Jump to content

Nerf bars for body lift?

LongrangeLauber

Recommended Posts

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
Posted

Hey all I just installed a 3" body lift on top of my 6" suspension and now I actually have to jump to get in my truck. Now I'm looking at getting nerf bars (the ones with individual steps on a single bar) so I can get in and out easier. Anyways the question is, is there a nerf bar out there that is frame mounted but can be adjusted 3" up for a body lift? I saw a Go Rhino Nerf Bar that is cab mounted which would get me a nice flush look, but I would rather not drill into the cab, and feel like it would not be that sturdy anyways. If anyone has thoughts or know anything, please lemme know. It would be greatly appreciated

zach1990 Senior Enthusiast

zach1990

Posted
Posted

I don't have em but the main recommendation you will get is nfab

 

Sent from my SGH-I927 using Tapatalk 2

MTPoleKat Enthusiast

MTPoleKat

Posted
Posted

You don't have to drill into the body they use exsisting holes. I have the nfab I thought the same thing with the strurdy thing but they are rock solid. The have even had my 400# buddy on em so they will hold up.

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well there are three different kinds of the Go Rhino. Two of them mount using the body mount bolts and the one I was looking at mount to the body itself and I looked up the instructions and says you have to drill to the underneath of the cab. And I'm pretty sure I looked at the NFab but they do not have any for an extended cab. Unless I can just use the crew cab ones.

scooby5121 Enthusiast

scooby5121

Posted
Posted

I have seen some nice retractable steps !!!! Hidden till the door opens, and look good too.

Scooby

MTPoleKat Enthusiast

MTPoleKat

Posted
Posted

I have seen some nice retractable steps !!!! Hidden till the door opens, and look good too.

Scooby

I've always wondered how them would hold up in the mud, snow, and ice. The gumbo we have in this country would lock them up I would think

 

I never have liked the looks of nerf bars and steps. But got sick of the ol lady and boys whining about jumping up into the pickup. It also helps on saveing the edge of the seat dragging youself in and out.

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Those retractable steps are quite costly and my battery already has enough strain on it, I should probably run dual batteries. I don't think the nerf bars don't look all too bad, especially if the truck they are on sits just right, not too tall or short.

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well Ive narrowed my results down to two kinds of cab mount nerf bars. The first being the go rhino dominator 2 in all black, or the other choice is Iron Cross plus steps in black with stainless step pad. They each have their advantages and disadvantages.

 

Dominator 2: Very popular, all welded, but no stainless step pad

 

Plus Step: Stainless step pad and steps adjustable front to rear (sits on rail), but steps are obviously not welded on (bolted), and the rail seems like a bad idea in my opinion.

 

Any thoughts would be helpful. Hoping to order them this weekend so I can get them in hopefully next week

MTPoleKat Enthusiast

MTPoleKat

Posted
Posted

when I was looking the Iron Cross had some real bad reviews. Was the reason I didn't go with them.

CKNSLS Enthusiast

CKNSLS

Posted
Posted

Don't recommend body bolt installs for nerf bars. However, before you proceed to you know torque specs for the body bolts?

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I would rather get a frame mounted nerf bars but just don't want the gap because on the body lift. And just looked it up and the install instructions say tighten but to no specific torque

blackout07 Senior Enthusiast

blackout07

Posted
Posted

I have Dominators. I'm a pretty big guy, and they're as solid today as they were 5 years ago. They also have a stainless step pad. Unless they changed their design, that's how they come.

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have Dominators. I'm a pretty big guy, and they're as solid today as they were 5 years ago. They also have a stainless step pad. Unless they changed their design, that's how they come.

 

Do you have the frame mounted ones or the cab mounted ones where you gotta drill a buncha holes? Im 6 foot 2, 250 lbs so I need a pretty sturdy step

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • diyer2
      AFM Experience

      By diyer2 · Posted

      Hey guys, sorry for the confusison about this. This wasn't my experainnce, it was copied and pasted fom the net. 
    • KARNUT
      AFM Experience

      By KARNUT · Posted

      The problem with failure rates or increase failures are there’s people who don’t have a problem. What are you doing wrong they say. We had 4 5.7 GM diesel’s in the family when they came out. One was flawless. My uncle who happened to be the most abusive. Early rotary engines were known to use oil. I abused my first car so bad in six months I replaced the clutch, transmission and rear end. It didn’t use oil. My brother in law has a 2013 Tahoe and an older Yukon. The Yukon has 280K miles. The Tahoe around 175K. He runs them to about 300K. If his lifters fail before that time he would consider it a failure. My Hondas, I know people hate it when I mention them. Identical engines. One with cylinder deactivation one doesn’t have it. One shudders when the eco light goes on or off. Cylinder deactivation. But wait! According to the web. It can happen with lock up too. So now people in the know are changing the oil and transmission fluid more often. Then you read it could be a programing issue. So what do you do? There’s lots of money involved. I see three ways to deal with it. One only works if you don’t drive lots of miles. Lease, never get out of warranty. Or only buy older vehicles with a good track record. They all have bad runs. Usually when there’s a change. Even Toyota and Honda. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      AFM Experience

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • SwitchBladeSierra
      14-18 Sierra 1500 Heated Steering Wheel Help

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • newdude
      Seems to be Missing a lot of Updates

      By newdude · Posted

      GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...