Jump to content

S10 Sputtering at Idle and Check Engine Light Flashing

djpardi

By djpardi
in Ask A GM Technician

Recommended Posts

djpardi New Member

djpardi

Posted
Posted

I found this thread on this site that seems the closest to my issue but I wanted to get a few other comments before I start:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=62425\

 

 

I have an Chevy S10 4x4 '02 6 cylinder crew and I have a very similar issue (as seen in above thread). Last I started the S10 there were no issues. This morning I started it and at idle it is sputtering and hesitant when gas is applied. The check engine light is flashing.

 

I shut the truck off to see if it would solve the problem and the engine turned but did not start up right away. I waited about 2 minutes and it started again but still sputtering. I had to get to work (~6 miles highway driving) and noticed there were no issues at high speeds (~55 mph). The sputtering resumed when i was off the highway.

 

I read one forum saying the pistons could be running into the valves causing the sputtering and I am very worried that the engine may get damaged beyond repair if i drive home if it hasn't already.

 

I also read it could be any of the following problems:

-Fuel sensor

-Vacuum leak

-ignition or fuel injector

-oxygen sensor

-and now the Vent screens

 

Can you give me any suggestions. I know the first thing I have to do is get the codes from a local garage I'm just a little afraid to drive the vehicle in its current condition

 

One last note that may or may not be of relavance. Over the weekend Snow Storm I noticed a large accumulation of snow under the entire truck when i backed it out of its parking spot. The truck was not sputtering at this point it i noticed it the next day

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

My first thought is a loose connection. The problem happened the next day because the road salt got up in there & worked it's way into whatever is failing.

 

Could be 1000 things, some of which you listed. The spider on those engines is an epic pile of s*** - could be that as well .... but since we just had a massive storm, the first thing I would be checking is battery connections, and the rest of the under hood wiring and connectors. Salt ALWAYS finds poor connections.

 

I just had a similar issue with a '00 Ford Focus. Severe misfire on #3. Without even testing anything, I replaced the ignitor, due to the giant crack in it, and the fact that it ran fine up until the first storm of the season. Haven't had a problem in 4k miles since.

djpardi New Member

djpardi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the response Jsdirt. Actually the truck had not left the yard over the weekend and when i started it on monday it had the issue, so im not sure that salt was the problem.

 

Last night when i left work the sputtering issue seemed to go away. Only a slight amount of sputtering was barely noticeable. THis morning the truck seems to run just as before the issue. Possible some snow was lodge in a place where it didnt belong blocking a passage and is now clear (snow melted?).

 

Either way I think I will give the truck an overhaul in the spring and change out all of these little things in my list. It wont hurt!

  • 3 months later...
burnettw Enthusiast

burnettw

Posted
Posted

Sounds like a fuel delivery system problem. Could be a weak fuel pump or leaking fuel pressure regulator. Do a fuel pressure and leakdown test.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • Chuck FB
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...