Jump to content

creaking and knocking noise


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Got my truck back today and no noises but its been raining here for a while so I don't know yet if its fixed. They said they lubed up both leaf springs and tightened everything down,we'll see what happens. On another note the dealers service dept. has been great, they gave me a hybrid tahoe to take on vacation and would not give up until they found out what the problem was. They have always been very good to me.

Posted

Truck is still making the knocking noise when I go slow over bumps but the squeaking/creaking noise is gone , for now.

Posted

Have you been in contact with customer assistance? I would be happy to assist you as well. Please contact me privately with more information including the last eight of your VIN and dealer name. Thank you in advance.

 

Tricia, GM Customer Service.

Posted

Dropped my truck off yesterday again for the knocking noise in the rear end. I took the service manager for a ride and he herd the noise that two mechanics and a service writer couldnt hear. Manager called today said my truck was all set. He told me the noise is normal in these trucks and suv's. He said there is play in the axel and mentioned c-clips in the rear differential and all GM trucks and SUV's have this play in the axel and thats the noise Im hearing. I have owned 3 different chevy trucks since 2003, Ive driven at least 5 different tahoes or suburbans for extended periods of time and not one of those trucks made this noise. My truck now is one year old with @ 20,000 miles and didnt make this noise until a few weeks ago. I was wondering if anyone else out there is having this issue and if it really is normal. Im going to try a different dealership next week but this whole issue is starting to get annoying.

Posted

i do believe there is a TSB out for c-clips in the rear axle. not sure if you qualify but it's worth looking into

 

 

Anyone have a link to this tsb?

Posted

When I was 16 and got my first pickup it had nerf bars on it that were a little rusted so I took them off. About a week later I noticed that my bed would actually shift about an inch when I would turn sharply. I would then purposely turn hard in the other direction to even it out (I got to be pretty good at it). After a while it occurred to me that the "mounting hardware" that fastened the nerf bars to my truck was also the hardware that fastened my bed and cab to the frame. Luckily I kept the bolts...

Posted

Well the squeaking/creaking is back and worse than ever along with the thumping in the rear end. Im going to try a different dealership tomorrow and see if they can figure this out. I cant believe the first dealer said this thumping, knocking noise was normal. If it was GM wouldnt sell many trucks and everybody would be complaining about it. The noise is very noticable and seems to be getting worse.

Posted

The dealer said they inspected and tightened everything under there but who knows. Last time it went to the dealer they said they tightened the bolts that hold on the leaf springs and it seemed to quiet the knocking noise for a day or two. Its going back today.

Posted

The dealer said they inspected and tightened everything under there but who knows. Last time it went to the dealer they said they tightened the bolts that hold on the leaf springs and it seemed to quiet the knocking noise for a day or two. Its going back today.

 

 

I can understand your frustration. Good luck.

Posted

Well I got my truck back from a different dealer and both noises are still there. They said they had to adjust the shackle that holds the leaf springs to the truck and after they did the noise stopped. As soon as I got home and pulled in my driveway it started thumping and squeaking. I know the squeaking is just an annoyance but the thumping has to be something not normal or am I wrong? Does anyone's truck make a thumping noise in the rearend when going less than 10mph and going over bumps at an angle? I am tired of dealing with this and dont even want to drive my truck any more.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...