Jump to content

Bump Stop Removal

dave_benn

Recommended Posts

dave_benn Enthusiast

dave_benn

Posted
Posted

I bought the Firestone ride-rite airbags for my 2010 Sierra, and the directions say to remove the bump stops. I went under the truck to remove them and to my surprise the head of the bolt is inside the bump stop, and the nut is part of the frame. Has anyone got a clue as to what size it is to get the bolt out. I tried a 9/16, 1/2 and the 5/8 is so tight getting in that im afraid if it comes off the socket i wont get it out. Thanks in advance.

dave_benn Enthusiast

dave_benn

Posted
  • Author
Posted
pretty sure its a 10mm

You are correct, I don't know why i didn't try that before. By the way anyone looking for airbags, firestone ride-rite are a straight forward install. Ill let you know how they ride tomorrow.

nickvrebel Senior Enthusiast

nickvrebel

Posted
Posted

good deal, I was considering a set of those. here's a hint: everything on your truck is metric except inside parts of the rear axle

slapshot Enthusiast

slapshot

Posted
Posted

The Firestone airbags are great. I didn't notice any difference in the ride. The truck tows great and my boat (24' & around 5000 lbs) doesn't squat the rear end at all now. I run the bags at 3-4 psi all the time.

dave_benn Enthusiast

dave_benn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I first filled up the bags to 30 psi, raised the truck about 3 inches. They fill fast, but i dropped them down to 20 psi and that was way to much for driving around with. The back end was way to bouncy. I let the air down to 10 psi and ill see how that does today. I think running them at 3-4 psi is too little. The factory says no less than 5 psi, don't know if that would ruin yours or not.

  • 10 months later...
jdell Enthusiast

jdell

Posted
Posted

Where do people run the air lines for this set up? Out the back? Did you drill a hole for the lines? I am getting ready to install and was looking for tips or advice.

Thanks

gmtech4 Senior Enthusiast

gmtech4

Posted
Posted

what does the instructions say ????

 

you have to add a bracket or drill holes in the bumper to access the air valves ,its not to complicated ,dont worry to much about it

jdell Enthusiast

jdell

Posted
Posted

Thanks. I will have to take a look at the lower license plate bolt holes. that sounds like a good place.

sonjaab Senior Enthusiast

sonjaab

Posted
Posted

I wouldn't be drilling any holes in the tinfoil bumper pieces to insert the air

fill valves. I can see the tinfoil peeling off or worse! At $210 bucks a side

to boot for the bumper sides....................

 

I would fab up a piece of metal stock, drill holes for the air fill valves,

and mount under the rear bumper or where you could have easy access.

nbscanuck Enthusiast

nbscanuck

Posted
Posted

I drilled in on either side of the lisence plate. Its plastic.

rheal91 Enthusiast

rheal91

Posted
Posted

will just add... try to get a 2 to 1 connector so you dont have to fill both bags one at a time and try to get the psi the same. A 2 to 1 will have the bags perfectly equal and no messing around with back and forth with the air hose and pressure gauge.

Z71-Driving-Spartan Enthusiast

Z71-Driving-Spartan

Posted
Posted

Here you go for us picture people

 

DSCF9222.jpg

 

My cousin did his this way, except he used the top holes and used it to mount the tag. Recently he upgraded and got the compressor upgrade. That is a really nice setup, he can air up/down without having to get out of the driver seat. It will also air each side up independently so no matter how the truck is sitting or is loaded it balances out the load. The compressor fit perfectly on what looks like a tray for a second battery.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • smooth68
      Alternate wiring for Kicker sub with Bose system. (DO THIS)

      By smooth68 · Posted

      I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...