has any input or advice I would greatly appreciate it, I always like to get second opinions. Oh, and seeing that this is my first post here I would like to say I'm glad to have come across this forum. I usually got to chevytruck world but it seems to be a bit dead. Whether I find a new truck or not I'll be around asking for and giving help where I can. Thanks.

omegafiler Senior Enthusiast

omegafiler

Posted
Posted

Check out edmunds.com for used car values as well as their "true market value." It seems to be the closest to real-world prices than most places. Then search around to see what they've both been selling for. Once you have some good numbers, just go in there, and make 'em an offer. Perhaps even a bit lower than you really want, to give them a chance to meet you somewhere in the middle.

 

If they won't accept a reasonable offer, I'd definately check a few more dealers. Shouldn't be hard at all to find plenty of used '06 CCSB trucks out there. Good luck and welcome to the forum!

MikeInCtown Enthusiast

MikeInCtown

Posted
Posted

Edmunds is more accurate then KBB for sure. Dealers use KBB a lot because the prices are inflated.

 

In any event be aware that the 08 probably had the active fuel management where the 06 will not. If you do a lot of highway miles you will see that for sure. I'm also not sure what the bed size may be for the 06 but the crew cab models typically have the 6' bed vs the 6.5' bed. Having has an S-10 with a 6' bed there s actually a lot of stuff that will fit in a 6.5' bed vs a 6' bed. (my motorcycle being one.) I also found out that the extended cab I bought will fit into my garage with 3" left over when my bumper is on the wall. The crew cab will not. The neighbor across from me can't put his 4x4 Dodge CC in his garage because it will hit at the top. The space I lost by going EC vs CC on the interior was maybe a few inches. I'm 6'1" and can sit in the back seat of my truck. The CC would have more room but not sure it's worth it.

PhilB Enthusiast

PhilB

Posted
Posted

If you are not in a real bind to sell your '08, then you may want to try and sell it yourself instead of trading it in. If you get a few more $$ than your trade-in price, it will be worth it. :D You can always find another used CC. It's a buyer's market. The dealers make more money on the used cars. Of course the price will be inflated, but there is a lot of room to negotiate. See if you can find out how much they paid for their used truck and offer them a little bit more over that price. If they want to make the deal, they will work with you. Good luck!

sonjaab Senior Enthusiast

sonjaab

Posted
Posted

Best your gonna get is dead flat wholesale price for your

trade and of course the dealer is gonna want kelly, edmunds, and the like retail price on the other rig !

 

Of course the dealer is gonna play the "smoke n mirrors" game with numbers so do your homework !

 

Good luck!

z0lt3c Enthusiast

z0lt3c

Posted
Posted

Manheim MMR wholesale price on a 2008 Silverado 1500 RCSB 4x4 5.3 V8 w/ around 12,500 miles is $15k in average condition. I don't know if this is exactly the specs on your truck, but this truck is actually selling fairly well at auction, I see a number selling in 15k-16k range with up to 25k miles.

 

If this matches the spec on your truck, and you can't get 13K from a dealer in trade I would find another dealer, or work directly with a wholesaler. 13K sounds 1 or 2 K short.

ukrkoz Enthusiast

ukrkoz

Posted
Posted

1. sell the truck for hard cash, for as much as you can

2. turn around and buy one, fo cash again, off craigslist.(better even, seek a buddy or a friendly guy with dealer license, and buy one off auction. here, Mr Friendly charges $200 for such transaction. sometimes, there's no damage; sometimes, you can get a steal for a cost of few bucks invested into new bumper/fender and a paint job; sometimes, you can win a whole car for a buck)

 

you will pay no interest, if patient enough, might grab a hot deal, and will not have to play nerve racking games with dealership. you will always lose with them, always.

 

CASH TALKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! too many folks around with burning mortgage payments AND truck payments.

98 Z71 SLT Senior Enthusiast

98 Z71 SLT

Posted
Posted
I purchased and 08 Silverado RCSB last February. Life happened, I now have a wife and dog and I'm in need of more room. I was hacklin around with the salesmen today on a 06 Sierra CCSB 4X4 with 55K miles. When I left the offer was $16,150.67 plus TTL (basically putting the Sierra at 22K). I paid 18K for my Silverado and owe 6700 on it. KBB trade for my truck is 13500 and KBB retail for the Sierra is 19,800. I my head if they give me 13K for my truck, 18K for the Sierra would be a reasonable price; which would have me only financing 5K more than what I owe now. If anyone has any input or advice I would greatly appreciate it, I always like to get second opinions. Oh, and seeing that this is my first post here I would like to say I'm glad to have come across this forum. I usually got to chevytruck world but it seems to be a bit dead. Whether I find a new truck or not I'll be around asking for and giving help where I can. Thanks.

 

 

If I am reading this correcty, they are giving you $0 for your truck.

 

You said the difference was $16,150 when you left.

 

For a 06 Crew Cab Sierra 4x4, you are paying $16k (which is what they stuck into it as a trade)

 

They are taking your 08 on trade for $0, then they will sell it for $14,000 all day long.

 

You said KBB difference between the 2 trucks is $6000.

 

How do you end up owing $16k when all is done. You owe $6700 on your 08.

 

$6700 plus $6000 difference equals $12000.

 

Ripped off. Don't even consider it.

 

Pay off your current truck, then sell it.

 

THEN, look for a decent 04-06 Suburban / Yukon /Tahoe. You can get these all day long for a song and a dance.

gsingletary New Member

gsingletary

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I purchased and 08 Silverado RCSB last February. Life happened, I now have a wife and dog and I'm in need of more room. I was hacklin around with the salesmen today on a 06 Sierra CCSB 4X4 with 55K miles. When I left the offer was $16,150.67 plus TTL (basically putting the Sierra at 22K). I paid 18K for my Silverado and owe 6700 on it. KBB trade for my truck is 13500 and KBB retail for the Sierra is 19,800. I my head if they give me 13K for my truck, 18K for the Sierra would be a reasonable price; which would have me only financing 5K more than what I owe now. If anyone has any input or advice I would greatly appreciate it, I always like to get second opinions. Oh, and seeing that this is my first post here I would like to say I'm glad to have come across this forum. I usually got to chevytruck world but it seems to be a bit dead. Whether I find a new truck or not I'll be around asking for and giving help where I can. Thanks.

 

 

If I am reading this correcty, they are giving you $0 for your truck.

 

You said the difference was $16,150 when you left.

 

For a 06 Crew Cab Sierra 4x4, you are paying $16k (which is what they stuck into it as a trade)

 

They are taking your 08 on trade for $0, then they will sell it for $14,000 all day long.

 

You said KBB difference between the 2 trucks is $6000.

 

How do you end up owing $16k when all is done. You owe $6700 on your 08.

 

$6700 plus $6000 difference equals $12000.

 

Ripped off. Don't even consider it.

 

Pay off your current truck, then sell it.

 

THEN, look for a decent 04-06 Suburban / Yukon /Tahoe. You can get these all day long for a song and a dance.

 

 

 

They are askin ~22K for the Sierra and will give me 13K for my truck as a trade in; basically I would be paying 9K for the Sierra. Add the 9K for the Sierra to the 7K I owe on my Silverado and I'm left paying off ~16K. I agree, those numbers are BS so I made an offer of 18K for the Sierra minus 13K for my trade in, leaving me paying 5K for the Sierra and paying on a total of 12K (5K for Sierra plus the 7K I owe) once the deal is done.

LousCrew Enthusiast

LousCrew

Posted
Posted
I'm also not sure what the bed size may be for the 06 but the crew cab models typically have the 6' bed vs the 6.5' bed.

 

I've got an 06 CC, and the bed is actually 5'8", not even 6'. It's definitly a disadvantage vs longer beds.

08SGMSierra Enthusiast

08SGMSierra

Posted
Posted
I purchased and 08 Silverado RCSB last February. Life happened, I now have a wife and dog and I'm in need of more room. I was hacklin around with the salesmen today on a 06 Sierra CCSB 4X4 with 55K miles. When I left the offer was $16,150.67 plus TTL (basically putting the Sierra at 22K). I paid 18K for my Silverado and owe 6700 on it. KBB trade for my truck is 13500 and KBB retail for the Sierra is 19,800. I my head if they give me 13K for my truck, 18K for the Sierra would be a reasonable price; which would have me only financing 5K more than what I owe now. If anyone has any input or advice I would greatly appreciate it, I always like to get second opinions. Oh, and seeing that this is my first post here I would like to say I'm glad to have come across this forum. I usually got to chevytruck world but it seems to be a bit dead. Whether I find a new truck or not I'll be around asking for and giving help where I can. Thanks.

 

 

If I am reading this correcty, they are giving you $0 for your truck.

 

You said the difference was $16,150 when you left.

 

For a 06 Crew Cab Sierra 4x4, you are paying $16k (which is what they stuck into it as a trade)

 

They are taking your 08 on trade for $0, then they will sell it for $14,000 all day long.

 

You said KBB difference between the 2 trucks is $6000.

 

How do you end up owing $16k when all is done. You owe $6700 on your 08.

 

$6700 plus $6000 difference equals $12000.

 

Ripped off. Don't even consider it.

 

Pay off your current truck, then sell it.

 

THEN, look for a decent 04-06 Suburban / Yukon /Tahoe. You can get these all day long for a song and a dance.

 

 

 

They are askin ~22K for the Sierra and will give me 13K for my truck as a trade in; basically I would be paying 9K for the Sierra. Add the 9K for the Sierra to the 7K I owe on my Silverado and I'm left paying off ~16K. I agree, those numbers are BS so I made an offer of 18K for the Sierra minus 13K for my trade in, leaving me paying 5K for the Sierra and paying on a total of 12K (5K for Sierra plus the 7K I owe) once the deal is done.

 

 

That seems very high for an 06 with 55k on it. I have been looking at NBS Ext cabs for about 4 months. I try to buy private party, but have been considering dealers as well. A fairly local dealer had a 07 Ext cab, power pack, 4x4, Z71 truck with a few chrome add ons and nice bed cover for $24,488 no haggle sticker, 3,500 miles btw.

 

I am picking up my 08 Sierra Ext. cab with some nice options for 23k next weekend, 8,500 miles! Thats not even a hardship sale.

 

Unless you hate to deal with private sales, or do not have another vehicle to drive inbetween selling your current truck and buing a new one......I would agree. Sell yours first, then shop around for your CC. I have seen plenty of 07- trucks with less than 15k for much lower than you what you mentioned.

 

On a side note, in Jan when my friend and I were both looking (he just bought a ford) several dealers told us that the trucks "were just flying off the lots". Several of the ones we looked at are still on the same lots :lol:

i82much Enthusiast

i82much

Posted
Posted

RCSB's rock. Put a cap on it so you can keep your stuff dry, put a sliding rear window in so your pup can peep his nose in and say hi, and keep that awesome truck you've already got!

66nova Senior Enthusiast

66nova

Posted
Posted
They are askin ~22K for the Sierra and will give me 13K for my truck as a trade in; basically I would be paying 9K for the Sierra. Add the 9K for the Sierra to the 7K I owe on my Silverado and I'm left paying off ~16K. I agree, those numbers are BS so I made an offer of 18K for the Sierra minus 13K for my trade in, leaving me paying 5K for the Sierra and paying on a total of 12K (5K for Sierra plus the 7K I owe) once the deal is done.

 

:lol: DANG 22K for an 06. Walk Run away. You should be able to get a GMT900 for that much!

zxcv Enthusiast

zxcv

Posted
Posted
On a side note, in Jan when my friend and I were both looking (he just bought a ford) several dealers told us that the trucks "were just flying off the lots". Several of the ones we looked at are still on the same lots :P

 

 

Hahahaha that's what happened when I was debating buying a Jeep Wrangler instead of my truck back in '07. The dealer said that they were flying off the lot and wouldn't negotiate to the price that I wanted. Sooooo, I buy the truck and around 6 months afterward, the Jeep I was looking at was still there. :lol:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • GMCustomerService
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • GMCustomerService
      2026 Z71 Forward and Rear Park Assist help

      By GMCustomerService · Posted

      We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...