Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

This may be a really dumb question but I figure this would be a good place to ask it. Also keep in mind this is my first truck and first lift so this is a newbie question, is it possible to put an air bag helper system in the rear even after lifting it? I don't tow often so don't want to put an add a leaf just cause it will make the ride stiffer.

 

Main reason I ask is my truck already sags when I tow my family's boat or the trike I posted in another thread and I hate the sag. Especially once I start driving at night with those things and my headlights are way up in the sky.

Posted

7" Fabtech, Stock 20's and 35" Lexani Mud Beast. Decided to keep the wheels stock for now to see what it looked like. So far im happy with it.

 

s6hvC1B.jpg

S9R8zcG.jpg

PdKeIoE.jpg

fujzKxo.jpg

 

did this setup require spacers at all? looks good.

Posted

That makes since as I called a Zone rep about an hour away that installs these kits. He mentioned the tie rod cut needs to be just right. I also called Zone and they think their engineers may be able to help with me supplying some measurements of before and after, etc. I have my first alignment paperwork from the shop who installed the kit and from a dealership who checked the alignment and reset the steering sensor. I am going t have a shop check it one more time and I am going to give them the paperwork and the specs from the Zone kit manual for them to compare and see if they can come up with something. if not, I am going to have GM run diags on my speed sensors. I am not pulling any codes with my scanner though, so hopefully not a faulty sensor and I do not get any lights on any other time than sharp turns. The shop also said you also need to have all the cuts just right. I remember the shop who installed my kit mention afterwards they had to do a lot of cutting and grinding for this kit.

Well I had a chance to talk with the other 2 owners of 14 Silverado s with the zone 6.5. They are both still having some issues. By the way they describe it I would say theirs is worse than mine. We reset the steering sensor on both of them and verified proper alignment on one. The one person did tell me that he swapped back to his factory wheels and tires and the issue went completely away. This tells me the issue has something to do with tore diameter. None of us have done anything as far as a tune to calibrate the ebcm for the larger tires. Really am at a loss. There was nothing g wrong with any of them until after the lift installs. Also just food for thought. One of these guys had a 6.5 zone on a 2012 silverado and he claims he had zero issue on that truck...not sure what is causing this but I have full access to a gm MDI and gds2 which is the factory scanner for our trucks. Did the zone engineers have any input?
Posted

Maybe you should try changing your tire diameter in the computer of your truck. I read somewhere, can't rememene where though, that when you change to a bigger or smaller tire that it will throw the calibration off and that the traction control comes on around turns. Just try recalibration the new tire size and see if that resolves the issue.

  • Like 1
Posted

Well I had a chance to talk with the other 2 owners of 14 Silverado s with the zone 6.5. They are both still having some issues. By the way they describe it I would say theirs is worse than mine. We reset the steering sensor on both of them and verified proper alignment on one. The one person did tell me that he swapped back to his factory wheels and tires and the issue went completely away. This tells me the issue has something to do with tore diameter. None of us have done anything as far as a tune to calibrate the ebcm for the larger tires. Really am at a loss. There was nothing g wrong with any of them until after the lift installs. Also just food for thought. One of these guys had a 6.5 zone on a 2012 silverado and he claims he had zero issue on that truck...not sure what is causing this but I have full access to a gm MDI and gds2 which is the factory scanner for our trucks. Did the zone engineers have any input?

After you had mentioned before one of the guys put his stock wheels back on and didn't have an issue, I got to thinking about that. I am running an aftermarket 20x9 with the Toyo open Country AT2 295/65r20 tire. Toyo's site claims the tire is a 35" tire, but that is actually true when the tire is inflated to it's max 80psi and not mounted on a truck putting weight on it. The tire is actually a 34" tire when I measured at 42psi. I am using the Diablo Intuner to tune my gears and new tire height over the 31" stock tires. In the tuner i was actually inputting 34" in the tire size section to adjust the speedometer, odometer, etc. There is a section you can actually punch in 295/65r20, but that throws off the speedometer slightly as it thinks it is a true 35" tire.

 

So over the weekend I had my tires rotated and the alignment checked against the recommended Zone specs one more time. Everything was within 1/1000's of the specs so I know it isn't the alignment. Before I left the shop, I adjusted my tune and punched in 295/60/r20 (not 65 to bring it closer to 34") and drove it home. The truck did MUCH better on turns at intersections and in parking lots. It still has the stabilitrak kick on once in awhile but not like it was. So I am thinking the system is that sensitive and was looking for a stock width of about 8.5". These Toyo's are about 11" wide and without all the dimensions punched in, it was throwing it off. However, since it is still doing it occasionally, I am still going to need to talk to the Zone engineers. I just want to try and cover everything I can on my end so they can eliminate all they can.

Posted

can anyone explain why the lift shop I'm talking to is recommending I don't use wheel spacers? I really like the look of this truck, but requires spacers.

 

post-131507-0-91432400-1415897503_thumb.jpg

 

post-131507-0-10015500-1415897509_thumb.jpg

post-131507-0-91432400-1415897503_thumb.jpg

post-131507-0-10015500-1415897509_thumb.jpg

post-131507-0-91432400-1415897503_thumb.jpg

post-131507-0-10015500-1415897509_thumb.jpg

post-131507-0-91432400-1415897503_thumb.jpg

post-131507-0-10015500-1415897509_thumb.jpg

Posted

can anyone explain why the lift shop I'm talking to is recommending I don't use wheel spacers? I really like the look of this truck, but requires spacers.

 

attachicon.gifzone6.5.jpg

 

attachicon.gifzone6.51.jpg

 

 

wheel spacers aren't really recommended for a few reasons, the most common ones I have heard are

 

1) its one more thing to have break and go wrong and you certainly dont want a wheel to break off, especially at high speeds

2) they will cause a more negative offset in the rim and will cause rubbing to be much more likely to occur

3) if you use any slide on spacer then you start to give the lugs less thread to bite, leaving the lug more likely to be able to loosen overtime if not properly maintained and you need to use at least a 1.5" bolt on spacer to avoid having to cut down the stock studs. Also if you use a bolt on spacer then you want to remember everytime that you rotate your wheels to check (and retighten if necessary) all lugs on the spacer bolts

 

These are th big 3 I remember off the top of my head

  • Like 1
Posted

 

How would the truck ever know the width of the tires? I highly doubt that has anything to do with it. Height throwing things off is a completely different story. I have 34" tire on mine and have not had any lights come on and have not touched the computer.

Who knows, it doesn't make sense. Are you running the Zone lift with your 34s? Maybe it's my tuner, but there are some having the same issue with no tune. I will adjust my tune to not adjust for the larger wheels and tires. My speedo will be off during this test but I want to see if the problem still occurs. It all boils down to needing the correct height of your tires programmed in the ECm so the abs and stabilitrak will not flip out. If it is my tuner not doing the job on this truck I will change to another one.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I had a 2.5" level on my 13 with 33x12.5 trail grapplers and had no issues. Tuned truck with same tuner I have now. Just set tire height to about 32.5 and speedo was on no issues.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I had a 2.5" level on my 13 with 33x12.5 trail grapplers and had no issues. Tuned truck with same tuner I have now. Just set tire height to about 32.5 and speedo was on no issues.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Did you regear the truck?

Posted

The old one? No regear. I did regear the new one I am having problems with to 4.10. The issue started before the gears and the tuner seems to correct that change. If you change gears, but don't reprogram the ABS light and others would be on all the time while driving. This issue is only while making sharp turns at normal speed.

Posted

The old one? No regear. I did regear the new one I am having problems with to 4.10. The issue started before the gears and the tuner seems to correct that change. If you change gears, but don't reprogram the ABS light and others would be on all the time while driving. This issue is only while making sharp turns at normal speed.

So you changed gears? What gears did you use? Do you think it was worth it? I am also pretty sure the issues we are having are related to the diameter of the tires. I need to get a tuner, was looking at superchips because i have used them before but i also have been considering diablo and black bear. I like the idea of a custom tune but dont know if its worth the extra money.

Posted

can anyone explain why the lift shop I'm talking to is recommending I don't use wheel spacers? I really like the look of this truck, but requires spacers.

 

attachicon.gifzone6.5.jpg

 

attachicon.gifzone6.51.jpg

I run 1.5 inch wheel spacers on the rear of my 2014. I did it to match the front. I have a 4 inch BDS lift and the lift moves the front out 1.78 inches. I have not had any issues with the spacers, but again they are only on the rear.

Posted

 

did this setup require spacers at all? looks good.

 

No spacers at all. If I didn't have the 20's it would need spacers. 18's wouldnt work at all without them

Posted

I ran 1.5 spacers all around on my truck before I lifted it and had do issues. As a matter of fact over 10k miles on 2 different trucks. Now just running them on the rear. Still no issues and no worries. These really dont hurt anything when properly installed. You will have some haters tell you not to use them but they are most likely going off a myth that these are unsafe.. I did a great deal of research before installing as I haul my kids in my ride and didn't want anything unsafe..

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,743 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2015 1500 LTZ Silverado suddenly won't go into 4 x 4 low. It will go into 4 x 4 high.
    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...