Jump to content

Floor Jack Failure And New Replacement


Recommended Posts

Posted

Good idea and nice welds!

 

But its not safe. Most likely it will break at the welds and the orginial jack side (your side looks stronger).

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Even though I bought the new jack for the truck, I ordered the rebuild kit from Larin for $10. I will report back on how the rebuild goes and what the pump looks like (quality, condition, etc). I can always use this jack on my wife's car.

 

I also found a place online that has 100% made-in-USA jacks and even rebuilds other jacks:

 

http://www.phjjacks.com/merchant/merchant....gory_Code=PHJFJ

 

Their 3-ton jacks are under $200. they also sell reconditioned Hein-Warner and OTC stuff as well.

 

I was shocked to find out that all Craftsman and Snap-On jacks are now made in China!!! My father's Sears jack from the late 60's (made in USA) is still going strong!

 

The saying is true.......they don't make 'em like they used to......

Posted

I bought one at autozone and it failed the first time I used it. Went to jack up my 03 to rotate tires and it basically folded over on itself:

 

DSCF0010-1.jpg

DSCF0009-1.jpg

DSCF0008-1.jpg

 

I didn't realize how cheesy and thin the metal was when I bought it but regardless this is why I stopped buying tools made in china.

Posted
I bought one at autozone and it failed the first time I used it. Went to jack up my 03 to rotate tires and it basically folded over on itself:

 

I didn't realize how cheesy and thin the metal was when I bought it but regardless this is why I stopped buying tools made in china.

Damn, that is scary! What brand was the jack and how many tons was it rated for? I wish it was easy to buy American, but these days it seems American-made stuff is hard to find: http://www.stillmadeinusa.com/tools.html

Posted

It was some no-name brand and if memory serves the box said it was a 5000 pound jack. It was a time when I was short on money and I didn't really expect the jack to be an excellent tool, but I thought I'd at least be able to use it! :lol:

  • 3 years later...
Posted

I know this is an old thread, but my AC-Delco floor jack may be in need of replacement. I tried to use it tonight and it'll lift, but won't release. Has anyone bought any jacks recently that they'd recommend? I have a number of solid stands, but I need to have a good jack to get setup.

Posted

Let me throw in my experience to hopefully reset those saying "I never had a problem". I had a 3 ton fairly expensive floor jack for at least 10 years and never had one problem with it. Fortunately for me, my dad instilled in me to never even stick my body or head under the vehicle to set the jack stands.

 

I jacked up my 98 K1500 at one corner. Turned around to get the jack stand and heard a big bang and the floor jack shot past me.

 

Later I disassembled the jack and found the cylinder had split down the length causing the jack to drop instantly.

 

Another time I had a metal ramp just collapse when I drove up it.

 

I always use multiple jack stands. Never trust your life to just one support device and don't count the jack as even one.

Posted

Honestly, there are virtually no good jack manufacturers left anymore. As far as I am aware, no jacks available today are made in the U.S.A. It might be assembled in the U.S.A, but with global parts.

 

I have an OTC jack that I use. It is as heavy duty as I could find in today's market, from a reputable name.

http://www.otctools.com/products/two-speed-3-12-ton-service-jack

 

Honestly, I am more comfortable with bottle jacks or air bag jacks than the hydraulic stuff on the market today. Consumers did this to themselves. People have always complained that they want cheaper and cheaper prices on goods. Well, the goods themselves are going to go down in quality when you want a cheaper price. So, the population itself is to blame for all of the cheap junk out there.

 

As always, do your research, spend the big dollars if it's needed, but buy QUALITY.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have an old 2 stage Walker Jack from the 60's that was used at a Chevron Service station during the 60'-80's I rebuilt it and works a helluva lot better than this Crap that's made today. The thing about today's tools is they are throw away and basically not serviceable.

 

RT

Posted

Search aff 200t (American Forge and Foundry).

Jack is red with metal wheels.

Napa has the same jack, blue with nylon wheels.

The local America's tire, uses this jack.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,920
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Frank V
    Newest Member
    Frank V
    Joined
  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,242 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...