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Best Way To Replace Front Brake Pads On '07 Sierra


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Posted

I'm getting ready to replace the front brake pads on my '07 Sierra 1500 new body style. I'm just wondering what the best way to do this is??? i ready suck some of the brake fluid out of the fluid tank, i've read bleed them off.....Any recommendations??? Any hardware i should replace?

 

thanks,

Chris

Posted
I'm getting ready to replace the front brake pads on my '07 Sierra 1500 new body style. I'm just wondering what the best way to do this is??? i ready suck some of the brake fluid out of the fluid tank, i've read bleed them off.....Any recommendations??? Any hardware i should replace?

 

thanks,

Chris

I done mine about a week ago, it was super easy. First thing i did was take the top off the brake fluid reservoir ( to allow the fluid to expand) then remove the two bolts that hold the caliper on and pop the old pads out, then take a pair of big channel lock plyers and push the piston back into the caliper to allow room for the new pads, put the new pads on and put the caliper back on. Easy as that I did both sides in 30 minutes. It may not be the technical correct way but this is the way ive always changed brakes. no bleeding required. Dont forget to put the top back on the reservoir back on.
Posted
I'm getting ready to replace the front brake pads on my '07 Sierra 1500 new body style. I'm just wondering what the best way to do this is??? i ready suck some of the brake fluid out of the fluid tank, i've read bleed them off.....Any recommendations??? Any hardware i should replace?

 

thanks,

Chris

I done mine about a week ago, it was super easy. First thing i did was take the top off the brake fluid reservoir ( to allow the fluid to expand) then remove the two bolts that hold the caliper on and pop the old pads out, then take a pair of big channel lock plyers and push the piston back into the caliper to allow room for the new pads, put the new pads on and put the caliper back on. Easy as that I did both sides in 30 minutes. It may not be the technical correct way but this is the way ive always changed brakes. no bleeding required. Dont forget to put the top back on the reservoir back on.

 

 

 

did you have to take some of the fluid out of the fluid tank before you pushed the caliper back?

Posted

I'd crack the bleed screw while you're compressing the piston. You don't push crap back towards the MC and ABS

Posted

The brakes are super easy. I have done pads and rotors on my new body Silverado. All I did was remove the cap on the reservoir. No fluid spilled over when I compressed the pistons.

Posted

Darral - Thanks for that TIP - don't push bad fluid back

Posted

is it worth getting the new hardware kit? does it just have the steel retainer clips (4) 2 on each side?

Posted

Just like "thisbudsforyou" said.

 

New hardware was included with mine. One thing to note, listen to az03silverado. Mine made a metal on metal sound when applying the brakes. It was just the metal clips that hold the pads in place. I thought it was the wear indicators and the pads needed to be replaced. I could have got away with just lubing the clips, but I had already bought replacement pads. I put synthetic brake lube on the new clips.

Posted

If you have not added any fluid into the reservoir while you have had the truck. Then the same amount should still be in there since it was new. When you push the fluid back in it should be at the full line and not over flow. So there should be no need to drain any before you start.

Posted
If you have not added any fluid into the reservoir while you have had the truck. Then the same amount should still be in there since it was new. When you push the fluid back in it should be at the full line and not over flow. So there should be no need to drain any before you start.

 

The reason you bleed some out is like txab said, you don't want to push contaminated fluid thats in the caliper back in the ABS system.

Posted
If you have not added any fluid into the reservoir while you have had the truck. Then the same amount should still be in there since it was new. When you push the fluid back in it should be at the full line and not over flow. So there should be no need to drain any before you start.

 

The reason you bleed some out is like txab said, you don't want to push contaminated fluid thats in the caliper back in the ABS system.

 

If the system is sealed, there is no more contamination in the fluid than the rest of the system has - but - I'd bet the heat buildup in the calipers has broken the fluid down a bit.

 

I'm with you guys. Bleed it out of the calipers rather than push it back in the system. You can bleed the system before installing new pads which probably makes it easier. Anybody that has ever done brakes will have no problem replacing GM truck pads.

Posted

True. I agree with you. I have been doing it the way thisbudsforyou has been for as long as I can remember. same with my step dad who is a mechanic and my shop teacher taught me. I guess I have been lucky till now? However if there was 1 quart in the system to begin with there still should be the same quart in there now. Providing someone has not added any. So when he pushes all of the fluid back to the reservior it should be at the "Full" mark as the truck was when it was brand new and he should not have to drain any off.

 

If you have not added any fluid into the reservoir while you have had the truck. Then the same amount should still be in there since it was new. When you push the fluid back in it should be at the full line and not over flow. So there should be no need to drain any before you start.

 

The reason you bleed some out is like txab said, you don't want to push contaminated fluid thats in the caliper back in the ABS system.

 

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