Jump to content

Order times?

BringTheRain403
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

BringTheRain403
BringTheRain403

Thanks! Lol that will probably be the longest 8 weeks of my life lol   Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2    

MotoMedic
MotoMedic

For those yet to order, GMC (corporate, not the dealer) will search the entire U. S. for a truck with any specifics you give them. Go to GMC's website and click the Chat icon. Tell the rep exactly wha

BringTheRain403
BringTheRain403

I've looked over and over trying to find the chat icon but I don't see it. Am I missing something?   Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2    

Posted Images

bobbyd Enthusiast

bobbyd

Posted
Posted

Hi everybody - BobbyD here! New to the forum!

 

So I've got a private offer from my GM card that will allow me to redeem $3k points on a 2014 Sierra 1500, which I just happened to be shopping for anyway.

 

The condition is, I have to take delivery by 10/31. The problem is that the particular configuration I'm looking for is nowhere to be found within 5000 miles of my zip code (yup, five-thousand miles); so I'm faced with ordering one.

 

I've got one dealer, that I like a lot, who is saying that while anything is possible, most likely it'll be 8-10 weeks. Also, they often have no idea when the truck is going to arrive until the day before or even the day of.

 

Another dealer is telling me 6-8 weeks; and not only that, they're saying that when they get the VIN two weeks before the truck arrives, they can write up the paperwork as sold and ding the GM card points
then. When asked how they could get the truck faster than another dealer that had quoted 8-10 weeks, they said some stuff about "allocations" and "volume" and "they sell a lot of trucks". I was also told that when a new truck order is sent in as "sold", that the factory often moves that one up in the build queue.

 

Can anybody tell me if this second dealer is blowing smoke? Can one dealer really get orders faster than another?

 

My build:

2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT 4wd double-cab

Iridium Metallic

All-terrain package w/chrome bumpers

3.42 axle ratio

20" machined aluminum rims

 

ps - apologies to the mods, I had originally started to new topic with this; moved it here, going to delete the other

DRS 95 Silverado Enthusiast

DRS 95 Silverado

Posted
Posted

Hi everybody - BobbyD here! New to the forum!

 

So I've got a private offer from my GM card that will allow me to redeem $3k points on a 2014 Sierra 1500, which I just happened to be shopping for anyway.

 

The condition is, I have to take delivery by 10/31. The problem is that the particular configuration I'm looking for is nowhere to be found within 5000 miles of my zip code (yup, five-thousand miles); so I'm faced with ordering one.

 

I've got one dealer, that I like a lot, who is saying that while anything is possible, most likely it'll be 8-10 weeks. Also, they often have no idea when the truck is going to arrive until the day before or even the day of.

 

Another dealer is telling me 6-8 weeks; and not only that, they're saying that when they get the VIN two weeks before the truck arrives, they can write up the paperwork as sold and ding the GM card points

then. When asked how they could get the truck faster than another dealer that had quoted 8-10 weeks, they said some stuff about "allocations" and "volume" and "they sell a lot of trucks". I was also told that when a new truck order is sent in as "sold", that the factory often moves that one up in the build queue.

 

Can anybody tell me if this second dealer is blowing smoke? Can one dealer really get orders faster than another?

 

My build:

2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT 4wd double-cab

Iridium Metallic

All-terrain package w/chrome bumpers

3.42 axle ratio

20" machined aluminum rims

 

ps - apologies to the mods, I had originally started to new topic with this; moved it here, going to delete the other

Mine was built 3 weeks after I ordered it. Took another 2 weeks to get to dealer. Total of 5 weeks and 1 day.

That was a crew cab SLT from Mexico. Yours will be built in US.

bobbyd Enthusiast

bobbyd

Posted
Posted

BringTheRain - I see you're also in PA. If I may ask, is yours a double-cab?

Lured away New Member

Lured away

Posted
Posted

I ordered a Crew cab June 19th and I am still waiting, was told it was build the week of Aug 26th with 12-17 days delivery time to Southern Ontario Canada.

  • 1 month later...
CRTrucks Enthusiast

CRTrucks

Posted
Posted

I just placed my order for a crew cab LTZ. Hopefully I am as lucky as you guys in delivery time as I am hoping to have it by mid December for our annual drive home to see family. Dealer has said anywhere from 6-12 weeks. I am in Maryland and have heard that GM sends them on a slow boat from Mexico to the port of Baltimore.

ncinc99 Enthusiast

ncinc99

Posted
Posted

We ordered an SLT crew cab standard box the morning of Wednesday September 4. It arrived late in the day at the dealer Wednesday October 16, which was exactly 6 weeks. We took delivery two days later after swapping the OEM tires for proper all terrain tires. This was a delivery in Massachusetts.

BamCam Enthusiast

BamCam

Posted
Posted

I am deciding in the next week to order or not. My dealer is telling me that GM shuts down for the whole month of December. They are saying it could be 12 weeks if ordered today!!! Is there any truth to this?

fyrman Enthusiast

fyrman

Posted
Posted

Order our SLT Crew Cab Z-71 on Sept 4th it was shipped on Sept 30th. Sat at the rail yard for 8 days. Taking delivery today. Six weeks and five days after order date. Dealer allow us to do our inspection late yesterday so we did not feel rushed today for the final pick up. Looking forward first new GMC since 1996. Most of the family drives GMC except for a brother-in-law that purchased a F-150 last year. He will change back after he drive this truck.

grizzlyrafting Enthusiast

grizzlyrafting

Posted
Posted

Ordered my SLT Crew Cab Sierra All Terrain on Sept.6, just spoke with the live agent on the gm.ca website and she said the truck was built Oct.15th and left the plant on the Oct.17th and expected here in southern Ontario by the middle of November..

CRTrucks Enthusiast

CRTrucks

Posted
Posted

How long was it before you all saw the status change to queued for production after you placed your order? Worried that this production slow down I heard about in the other thread will slow down my order.

CorvetteOJ Enthusiast

CorvetteOJ

Posted
Posted

How long was it before you all saw the status change to queued for production after you placed your order? Worried that this production slow down I heard about in the other thread will slow down my order.

CR, let me first say the entire ordering process is like a "crap shoot." There could be a "hiccup" at any stage of the process, or, as you have seen in this thread, some do go smooth as silk all the way through. I ordered my 6.2 Denali on Sept.19th. The following week, on Sept. 26th, I received a TPW(targeted production week) of Oct.14. My truck was actually built on Oct. 18th, and I do have a VIN # and a copy of the invoice. However, since it was built, it has been in 4B00 event code status (bayed). Evidently, this is a very vague status which could mean numerous things. My dealer said it may be they are just looking at it very hard since it was one of the first 6.2Ls off the line assigned to a customer and not a dealer. They are just guessing. It could also mean "waiting for transport" although I doubt that, not for 8 days. It could also be on a QC hold. I have heard and read stories of vehicles being in "bayed" status for weeks. I have also heard of them being in bayed status and all of a sudden they show up on the dealer's lot. I guess my bottom line is, each and every order has it's own story and history, and it does become a real cat and mouse game to keep up with your own. Good luck with yours!

Z45 Senior Enthusiast

Z45

Posted
Posted (edited)

They said that they had to go to shipping the trucks with the steelies because people were jumping on the trains and stealing the 22's. So now they just ship the 22's to the dealership and they swap out the rims...

While that seems like a logical explanation I doubt if its true. The train cars are enclosed so getting to the vehicles is not easy. Whats more many trucks ship now with 20's so those would be just as tempting at 22's to thieves. Camaros are shipping with 22's.

 

It more has to do with the assemmbly plant not set up to work with those size wheels and low profile tires. Since the amount of them being ordered is relatively small compared to the big picture, its offered as LPO (Limited Production Option). Cheaper to let the dealer install than retool the assembly plant for an LPO.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TL0ab-KvFCo

Edited by elcamino

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...