Jump to content

Mobile One Oil Question

smiledr996s

Recommended Posts

smiledr996s Enthusiast

smiledr996s

Posted
Posted

I recently purchase a 2500hd 6.0 w/ 70k miles. I have no history of service. I know the truck was used hard,and not sure it was properly service w/ oil changed. I want to start running Mobile One. It calls for 5w-30, but wondering if I should use the Highmilage formula and move up to 10w-30??

 

Thanks for any suggesstions.

Steve

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

The 10-30 and 5-30 should be the same viscosity at operating temperature. At startup, the cold oil will be much thicker than ideal with both. The 5-30 will be better at start/prior to warmup operation. If you're looking for a thicker oil at normal operating temperature, the latter number has to go up. I'd go with the book recommended range.

clemsonblozz Enthusiast

clemsonblozz

Posted
Posted
The 10-30 and 5-30 should be the same viscosity at operating temperature. At startup, the cold oil will be much thicker than ideal with both. The 5-30 will be better at start/prior to warmup operation. If you're looking for a thicker oil at normal operating temperature, the latter number has to go up. I'd go with the book recommended range.

 

 

here in the warm south,, I used 15w-40 premium blue forever in my 5.3.. It got rid of that friggin "after it sits a couple of days" lifter chatter.. I wouldn't advise using oil that thick in the colder climates..

smiledr996s Enthusiast

smiledr996s

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks,

 

I will stick w/ the 5w-30. I was just concerned that I might have some engine wear from poor maintence, and a slightly thicker oil might give a bit more protection. Also since I plan to use mostly to haul a car trailer I thought a bit thicker might help here as well.

 

Thanks for the responces.

 

Steve

dlstewart01 Senior Enthusiast

dlstewart01

Posted
Posted

Check oil viscosity charts. API allowes a range in viscosity from the manufacturers so there are thicker and thinner 5 wrights and the same with 30 weights.

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index.php?op...8&Itemid=55

 

 

.Home Viscosity Charts

Viscosity Charts

 

VISCOSITY @ 100deg C

VISCOSITY @ 40deg C

 

MOTOR OILS, HYDRAULIC OILS

ISO GRADE

 

SAE GRADE RANGE (cST) ISO GRADE RANGE (cST)

5

3.80-*

32

28.8-35.2

 

10 4.10-* 46 41.4-50.6

20 5.60-9.29 68 61.2-74.8

30 9.30-12.49 100 90.0-110

40 12.50-16.29 150 135-165

50 16.30-21.89 220 198-242

60 21.90-26.09 320 288-352

80 7.0-11.00 460 414-506

90 13.50-23.99 680 612-748

140 24.00-40.99 1000 900-1100

250 41.00-UP 1500 1350-1650

 

Viscosities can be related horizontally only

Viscosities based on 96 VI single grade oils.

ISO are specified at 40 deg C

AGMA are specified at 40 deg C

SAE 75w, 80w, 85, 5w, & 10w

specified at low temperature.

Equivalent viscosities for 100 & 210 deg F are shown

SAE 90 to 250 and 20 to 50 specified at 100 deg C.

 

ISO VISCOSITY CLASSIFICATION SYSTEM

 

Many petroleum products are graded according to the ISO Viscosity Classification System, approved by the international standards organization (ISO). Each ISO viscosity grade number corresponds to the mid-point of a viscosity range expressed in centistokes(cSt) at 40 deg C. For example, a lubricant with an ISO grade of 32 has a viscosity within the range of 28.8-35.2, the midpoint of which is 32.

 

Rule of Thumb: The comparable ISO grade of a given product whose viscosity in SUS at 100 deg F is known can be determined by using the following conversion formula:

 

 

SUS @ 100 deg F/5=cSt @ 40 deg C.

 

cst= 0.226xSUS-(195/SUS)

 

 

 

 

.

Daryl LBZ Senior Enthusiast

Daryl LBZ

Posted
Posted

I use Mobil 1 5W30 and Mobil 1 Filter on my truck. It's good stuff, and the filter is supposed to be the best one out there. If you want to help the engine out as far as wear is concerned I would use Lucas Oil Treatment along with your oil. The stuff works great. Ive seen it stop and slow oil leaks, and it helps out ALOT with engine noises like tapping, and lifter noise.

Shatterz Enthusiast

Shatterz

Posted
Posted
I recently purchase a 2500hd 6.0 w/ 70k miles. I have no history of service. I know the truck was used hard,and not sure it was properly service w/ oil changed. I want to start running Mobile One. It calls for 5w-30, but wondering if I should use the Highmilage formula and move up to 10w-30??

 

Thanks for any suggesstions.

Steve

 

I wouldn't rack your brain too much about what to use. Mobil 1 is a good oil, run the regular Mobil 1 5W-30 and good quality filter (this makes more of a difference than anything). If you are not burning any oil and/ or hear feel anything that indicates a damaged/worn motor, you should be good to go along with a good pm program of changing all other fluids since you don't have service records. Just my .02.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Fluid Change Questions

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I know when I was looking around last year to see if someone handled Amsoil gear oil to buy at the retail level which of course means full price. I found an independent shop that works a lot on GM/Duramax pickups and they did not bring in the 75W-85 as they just stuck to the 75W-90 for the front and rear as a standard practice for the HD trucks which makes sense anyway for the higher hp/torque diesel and pulling heavy loads in four wheel drive. I haven't changed my diff oils yet but still plan on using the 75W-85 for the front diff as I highly doubt I will be beating on the truck and figured for my use type the bit thinner oil would be to my benefit for the winter for that slightly less drag. Very different weather here all winter vs northern Washington near the coast, that's for sure. 
    • Chuck FB
      Oil Consumption

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Ok that confirms the extra quart theme they are still going with which must mean they have noted some initial use more so then some engines and probably the bigger factor in all of this probably isn't the engine so much as its the insane distance or OLM that lulls a lot of the driving public into driving their new vehicle off the lot and not even doing one short interval oil change because the manufacturer doesn't say different and if the dealer follows that logic as well. Selling the rarely needing to be serviced concept seems to go over well with the public that wants to get away with as little as possible for dollars spent on the vehicles maintenance and I bet there are 3.0 engines just like other vehicles out there that never have their oil checked by the owner which goes back to why they probably felt the need to add that extra quart to avoid a costly theme.    Speaking of cutting filters open, it was probably over two years ago now that a youtuber who buys vehicles to do longer term reviews and pulls a fifth wheel through the mountains of Colorado on summer trips and that becomes part of the testing. Anyway he had a GM HD with the 6.6 gas and a Ford 250 with the 7.3 gas at the same time and of no surprise the Ford had more power etc but somewhere along the way in the few thousand miles he put on the truck, he changed the oil and was seeing glitter and cut open the filter and yeah, things were not looking spectacular. The truck about that time or soon after seemed down on power compared to what it had been and then threw some engine code, I expect the cam/lifters were failing and so he brought the truck back to the dealer and made some deal to get out of it as he knew it would sit for months waiting on a new engine as they were so backlogged at the time. He kept the GM for some time after that using it exclusively until he sold it after buying his next vehicle to do a review on. Definitely the filter can tell a story when things are starting to go sideways, but it would be a sickening feeling to cut it open and be faced with an ugly mess like that and be running a magnet through the pleats and the oil on the dirty side of the filter and see all the fines sticking to the magnet.    The dealer may have some ideas based on experience as to where that coolant smell is coming from, I would imagine if they can't find it but its smelling they would put dye in it to they could give it a run cycle and use the black light to see where it pops up, if its a hose connection, water pump, rad or even a head gasket etc. 
    • riddler
      Torsion adjustment

      By riddler · Posted

      Good looking truck, suspensionmaxx looks like a solid option
    • riddler
      Torsion adjustment

      By riddler · Posted

      Thanks for the info, im considering a leveling kit or 4" lift kit.
    • davester
      frustrating P0446 code

      By davester · Posted

      charm.li (website) has the vehicle-specific diagnostic procedure for that code, you can use to find what the cause of it is.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...