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I have not posted on this Forum in quite a while but I can share a couple things I have experienced with the 5.3L and 6.2L engines. I have fixed about 10 of these now. I have deleted the AFM twice with good results. On all the others I went back to the OEM design with a fully functioning AFM system. All so far have come out perfect. All have had good oil pressure after the repair even though several had zero or near zero oil pressure before the repairs. I have done years between 2003 and 2011 with mileage between 135,000 and 210,000 miles. I use the Melling High Volume pump. I like 60 PSI running hot on the road. The engine is fine with only 40 PSI hot but I shoot for 60, personal choice. I also like more than 30 at hot idle. Hot idle oil pressure will be lower depending on how loose your Main and Rod bearings are and how loose your cam bearings are. Internal oil leaks kill oil pressure. I always use the GM AFM manifold, I have been afraid to try any of the other brands due to the amount of labor involved if one does not work as expected. I won't say any of the other brands are good or bad, unless I see several people have used them for years and trust them I stay with OEM. The AFM manifold itself can be a major oil leak internally and offer low top end oil pressure. I don't know what brand you installed or if you just used your old one in your repair. For the new lifters I trust Sealed Power, which I believe are made by Top Line who purchased the Sealed Power / Johnson Hylift Lifter plant and has it operating again in Michigan. I think Melling and a couple other companies also sell the HyLift lifters, both the standard and AFM version. Sealed Power used to own Johnson Lifters, Johnson used the trade name HyLift, Top Line purchased that plant so any of these names are the same lifter. I have had 100% good luck so far with these. Again with this much labor, pulling both heads, why risk using a lower priced part. I see the Ebay and Amazon knock off parts for 1/2 this price but those are buyer beware parts in my opinion. If you see a brand offering these AFM lifers at 1/2 price you should be cautious. Good lifters cost more. The secondary oil relief valve in the oil pan can be a major leak also, I always replace that valve and the O'ring on the oil pump. Check the screen in the oil pump to make sure it is not blocked. Some Yahoo's turn wrenches and use excess silicon to seal surfaces. That excess can end up in your oil pump screen and block flow. I like the trick of using extra oil as a test to see if the oil pump Oring has failed. When I eliminate the AFM system, I remove the secondary oil relief valve and plug it. This secondary valve is in there to limit your oil pressure. I was told if oil pressure in AFM engines exceeds 70 PSI the oil pressure can cause the AFM lifters to activate so the extra pressure relief was added to AFM engines. On cold start oil is thick and oil pressure will spike well above your standard pressure relief spring setting in the oil pump. With this said, I would not install a High Pressure Spring or pump into a AFM engine. I have added boosters to the factory spring to add a "little more than factory stock oil pressure but again, my goal is 60 PSI Hot when above say 1,500 RPM and when doing AFM repairs I always keep the AFM secondary relief valve in the pan but I do install a new one. Most of these trucks have an oil leak somewhere around the oil pan or the oil cooler lines or cover so I always pull the pan and see all these parts before starting the truck with the new lifters and AFM system. I also use Fel-Pro gaskets, this is not an advertisement, just stating what has worked with zero failures. IF your internal leaks are minor the high volume pump will supply enough flow to keep your oil pressure higher and mask the leaks. I hope something here helps you fix yours. PS: When looking for an internal loss of oil pressure we sometimes resort to pulling the oil pan, then hook up what we call an oil pig, real name is an engine Pre Oiler, these hold 5 quarts of oil and you hook up your air hose to pressurize the system, The Pig attaches to your Oil sender location. I use 40 PSI of air to move the oil, more air will push the oil in too fast and cause problems. The Oil pig will push 5 quarts into your engine in about 1 minute so you have to work fast to see where your oil is leaking, it makes one hell of a mess but in odd cases it does show the exact location of your leak. A large tub under the engine will catch most everything. Drips and even fast drips are normal from your engine bearings when pressurized. If you find a stream of oil you found a major leak. Usually we would find it was in the Cam bearings or sometimes you found one of the oil gallery plugs was flat missing in that engine. This test was only used when like yours, the problem would not show itself so you could repair it. On the AFM engines if the AFM manifold could be your leak. I would have to study the layout of the oil drains and think this out. The oil would end up in the lifter valley and drain down on the camshaft lobes. Would be hard to identify location when looking up from down below. In the old small blocks this test would clearly show a cam bearing leak but in the AFM engines the leak could be the afm manifold dripping down on the cam.

Took her out sled riding today. BTW does anyone have a set of stock wheels for the Centennial Silverado they want to sell?

Looks like valve cover or even oil pressure sensor. My rear main on my 2002 5.3 was leaking and the starter was dry.

^^^ The squeaky wheel gets the grease comes to mind.^^^ I am happy to see restrictions eased but I'm more skeptical of the loosening than I was of their introduction. I am confident, or at least hopeful, that lessons learned will not be in vain. We are continuing with our plans to travel. I laughed when we started to strategize how we'll deal with destinations that don't have restrictions! We had a man come to wash the exterior of our house yesterday. He had no mask or didn't speak of Covid protocols upon his arrival. My wife and I met him outside where we could minimize contact to introduce ourselves and explain our needs. At one point, I inadvertently moved closer to him and he stepped backwards! This was a great example how we can carry on and still be respectful to each other.

Went to the dump and happened to get this view while there of Mt Rainier

No judgement from me, but why? I don't get it. I hate noise. I don't mind the exhaust noise, but nothing more.

Upon my search I stumbled across a 2010 Silverado 5.3 w only 36000 miles for about half the price. Has me debating. Technology advances aside could I expect this to be equally reliable as the 15 Silverado 5.3 with 33k I was originally looking at?

Took the new ride for my first real cruise. Put on about 80 miles. Night and day difference my hard edged 2018 with a 10.5" lift and 38's. Well duh. I'm on the fence with the lane departure. It seems to keep you out of the ditch but not crossing over into oncoming traffic. Maybe it's because the center line was mostly rumble strip not much yellow paint stripe and the shoulder has a solid white line. Adaptive cruise is a cool option it actually works like they say. The premium Bose caught me off guard. I was expecting it to sound blah . It rocks. Sounds better than the Kicker setup in my 18. Rides nice. Power is spot on. The eight speed is butter smooth. I'll give more feedback as I get more seat time. Can't wait until it warms up so I can put a luster on it and ceramic coating.

I have worked on a variety of years and engines, can't say what pump part number I used in each without going back and looking it up. I chose the high volume option in each, if I did not go with high volume I would keep my stock pump, an oil pump is the most lubricated part inside your engine so they wear very little. Sometimes the relief spring/piston gets stuck but that can be cleaned out and fixed. Each of the trucks I repaired came to me broken, I had no control over past maintenance. My own Yukon has had regular service by me and runs well so far at 125,000 miles. In each case so far I have been able to fix the engines without overhaul of the long block. In only one case did I find a dropped valve seat in a 6.0L, 2009 year model. They are really good engines normally. FYI: The AFM system will not activate if oil pressure is below 27 pounds I believe, so there is a minimum requirement and a maximum limit with AFM lifters. When the AFM lifters stick, the push rod and rocker arm is left loose in the engine with about 3/8" slack so with the lifter still going up and down bouncing these components I could see a push rod getting bent or a rocker arm breaking but I have yet to see that. Maybe I have been lucky so far. The best advice, maintain them, if they break, park them and fix them before more damage is done.

I don't think it's the tranny, so far as I know trannys don't exhibit those kinds of symptoms, what you describe IMHO is an engine symptom. There are a lot of could be's; ignition coil, injectors, spark plug wires, spark plugs, etc. Post more info. If you haven't replaced the plugs and wires and don't know when they were last changed I'd start there. Get a spark tester and see if all the coils are firing. Remember, a plug that doesn't fire doesn't mean the plug is so bad it can't fire, it could be the wire, test the plug with another wire that's known to be good. If the plug still doesn't fire you can suspect the coil, the wiring between the coil and the computer...etc.

I got no stinkin' trash in my brake lines! Like EVERY BODY ELSE I bleed my brake system every 2 years....Yeah right. How is the rubber brake line pinched off without damage? What about a in line valve in the hard brake line to stop back flow? Such a line would have to be safetied (wire) open of course. It would prolly be illegal in a commercial vehicle....

I live in NJ and also experienced pretty much the same issues. I also have a 2015 I did google the symptoms and found this is an ongoing electrical issue. I still occasionally have a problem with the radio, blinker, phone problem. It is a “low voltage” problem most likely with the computer and nothing else like a batters or alternator. I would just shut it down and let it set for a few minutes. Everything would return to normal operation.

I hear ya 5X5! We recommended annual analysis to catch wayward problems. Engine oil isn’t going to fix all issues but if shellac and sludge builds from fuel and oil issues,….a good fuel ,good oil can slow the development. Fram media is exceptional and the lower cost versions can work fine if they aren’t also being loaded with deposits. When I did oil analysis for consumers I always asked if this doesn’t find and warn of problems to solve them why do it!

Is oil testing something that you believe should be done on a regular basis? If it could catch issues like this early, than I am on board with doing it. I am admitting that I have never thought of oil analysis as a benefit worth the cost, but the situation I am in is a different creature for me. The truck I am dealing with wasn't bought new by me, but I knew the original owner and it was always serviced on time and with good synthetic oil. Personally, I have never had this type of issue with a 5.3 before this one, but this is my first AFM engine. I always changed oil around 3-5K miles and never had an issue. I sold my old 2003 Yukon to a friend around 250K and it never had a problem. That particular vehicle ran whatever oil was cheap and always ran Fram cheap filters. (I am NOT saying that is the right move, but it was what I did when I was younger and poorer). From the day it was new, I used tech 2000 (I think that was what it was called) from Walmart. My buddy is still driving it today with over 300K. I suppose the reason I resisted oil analysis was because I was never in a situation where I thought it would benefit me...but that might not of been the correct outlook to have.

Have the universal joints been checked?

All this very interesting. In the real world of the busy working person who usually doesn’t do their own oil changes. Let alone the repairs. Their going to go by the manual maintenance. Oil changes with synthetics usually are north of 100$ especially when you change some other suggested maintenance items. Don’t forget to rotate those tires. Now tell them in order to make it 100K miles you need to double that or even triple the maintenance. All that after dropping 50K on their ride. If they were smart enough to buy extended warranty. There’re going to go by the book. Once they calculate all the extra time and money to make their ride last past the warranty. They’ll say screw it and probably change brands. If they didn’t buy extended warranty and the engine fails they’d probably stuff a salvage yard engine in. Probably from a shop that doesn’t bother to report to car check and trade it in.

Just to give you a heads up, I’ve been waiting on the Boost Auto mirrors since April 2021. It might be awhile until they are produced.

It’s been 4 long months since the last wash….

Where did you connect the base knob too.

In the interest of full disclosure, I've mostly stopped calculating the fuel mileage on the truck (because even the hand calculation isn't 100% for a multitude of factors), but when I did, the Onstar/dash display was within 0.5 +/- of the calculation. When I bought the truck 25k miles ago, the lifetime mileage was 30.5 mpg. It has decreased considerably during my ownership. Considering the previous owner put on nearly 30k miles a year, that's no suprise. I've owned both '16 and '17 versions of this chassis, and my '16 is a far and away better version of the truck; the '17 was a giant sack of garbage. They couldn't even make both sides of the bed the same length, they were off by 1/4" resulting in tailgate closure issues (among other things, like the headlight falling out on the way to FL at only 4k miles).

159,000 Mile Services 2/13/2022 DIZZY 2015 GMC Terrain Ecotec 2.4-I4 AWD 6 speed 159,065 actual 1,734 miles this OCI 6 ounces make up oil .071% of fuel 9,245 miles 142% of spec 5 Quarts Valvoline 5W40 Euro 1 Purolator Pure One filter PL15436.

3 is head lamp left, will send power to the AVS light all the time.

This is the first truck I did a seven year loan. Could have got 0.0% financing if I went with a four year loan but the payment would have been around $1100 a month. That's my house payment. Sad situation.

Commands attention Now this would get my attention:

Hey everyone! I just took my 21 Sierra in for the “service safety restraint system” message that was popping up on my display, after being in the shop for two days the tech found (by technician bulletins) that one of my airbag sensors where faulty and every time I hit a larger enough bump, the pin inside the sensor would move causing the service message to pop up. When I get my truck back next week I’ll relay the exact info of what it was. Thanks

So, you are saying this might not be a good idea to copy for my truck?

Lol at the people in here who feel the need to tell the OP how they, not the OP, but how THEY have no need for navigation because they use some cheap hack phone app that suits them just fine! Seriously guys, nobody freaking cares what YOU feel is ok, and how YOU feel this phone app is good enough, when this guy paid for the navigation add on that the dealer over wrote with a software update. Good grief with people who think like this!

I have a Banks iDash that shows what gear I'm in. I was not referring to the gear selector being in 'L' like the person above said. I always just leave it in 'D'.

They look great i will give you that and perform great. But IMO they are very loud for an AT tire. My brothers 2021 AT4 at 8k miles is super loud, so much so he is changing them out to TOYOs . . But that's just me/my opinion and everyone's noise levels are different.

God imagine doing something as lame as this for a job lmfao Just keep writing your own paychecks, so glad you boys are pulling over some dude with 3 grille lights instead of actually serving your community. Edit: Don't get me wrong extra lights all over are ghey and you don't really need them tbh but still. Don't get your rocks off too hard over some illegal lighting lmfao HOV lane infractions I can understand that though that is acceptable.

Dealers have been instructed to replace the lifters on affected vehicles before they can sell them. I guarantee you thats why all these trucks have been sitting. Not waiting on chips, they're waiting on lifter stock to hit the dealers.

Here is mine with recommended settings, also the rear shocks and 2in block from RC. Same set up as Trail Boss. Self install was super easy and saves money if you are able to do yourself. Mine is level and the ride quality is night and day difference! I installed some Kenda Klever AT2s.

Sorry. Bought a Denali for the smooth and somewhat quite ride.

Early morning fog

My new 2022 Silverado 1500 LTD LT. I pick it up today after work!

2021 Satin Steel Metallic AT4, 6.2L 20x9 +19 offset Fuel Vector Wheels 275/60R20 Michelin Defender LTX M/S CarbonPro Black Emblems (have black illuminated emblem and black rear emblem now) Black Factory Exhaust Tips OEM High Clearance Off Road Running Boards S&B CAI, Pulsar LT, 1300W Infiniti/JL Audio Sound System Waiting for my headache rack and Borla Black Chrome Touring Exhaust to come in Love the street friendly but still aggressive look that the wheels/tires create.

This PDF has pretty good instructions for getting it all installed. Good luck. 2020 Silverado Dash Cam.pdf

when the Government doesn't want you to exceed you alotted miles driven per week, onstar will be there to shut your ****** down Really? Tin foil hat syndrome.

My 2012 Silverado 1500 stutters/rumbles/vibrates when cruising at any speed 50 or under, sometimes doing 75 as well. When I accerlate it'll stop. Owner had tranny redone a little over a year ago and I just got the torque converter replaced. Any help?