Jump to content

Post-blackbear 93 Octane Tune '09 5.3l Mpg Results


Recommended Posts

Posted
This is what I was talking about. Tunes can be TRACKED. It is not about if the chip you have in is tuned or not it is the counter. If the counter on the chip does not match the counter in the computer they can tell you are switching out your chips.

 

 

 

Please elaborate on the "COUNTER" you are referring to.

I would like more info on this please..

I swap my tuned and untuned modules out every once in a while...but I am very curious about this "COUNTER."

 

What does it actually "DO" and what does it interface with?

 

The only chips I have found, are left over lays I dropped on the floor mats.

 

 

Corporate Bulletin Number 08-06-04-033 is currently available in SI.

 

Identifying Aftermarket Engine Calibrations 2.0L, 2.2L, 2.4L, 2.8L, 2.9L, 3.0L, 3.1L, 3.2L, 3.4L,

3.5L, 3.6L, 3.8L, 3.9L, 4.2L, 4.3L, 4.4L, 4.6L, 4.8L, 5.0L, 5.3L, 5.7L, 6.0L, 6.2L, 7.0L, 7.4L, 8.1L

Gas Powered Engines Only

 

Models: 2006–2009 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks

2006–2009 HUMMER H2, H3

Excluding Pontiac Vibe, G8, Chevrolet Aveo, All Saturn and Saab Models

 

Important: This bulletin applies to Gas Powered Engines ONLY. For Diesel Powered Engines, refer to Service Bulletin #08-06-04-006A.

 

If a suspicious hard part failure is observed in the engine, transmission, transfer case or driveline, perform the calibration verification described to determine if a non-GM issued engine calibration is installed. Non-GM issued engine calibrations subject driveline components to stresses different than the calibrations which these components were validated to. Repairs to transmission, transfer case and/or other driveline components where a non-GM engine calibration has been verified are not covered under the terms of the New Vehicle Warranty.

 

Instructions for Confirming Calibration Verification Number (CVN):

 

1. Go to TIS2WEB

2. Select "Calibration Information (SPS Info)"

3. Enter VIN

4. Select "Get Cal ID"

5. Select "ECM Engine Control Module"

6. Select "Next"

7. Select "Complete History"

8. Print

9. Take the printout to the vehicle along with the Tech 2®

10. Plug in the Tech 2®

11. Go to diagnostics and build the vehicle

12. Select "Powertrain"

13. Select "Engine"

14. *Select "Engine Control Module" or "PCM"

15. *Select "Module ID Information" or "I/M Information System" if module ID information selection is not available.

16. *If "I/M information System" was selected in step 15, it may be necessary to select "Vehicle Information" in order to display the calibration information.

17. Compare the calibration ID and Calibration Verification Numbers (CVN) to the Calibration Verification Numbers (CVN) on the printout.

 

* Steps may vary by controller.

 

Although the part numbers will be the same for each, it's the CVN that will determine if the calibration is GM issued. If ALL of the CVN's are EXACTLY the same, the calibration is GM issued.

 

If the part numbers match and ANY CVN's DO NOT match the printout, it is likely that a non-GM certified calibration has been installed.

 

If the CVN information is displayed as "N/A", it will be necessary to contact the TCSC to obtain the CVN information.

 

If a non-GM calibration is found to be in the ECM (CVN's on the Tech 2 do not match TIS printout) - In order to document the case — a CLEAR digital picture should be taken of the Tech 2® screen showing the VIN and the CVN's that do not match the TIS2WEB printout. The picture, VIN and reason the vehicle is currently in for service should be emailed to [email protected] and STEVEN.R. [email protected] for verification. Please copy your GM District Service Manager (DVM) on the e-mail. GM will verify if the CVN's are not GM issued and respond via e-mail within 72 hours.

 

Its simple, keep a spare set of modules. The calibration that was programmed stays the same if you take the modules out and swap them in for waranty work. The info on clanges when either the ECM is reprogrammed(Tune) or flashed.

 

Diesels, from what I have heard are a little harder to fool, since the DPF need to regen after a certain amount of time. The cycles can be verified vs. time/ mileage.

Posted

Is it possible that, for example step #7, will show in the HISTORY that the ecm was switched or dissconnected??? Or is there some other place other than the ecm that would show a history of timing or such that would indicate a aftermarket tune? I ve always had a tune but haven t done this one yet.

Posted
Is it possible that, for example step #7, will show in the HISTORY that the ecm was switched or dissconnected??? Or is there some other place other than the ecm that would show a history of timing or such that would indicate a aftermarket tune? I ve always had a tune but haven t done this one yet.

No, From what I have seen it only shows the number of flashes...up to 10, IIRC.

Posted
Is it possible that, for example step #7, will show in the HISTORY that the ecm was switched or dissconnected??? Or is there some other place other than the ecm that would show a history of timing or such that would indicate a aftermarket tune? I ve always had a tune but haven t done this one yet.

No, From what I have seen it only shows the number of flashes...up to 10, IIRC.

 

 

 

thanks for all the info Draenor. it seems possible that at some point GM can issue an ECM software update that could include some sort of data logger to track the ECM history/timing. anybody concerned with this? i'm sure the resounding answer will be "No, whenever i drop my truck off at the dealership i give explicit instructions not to apply software updates without my consent". but it only takes one technician not aware of your stipulation to uncover reason to void your warranty.

 

i know these questions are paranoia over a hypothetical situation, but i'm curious nonetheless.

Posted

from Black Bear's FAQ page:

 

Will I need to perform a Crank Relearn procedure with your tune?

 

Yes, as with all other tunes that involve swapping out the stock PCM for a tuned one that was previously in another vehicle, you will need to perform a crank relearn procedure. Any dealership or shop with a GM Tech 2 or other high end scanner should be able to perform this procedure in under 5 minutes.

 

 

 

Customers that utilize the Scan Cable option will be able to perform this procedure on their own, provided that they have a laptop available to use. This is a potential savings of up to $100, depending on dealership rates. This does not apply to 98-00 Classic Body style trucks and SUVs.

 

Posted
There is no questioning the performance benefits you get from the tune, but the issue still arises that the dealer can tell if your trucks are tuned now and WILL void your warranty, wither or not your have power train issues. Warranty by far is more important than a tune for the first 3 years / 36,000 miles or so. They posted a bulletin on it not to long ago, but there has been such a LARGE increase in tuned trucks, and thus issues coming from the tunes.

 

I am still on the fence, but I think the tune will have to wait till the warranty is over for me.

 

I FORGOT TO MENTION, I PURCHASED A SPARE ECM FROM JUSTIN AND ALL I HAVE TO DO IS INSTALL MY STOCK ECM BACK INTO THE TRUCK BEFORE SERVICE APPOINTMENTS

Posted
Do you not need to do a crank relearn on the GMT900's?

 

 

I had to perform the crank re-learn with my spare ECM, it took exactly 45 minutes just as the instructions told me it would. No problems at all.

  • 4 years later...
Posted

 

Please elaborate on the "COUNTER" you are referring to.I would like more info on this please..I swap my tuned and untuned modules out every once in a while...but I am very curious about this "COUNTER."What does it actually "DO" and what does it interface with?

The "counter" is the ability of most new vehicles to COUNT the amount of times that the computer has been looked at, plugged into, changed, how many miles that computer has been on the truck (if the milage on the computer is not the same as the dash then they know you are doing something shady and can pull your warranty for that reason alone). It is great to convince your self that there is no way for the dealer to know that you are dicking around with the stock tune, but if they want to know... well... they will know. Tuning is a choice that each person has to make on their own. I don't think it is cool to lie to people for your own peace of mind. I tuned my truck, voided the warranty, and love it. BUT if I apple core a transmission or break/bend a rod, I can pull it and replace it all with one that will not until the next weakest link fails. Sorry for ya everybody, but something don't come for nothing. Power cost longevity, tunes cost warranties, and fast shit will ALWAYS eventually break. Simple as that. Tune within reason and don't push to hard and probably no problems. But tune at all in anyway on later model vehicles and something happens... SOL

Posted

Hey Karl...

I was thinking the same thing... :lol:

This thread is OLD....

 

I still haven't BROKE anything after getting the BlackBear tune... :)

Posted

It is old... and the topic still relevant. You breaking anything or not is not the issue. Tunes voiding warranties is the topic, and they do. They will know and that is that. Most of you guys are ignorant, unfollowing this post and probably leaving this forum for good.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I would pay to see any of you "spare module" smartasses to swap the ECM/TCM in any '10+ gm truck in 5min in your garages. Hell, i'll even buy the frosty beverage of your choice that seems to be a necessary step!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 545 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...