When I had mine in to replace the HPFP I told the service writer this condition but it only happens either backing down a steep boat ramp, or idling on a hill. The pedal gets rock hard. Not an issue when climbing the hill in drive but when you're backing a boat down, hell yea, that could be disastrous. He said they'd fix it. Went back for an alignment 2 weeks later and still had the same problem. The service writer told me that the hill assist is whats causing the hard brake pedal. Basically brushed it off. Does my issue sound like whats going on with the recall?
I did the same thing. Ran 2 bottles in 2 tank refills. Also ran shell Vpower thinking it might be a fuel problem; cuz it only happened when it was hot outside (85+). It came back a couple weeks later. Decided to trust the dealer's diagnosis and pay up $1300 for a hpfp and it's been good ever since. Still gets a little rough on idle when its really hot and idling for a couple minutes but no check engine light or driveability issues.
That was my thought but i had such crappy leverage from the ground i dont think it would have mattered. I am going to try and use a lift at my buddy's dealer and see if we can get it out. What a pain in the ass. I was hoping someone had dealt with that and could share what worked for them.
Yes Im sorry. I meant the differential drop kit. I would get pics but its all back together with the stock bolts which is scary because there's not much thread left to grab on the bolts and nuts after putting in the 1/2" spacers. Supreme said you have to press the bolts out of the passenger side of the differential bracket. They appear to be pressed into a rubber bushing of some type but when you take off the nut and try pushing the bolt upward and out, the differential bracket just flexes. Either not many people are doing the differential drop; they're doing it a different way; or they have no issues getting those bolts out.
All the dif drop kits for these trucks have to very similar. There's only 4 bolts you're dealing with.
I bought the supreme suspension kit. How the hell do you get those passenger bolts out of the differential bracket? The 1 bolt is so wedged between the steering assist you can barely get the nut off. Plus the bracket flexes so when you push up on the bolts you get almost zero leverage. Plus Im doing this on the ground. Help please if you have experience with this.
I usually do. But yes lesson learned. The new condenser doesnt have that thermal tape so I guess fwiw I'll put a piece where the above pic shows. Man this truck has been a money pit since I bought. Last month it was the high pressure fuel pump leaking. That was $1300!
Supreme suspensions dif drop kit is confusing. For the Z71 model they sent me 6 bolts; 4 about 3" and 2 about 4" or so with 2 lock nuts. After reading the reviews on amazon it seems they kept sending bolts that were too short. So I called supreme and he said use the longer bolts on the passenger side. The 3" bolts and spacers fit where the dif bolts to the bracket. The passenger side is blocked by the electronic steering assist (i believe thats what it is). So your easier option is to put the spacers between the bracket and frame, not the dif and bracket like on the drivers side. Does this seem weird? So one side I put spacers between the dif and bracket and the other side between the bracket and frame?
Thought I had a leak so I bought a kit that has the recharge with the UV dye in it. Hooked up the kit, went to recharge it and it said full. Was skeptical but when i take it off the schrader valve you hear the pressure push out. Fire up the truck, press the ac button just to make sure i hear the compressor engaging an it does. Blower motor blows hard but its still warm air. Could it be the blend doors? Or motors that connect them? What else?
I just bought a supreme suspensions 2.5" front and 2" rear. The kit comes with differential drop kit components. Supreme's website says 2.5" + may require the differential drop kit. At 2.25" lift i would think it should be ok, but if you're doing higher speed in 4wd and use it a lot I would guess that it will prematurely wear those joints out because of the increased angle.
Just bought a 2.5" front and 2" rear lift kit by supreme suspensions. On the site I bought it (American Trucks) it doesn't say anything about a differential drop kit or needing one. On supreme's site, they offer the lift kit with the differential drop kit, and also without the drop kit. The lift kit without the differential drop kit says 2.5"+ 4WD MODELS MAY REQUIRE A DIFFERENTIAL DROP KIT(A1987). Soooooooo do I need this kit or not? I suppose it's better to align the differential as close to the original design as possible to avoid premature wear or if Im going to be doing 50 mph in 4wd. I rarely see anyone discussing the differential drop kit on a 2.5" lift up front.
Exact same issues here just started for me. Same codes and everything. I started a thread a couple days ago on this. Dealer diagnosed is potentially as a PIP5590A and points to the high pressure fuel pump. That is a $1250 fix though and they didn't feel 100% confident about it. Mine seems to happen when the truck is idling in hot weather. Hard shifts are because the truck is going into fault mode. Everyone I talk to is saying its more likely the injectors. After seeing that other poster say he got the injectors cleaned and it seems to be fine I am on the verge of doing that also. Truck has 65k on it and its a 2014 5.3
Awesome thank you for that. Since the condition (stumbling, rough idle, and engine light) seems to come and go, is my best bet to get it to the dealer while its happening? Then they should be able to confirm or at least isolate the cause and repair it.
Forgot to mention the dealer did check the crankcase and found no fuel
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