Jump to content

Broke ....


Recommended Posts

Posted
Well I just talked to the gm rep.. he kind shied away from the issue only because it was lifted.. but, he did say that they would pay for the frame(3500$) and if I took this deal there would be no warrantty on this frame.. also, I would be only responsible for the labor costs.. he estimated roughly 4000. I don't wanna say im happy but it just sucks knowing I bought this truck n now it needs 4000 for a frame... im happy that they are kind enough to even pay for the frame instead of telling me to get lost. All in all, onne big headache.. glad its getting fixed.

 

$4000 for labor, or total and $500 for labor?

 

4000 = new frame($3500)+labor($500?) +(frames free).. I don't wanna drop 4000 .. I have to borrow from my parents ... believe me I don't wanna spend that but I guess I should look around n see what I could get it welded for price wise

 

 

 

You said the frame is about $3500 and the dealer is paying for it....Am I missing something here. Sounds like $500 for labor. Or labor is $4000 on top of the free $3500 frame.

 

 

 

Gm is paying for the frame, they are not however paying for the labor.. roughly 40004000 for labor I have to pay for. Just took it to another shop to have them look at it.. he said he didn't know what type of metal the frame was made of.. hhs. Metal or another name but I forgot. He told me the time n cost for material labor etc would be alot because u gotta remove the motor and other parts to have room.to weld.. I took it to back to the dealer .. im having them to it.

 

 

I am also confused on the cost part.... What you highlighted indicates that this repair will only cost you $500. However earlier (and later) you mention that your out of pocket costs are going to be $4,000. Which is it? If you owe $4,000 on top of the "free" frame the total cost of this repair is $7,500 which is ridiculous to dump in to any vehicle just to get it back to drivable.

 

If your out of pocket expenses are $4,000 there is no way it would cost that to have a welder repair it. I weld for a living, (even though it is pipe and not truck frames) and I would take 1/4 of that price to weld that back together any day...

 

Either way you go, there is no warranty on the work so that shouldn't factor into the equation. I would weld it back together and then sell that thing as fast as possible so that you will not have to deal with it anymore.

  • Replies 132
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
Well I just talked to the gm rep.. he kind shied away from the issue only because it was lifted.. but, he did say that they would pay for the frame(3500$) and if I took this deal there would be no warrantty on this frame.. also, I would be only responsible for the labor costs.. he estimated roughly 4000. I don't wanna say im happy but it just sucks knowing I bought this truck n now it needs 4000 for a frame... im happy that they are kind enough to even pay for the frame instead of telling me to get lost. All in all, onne big headache.. glad its getting fixed.

 

$4000 for labor, or total and $500 for labor?

 

4000 = new frame($3500)+labor($500?) +(frames free).. I don't wanna drop 4000 .. I have to borrow from my parents ... believe me I don't wanna spend that but I guess I should look around n see what I could get it welded for price wise

 

 

 

You said the frame is about $3500 and the dealer is paying for it....Am I missing something here. Sounds like $500 for labor. Or labor is $4000 on top of the free $3500 frame.

 

 

 

 

 

Gm is paying for the frame, they are not however paying for the labor.. roughly 40004000 for labor I have to pay for. Just took it to another shop to have them look at it.. he said he didn't know what type of metal the frame was made of.. hhs. Metal or another name but I forgot. He told me the time n cost for material labor etc would be alot because u gotta remove the motor and other parts to have room.to weld.. I took it to back to the dealer .. im having them to it.

 

 

I am also confused on the cost part.... What you highlighted indicates that this repair will only cost you $500. However earlier (and later) you mention that your out of pocket costs are going to be $4,000. Which is it? If you owe $4,000 on top of the "free" frame the total cost of this repair is $7,500 which is ridiculous to dump in to any vehicle just to get it back to drivable.

 

If your out of pocket expenses are $4,000 there is no way it would cost that to have a welder repair it. I weld for a living, (even though it is pipe and not truck frames) and I would take 1/4 of that price to weld that back together any day...

 

Either way you go, there is no warranty on the work so that shouldn't factor into the equation. I would weld it back together and then sell that thing as fast as possible so that you will not have to deal with it anymore.

 

 

The welder even told me once it is all said and done I wont be saving money..plus this is not ordinary steel and you are not suppose to weld on these.(hydroform) so why not spend the money, have professionals do it and get a new frame for 4000.? I think im doing the right thing..

Posted

I just have to say being a welding engineer for a Tier one supplier that builds frames for everybody but GM..... The steel is hydro-formed but it isn't any kind of "special steel". Yes, it is higher strength than mild steel but these frames are welded with an ER70S-3 wire electrode and that is the same electrode used in most muffler shops just to compare. Typically the steel used is a Hot rolled high strength but is totally safe to weld with a standard method and welding apparatus.

 

On the other hand, if GM gives you this frame are they making it mandatory that a GM dealership does the labor? I only ask because I'm willing to bet that there are several collision shops that will do it for less.

Posted

I'm only looking at how much you are having to pay for a weld job as a problem. I'm not questioning your reasoning of which avenue you take. If I were told that welding is not an option or just as costly as a frame replacement I probably would go the same route. However, if welding is an option & since, in my mind (my own little world of course) should be considerably cheaper I would opt that way. Like I originally said...this is only my opinion & opinion are like #&%holes...everyone has one...& they all stink.

Posted
I just have to say being a welding engineer for a Tier one supplier that builds frames for everybody but GM..... The steel is hydro-formed but it isn't any kind of "special steel". Yes, it is higher strength than mild steel but these frames are welded with an ER70S-3 wire electrode and that is the same electrode used in most muffler shops just to compare. Typically the steel used is a Hot rolled high strength but is totally safe to weld with a standard method and welding apparatus.

 

On the other hand, if GM gives you this frame are they making it mandatory that a GM dealership does the labor? I only ask because I'm willing to bet that there are several collision shops that will do it for less.

 

Hell, I'll do it for half what the GM rep told him for labor and could have it done over a long weekend.

Posted
I just have to say being a welding engineer for a Tier one supplier that builds frames for everybody but GM..... The steel is hydro-formed but it isn't any kind of "special steel". Yes, it is higher strength than mild steel but these frames are welded with an ER70S-3 wire electrode and that is the same electrode used in most muffler shops just to compare. Typically the steel used is a Hot rolled high strength but is totally safe to weld with a standard method and welding apparatus.

 

On the other hand, if GM gives you this frame are they making it mandatory that a GM dealership does the labor? I only ask because I'm willing to bet that there are several collision shops that will do it for less.

 

 

Learn something new everyday :nonod:

 

Sounds like your welder doesn't want to touch your truck. So if it was me I would go to another welder. And I don't see why you would have to pull the motor to weld that part. I have seen guys crawl into the most cramp places to weld pipes and half the time they can't even see their welds.

 

All you have to do is throw a blanket over your motor. Grind the weld areas clean. Clamp the pieces in place and weld.

Posted
I just have to say being a welding engineer for a Tier one supplier that builds frames for everybody but GM..... The steel is hydro-formed but it isn't any kind of "special steel". Yes, it is higher strength than mild steel but these frames are welded with an ER70S-3 wire electrode and that is the same electrode used in most muffler shops just to compare. Typically the steel used is a Hot rolled high strength but is totally safe to weld with a standard method and welding apparatus.

 

On the other hand, if GM gives you this frame are they making it mandatory that a GM dealership does the labor? I only ask because I'm willing to bet that there are several collision shops that will do it for less.

If I go with gm the only way they will pay for the frame is if they do the work.. welder mentioned that there's alot of labor to get the truck apart +labor materials which = lots of money.can't just weld an go.. or else I would

Posted
I just have to say being a welding engineer for a Tier one supplier that builds frames for everybody but GM..... The steel is hydro-formed but it isn't any kind of "special steel". Yes, it is higher strength than mild steel but these frames are welded with an ER70S-3 wire electrode and that is the same electrode used in most muffler shops just to compare. Typically the steel used is a Hot rolled high strength but is totally safe to weld with a standard method and welding apparatus.

 

On the other hand, if GM gives you this frame are they making it mandatory that a GM dealership does the labor? I only ask because I'm willing to bet that there are several collision shops that will do it for less.

 

 

Learn something new everyday :nonod:

 

Sounds like your welder doesn't want to touch your truck. So if it was me I would go to another welder. And I don't see why you would have to pull the motor to weld that part. I have seen guys crawl into the most cramp places to weld pipes and half the time they can't even see their welds.

 

All you have to do is throw a blanket over your motor. Grind the weld areas clean. Clamp the pieces in place and weld.

 

 

Only if it was that easy.. he said he would pull the motor... its a tight space

Posted

I'm not trying to prolong your agony here but you might try a shop that specializes in customizing 4x4s. Even if they do R&R the engine...... 8hrs @ $100 per hr....(I'm guessing).... $800. 4 hrs for the weld job @ $100 per hr....... $400. Even if you double that, I can't see more than $2400. (No other parts required that I can think of).

 

They may ask you to sign a scary waver that the vehicle is for "Off-road use only". That's what I would do, if I had a shop that does this sort of work.

 

I have to agree with others that are telling you that changing out that frame is a scary proposition that could be opening a real can of worms. There are hundreds of fasteners that have to be properly torqued and maybe even some that shouldn't even be reused. Not only is there a lot of wiring that will have to be taken apart but fuel lines, brake lines, exhaust parts............. on & on.

 

It also sounds like your truck will not be lifted when they are finished...... Not sure how important that is to you.

 

If you go with the new frame (which it sounds like you will), ask who pays if they mess something up in the installation. This "No warranty" sounds a bit strange. Find out exactly what that means.

Posted
I'm not trying to prolong your agony here but you might try a shop that specializes in customizing 4x4s. Even if they do R&R the engine...... 8hrs @ $100 per hr....(I'm guessing).... $800. 4 hrs for the weld job @ $100 per hr....... $400. Even if you double that, I can't see more than $2400. (No other parts required that I can think of).

 

They may ask you to sign a scary waver that the vehicle is for "Off-road use only". That's what I would do, if I had a shop that does this sort of work.

 

I have to agree with others that are telling you that changing out that frame is a scary proposition that could be opening a real can of worms. There are hundreds of fasteners that have to be properly torqued and maybe even some that shouldn't even be reused. Not only is there a lot of wiring that will have to be taken apart but fuel lines, brake lines, exhaust parts............. on & on.

 

It also sounds like your truck will not be lifted when they are finished...... Not sure how important that is to you.

 

If you go with the new frame (which it sounds like you will), ask who pays if they mess something up in the installation. This "No warranty" sounds a bit strange. Find out exactly what that means.

Well I can tell u welding my issue isn't going to be that easy or cheap.. I had multiple people look at it and they all said the same thing.. I don't get why everyone says u can weld on these frames when it states that you are not.suppose to.. its not safe. Id rather pay the 4000 and have gm do it and do it right .. the lift is staying on also, they aren't removing it. And if something goes wrong down the road they will be obligated to replacefix because that's gms name on the work.. I got lucky that my mechanic knows the guy and was able to get my frame paid for... not just anyone can wall in and get a frame paid for... even though im getting railed on the labor costs ayleast I don't I have to pay for both frame +labor.. im in a big.dilemma and there is no easy way.. easy way for me is bite the bullet and get a new frame replaced by pros .. simple I guess.

Posted

Bring lube!!! Sorry I couldn't resist saying that. I do hope everything works out for you. Sorry you got a used lemon.

Posted

"Well I can tell u welding my issue isn't going to be that easy or cheap.. I had multiple people look at it and they all said the same thing.. "

 

Fair enough.

 

"I don't get why everyone says u can weld on these frames when it states that you are not.suppose to.. its not safe."

 

Where did you find it "stated" that you cannot weld on the frame? Your first statement sounded like welding is a plausible option just not cheap. Then you say you specifically you can't because of safety. If welding wasn't safe then how are these frame welded in the first place (yes there are welds on your frame from the factory.) I find it hard to believe that these frames have never been "repaired" by GM or any other repair facility. If an insurance company can "straighten" a bent frame, which cause significant weakness in material, then welding, which is an actual fabrication/repair procedure, should not be a problem, just costly in your case.

Posted
"Well I can tell u welding my issue isn't going to be that easy or cheap.. I had multiple people look at it and they all said the same thing.. "

 

Fair enough.

 

"I don't get why everyone says u can weld on these frames when it states that you are not.suppose to.. its not safe."

 

Where did you find it "stated" that you cannot weld on the frame? Your first statement sounded like welding is a plausible option just not cheap. Then you say you specifically you can't because of safety. If welding wasn't safe then how are these frame welded in the first place (yes there are welds on your frame from the factory.) I find it hard to believe that these frames have never been "repaired" by GM or any other repair facility. If an insurance company can "straighten" a bent frame, which cause significant weakness in material, then welding, which is an actual fabrication/repair procedure, should not be a problem, just costly in your case.

Its just one big f@#$in problem... im in such a position the only right thing to do is pay the bucks on a new frame.. im sure gm will take care of me.. they were nice enough to pay for the frame im sure they will do the right thing. the lady from gm explained that the they might run into parts that need to be replaced, I just said make it right.. do what u gotta do.. should be done Tuesday Wednesday next week.

Posted

The simple fact here is, like a lot of people now-a-days, the OP started a thread, asking opinions and when they didn't line up with what he believed was the truth, or correct, then they were questioned as it must be wrong, right?

 

And people expect help and answers on these forums from qualified people. Wonder why there isn't many around anymore..........

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,736
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    pimafe6931
    Newest Member
    pimafe6931
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 588 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Great info to have, I printed out what you had in your document as well as Newdudes post as I could see this mistake with the hardware happening very often if not realizing what type of special bolts are being used and just guess on bolt size for torque or the good enough "easy" method as per whack in the used bolts with an impact and send it !. 
    • I installed the Auto stop eliminator on my 21 Sierra SLT shortly after I got it. They have a detailed video instruction on how, took me about 20-30 minutes to do. I was apprehensive too to start tearing apart a new truck but it was pretty easy install. Like you mentioned get some trim tools. I went to Harbor freight and picked up a set. If you can find some install videos/instructions to give you and idea for a plan of attack you should be fine.  
    • If all oil manufacturers had to meet a higher standard for not just the initial filtering of the oil but that they had to improve on their formulation so that the oil cleaned the engine such as the Valvoline R&P or the new Mobil product ( assuming it works similar of course ), and the oil was changed on an interval based on good UOA data, there shouldn't be any gremlins running around like miniture rats on top of your heads to be washed down into the oil pan below 😁 
    • Worst factory HD wheels GM makes
    • A while back on another thread there were comments and thoughts on air filters and I know that can tend to be a bit of a hot topic because of outfits that have a vested interest in selling aftermarket air boxes fitted with the gauze type of oiled elements touting the lower air restriction. However and unfortunately I don't know where I have seen the test results in the past about the amount of dirt through a test procedure that these style of filters do pass more dirt through than a properly designed ( not some cheap Chinese knock off ) paper/synesthetic media filter can do. Lake Speed had a conversation on that topic with one of the employees at Donaldson and there seemed to be a consensus of these oiled filters falling short in the absolute percentage of dirt holdback.    Which all ties back into how good the air filter is on the engine at keeping dirt out as that is going to reflect as a contaminant introduced into the oil as well as cylinder wear even if some of that dirt does find its way out of the exhaust rather then the crank case. Put another way that one can throw the kitchen sink at filtering the oil and using a bypass system which I fully expect will do nothing but good for the oils contamination but if the air filter system isn't doing its job then its preventing the engine from reaching the best wear/lasting case scenario instead.    Now perhaps this topic is or isn't for this particular thread but Grumpy Bear or anyone else for that matter, do you have access to some scientific trust worthy testing on engine air filter types to get some proper comparison data to post up.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...