Jump to content

Instrument Cluster resetting


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey All,

 

I've got a 2008 Tahoe, and its having an odd problem, the instrument cluster and the passanger airbag lights in the overhead console display are resetting (like what happens when you first start the truck) in cold weather (anything below 5c) and until the vehicle warms up, they keep resetting.

 

I have tried re-seating the instrument panel, but that did not do anything, Also, I have had a scantool hooked up to the truck while this was happeing with no issues showing, and data never cut to the scantool during the resets.

 

I am not sure what would cause this, but any help or suggestions would be great!

 

Thanks,

Posted

make an appointment to the dealer ,,,,,,maybe a reprograming and a scan with a real scanner

 

 

I took it to the local chevy dealer, they've never heard of the problem before and said "investigating" the problem would take a few days and cost at least $1000... I was hoping someone else had heard of the problem at least. as for using a "real scanner" on it, it was a SnapOn Verus that I was using, I know it isn't a Tech 2 being used by a GM Tech, but still...

Posted

Wow a thousand bucks? Hope that includes the lube... Have you tried disconnecting the battery for ten minutes to reset everything? If it works you owe me a grand. :)

Posted

Since these vehicles are picky about electrical supply issues, I'd check battery condition (load test), battery cable connections and condition, check and clean all body grounds. If you search this site, you'll find reports of problems like yours, sometimes being cleared after checking into these items. Worth a try.

 

Also you can swap Instrument clusters to find out if the cluster is at fault

Posted
Since these vehicles are picky about electrical supply issues, I'd check battery condition (load test), battery cable connections and condition, check and clean all body grounds. If you search this site, you'll find reports of problems like yours, sometimes being cleared after checking into these items. Worth a try.

 

Also you can swap Instrument clusters to find out if the cluster is at fault

 

This....

  • 2 years later...
Posted

.
Put a voltmeter between the battery ground terminal and the disconnected ground wire. Turn on the key, take a reading, then turn off the key and take a reading. It's usually the radio fuse, disconnect it and watch to see if the drain goes to zero. Then replace the radio fuse with a relay.

Posted

I took it to the local chevy dealer, they've never heard of the problem before and said "investigating" the problem would take a few days and cost at least $1000... I was hoping someone else had heard of the problem at least. as for using a "real scanner" on it, it was a SnapOn Verus that I was using, I know it isn't a Tech 2 being used by a GM Tech, but still...

$1,000!, that's insane and is exactly and why many people refer to them as 'stealerships'.

 

There is absolutely no need to pay that kind of money for a diagnosis when all they will do is plug into the OBDII port and then scratch their heads.

 

When is the last time you had a new battery installed?

Definitely seems like you may need a new one. If you do need to go that route, don't buy one from the dealership because they will over charge you and the AcDelco branded batteries they have are of low quality. I have gone through 3 of them in my 2010 Silverado. I finally got tired of playing dealership games and bought a good Interstate battery, problem solved.

 

 

 

Sent from my crappy iPhone 6

using Tapatalk

Posted

Hey All,

 

I've got a 2008 Tahoe, and its having an odd problem, the instrument cluster and the passanger airbag lights in the overhead console display are resetting (like what happens when you first start the truck) in cold weather (anything below 5c) and until the vehicle warms up, they keep resetting.

 

I have tried re-seating the instrument panel, but that did not do anything, Also, I have had a scantool hooked up to the truck while this was happeing with no issues showing, and data never cut to the scantool during the resets.

 

I am not sure what would cause this, but any help or suggestions would be great!

 

Thanks,

 

 

Creoden,

 

I am sorry to hear about your concern. Keep me posted and feel free to contact me if you need any additional assistance. Thank you.

 

Tricia, GM Customer Service.

I think the real question that you should ask him is what is the dealerships name and address? I wish HQ would go after these overpriced overcharging dealers and add the word "customer" back to the service sign in the back.

People wouldn't mind paying a little bit of money to let gm do the work if they didn't feel like they were about to get taken to the cleaners for a repair.

  • 4 years later...
Posted
13 hours ago, Marks4582 said:

So what fixed this?

OP only has two posts in 6 years...both on this topic. Doubt you'll hear anything from him on whether or not this problem was fixed

Posted

Damn. I’m having the exact same problem in my 2011 Silverado. Battery tested good but I swapped it with my 2011 Yukon xl, which had no problems, and it still does it. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,732
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    user087
    Newest Member
    user087
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 843 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Here's a starter kit:    CC Jensen, a Danish oil testing Concern gives us the following guidelines:   ISO 14/12/10 Very Clean Oil ISO 16/14/11 Clean Oil ISO 17/15/12 Lightly Contaminated ISO 19/17/14 New Oil ISO 22/20/17 Very Contaminated and not suitable for any service.   In addition CC Jensen gives a table showing how engine life is increased by cleaning up the oil. For example cleaning the oil from 19/17/14 to 13/11/8 will extend motor life by a factor of 6X.   But even cleaning it two “Life Extension Classes” will double motor life. So perhaps giving those classes would be useful:   21/19/16 20/18/15 19/17/14 18/16/13 17/15/12 16/14/11 15/13/10 14/12/9 13/11/8   *************************************   https://testoil.com/program-management/setting-iso-cleanliness-targets/   Third paragraph from the bottom will give a starting point.    Your next question should be, okay 10um at what Beta ratio and the answer is in the graph Beta 75.   Then the next question is what is your chosen filters profile? (Purolator PL series below) The red dot is Beta 75. This was the information I obtained from MANN a few years ago. So the best filters, Purolator One, AMSOIL EA, FRAM Ultra, Royal Purple, Bosch Premium should get a doubling engine life over filters like Purolator L, any service filter from any quick lube, WIX, NAPA, STP, Mobil 1, Purolator BOSS.    And as noted by CC Jensen a 2-5 micron @ Beta 200 bypass system has the capability of a six fold improvement. AMSOIL has such a system as does Donaldson.       Now having said all that testing is the touchstone. Test the oil NEW and test it with your chosen filter. Then test over milage. Do the work, get the result. But understand this in NOT absolute BECAUSE this is one factor in isolation.   Example:    A valve spring supplier can state that with cam X and a valve train of Y grams the valves will not float to 7K rpm. is that true if the builder choose a system 20 grams over limit? Common sense must be used and limits understood. 
    • This doesn't look like a GM truck. Not needed on a HD truck
    • It varies a ton around me. Some places are still at $5.00 or higher and others are way down into the $4's.   Offroad diesel was $4.02 at the one station I passed today.
    • So after reading the reveal from Chevrolet, I kept asking myself...why did the trim levels change?   Here are the official ones:   Work Truck (WT): The quintessential fleet truck, built with durable, easy-to-clean interiors for commercial or utilitarian use. Custom: A stylish, road-oriented trim that adds a more refined appearance, standard dual exhaust, and modern exterior styling. Custom Trail Boss: An entry-level off-roader featuring a 2-inch factory suspension lift and 34-inch mud-terrain tires on a budget. Silverado: Serving as the new base consumer truck (replacing the previous LT trim), it comes standard with the Z71 off-road package when equipped with 4WD. Trail Boss: Steps up the off-road hardware with the 2-inch lift, 34-inch tires, monotube shocks, an exclusive off-road hood, and more premium interior options. ZR2: The flagship off-roader. It boasts 35-inch mud-terrain tires, Multimatic DSSV dampers, front and rear electronic lockers, forged carbon-fiber interior accents, and an available hardcore Bison Edition (co-developed with AEV). High Country: The pinnacle of luxury. It replaces bright chrome with modern satin chrome, 22-inch wheels, premium leather, real wood interior trim, a panoramic sunroof, and an exclusive front-passenger touchscreen. As others have stated, why would you want a Silverado - 'Silverado' - wth?? LT needs to remain!!!   Also, there will no longer be a dedicated Z71 model.  All 4x4 trucks will have the Z71 package. Carplay is also something that cannot be removed.  Hopefully it will remain.     I am excited about the 5.7L V8 (350 C.I.D.)  Old school Chevy power.  My only concern is whatever version of AFM/DFM cylinder deactivation.  Too bad that isn't an option a buyer can choose to have or not.   I will definitely be stopping by my local dealership when these trucks start showing up.
    • I haven't seen diesel for less than $5.30 anywhere in my area
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...