Integrated barke controller with Electric over Hydraulic trailer

ddp1960 · August 2, 2013

I have a 2010 6.2 CC with NHT and the factory brake controller.

I am in the process of converting my tandem axle boat trailer to new Kodiak Disc brakes with a Carlisle electric over hydraulic actuator.

In order to use the factory brake controller there is a adapter module which essentially puts a load equivalent to a electric brake coil in line to make the factory controller think there is a trailer attached since the actuator uses a circuit board and dosn't put enought load on the factory system for it to think there is a trailer attached.

Is anyone using the factory controller with an electric over hydraulic actuator style trailer brakes?

Anyone done the add a coil to simulate a electric brake load?

I would like to use the integrated controller but am looking for other peoples experience with it?

Any comments and experiences appreciated.

Thanks

ChevyTech77 · August 2, 2013

Won't work. Not correctly anyway. Bypass the factory controller and add an aftermarket. That will be the only reliable way to make it work correctly.

And for the record, the factory GM trailer brake system will work with electric/hydraulic systems starting in 2014 K2XX trucks.

Chris · August 2, 2013

Buy a P3 it does electric and hydraulic. I havent tested the hydraulic part though

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NitroCherokee · August 2, 2013

The P2 will do both as well, and is a little cheaper. I have a P2 and a P3 and like the P2 better

Chris · August 2, 2013

I have used both, have a P2 in the Dodge, and a P3 in my Sierra. My uncle prefers his P2 and I prefer the P3. On Amazon the cost difference is just $20 so I decided to try the P3 and love it

NitroCherokee · August 2, 2013

I have used both, have a P2 in the Dodge, and a P3 in my Sierra. My uncle prefers his P2 and I prefer the P3. On Amazon the cost difference is just $20 so I decided to try the P3 and love it

I can see "younger" guys liking the P3. I'm old and the P2 has less gadget settings

Chris · August 2, 2013

Yea well I guess I qualify for younger since I am 24

NitroCherokee · August 2, 2013

Yea well I guess I qualify for younger since I am 24

Add 12 years, a wife, and 4 kids and you'll want the less gadget, easier to use route too

Chris · August 2, 2013

Yea well I guess I qualify for younger since I am 24
Add 12 years, a wife, and 4 kids and you'll want the less gadget, easier to use route too

Yea I dont have any of that. I qm an IT major though

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ddp1960 · August 9, 2013

ChevyTech77: Why do you say it won't work, what is the concern, this appears to be a tested solution by the actuator manufacturuer Carlisle, with their adapter module. I would like to know what may be the issue as it seems to be working fine. Thanks

ok, well the Carlisle electric over hydraulic actuator has a optional module which makes it compatible with the controller. So I figured I would try it and worse case have to add a aftermarket controller.

So far it seems to work real well. Had to adjust the default gain up, and then down a bit as per the setup instructions, in order to keep it from locking up the trailer brakes at 30Km/hr.

You can really feel the trailer brakes working now when you stop. This is going to make driving in the mountains a lot better.

And what a easy way to bleed the trailer brakes, just trigger the actuator and let it pump whatever fluid and air you want our of each bleeder and you are good to go.

So far it works well and I am happy, much better than the surge brakes. Really nice to have the gain and output settings displayed in the dash rather than on a controller down at your knees.

Anyone considering a similar project should go ahead and do it.

And I fully agree, simple and works are good things for equipment after 3 kids and lots of fun road trips.

Thanks

Doug

ChevyTech77 · August 9, 2013

ChevyTech77: Why do you say it won't work, what is the concern, this appears to be a tested solution by the actuator manufacturuer Carlisle, with their adapter module. I would like to know what may be the issue as it seems to be working fine. Thanks

ok, well the Carlisle electric over hydraulic actuator has a optional module which makes it compatible with the controller. So I figured I would try it and worse case have to add a aftermarket controller.

So far it seems to work real well. Had to adjust the default gain up, and then down a bit as per the setup instructions, in order to keep it from locking up the trailer brakes at 30Km/hr.

You can really feel the trailer brakes working now when you stop. This is going to make driving in the mountains a lot better.

And what a easy way to bleed the trailer brakes, just trigger the actuator and let it pump whatever fluid and air you want our of each bleeder and you are good to go.

So far it works well and I am happy, much better than the surge brakes. Really nice to have the gain and output settings displayed in the dash rather than on a controller down at your knees.

Anyone considering a similar project should go ahead and do it.

And I fully agree, simple and works are good things for equipment after 3 kids and lots of fun road trips.

Thanks

Doug

Only because I am the guy that gets involved when GM dealership technicians cannot figure out why a customers factory trailer brake system won't work due to the system you're using fails. GM didn't design this system to work with your brake system and I've seen the exact same setup you are using fail on multiple vehicles. That is what I am basing my previous response on.

My factory GM system works great on both of my electric only brake system equipped trailers. Personally, after being a chassis tech, primarily on GM vehicles, for over 17 years, I would rather not take chances when it comes to brake system, either. That, is just my personal opinion though.

Also, considering that the adaptor you're using costs about the same as a good aftermarket controller, I really don't see a reason to just do as GM recommends.

ddp1960 · August 11, 2013

Thanks for responding ChevyTech77

I was going to private post to get more detailed information, however hopefully you can disclose as much information as possible to benefit everyone.

I am very concerned about proper brake operation, and safety while towing. I tow a 22" boat in the mountains so I want my brakes to work on all axles. I ordered my truck after checking towing capabilities and making sure I was making the right choices.

As described in my original post I have just installed new Kodiak Disc brakes on both axles of my trailer to ensure I have good working brakes. In addition I have installed the Electric over Hydraulic actuator so that I have much better control over the brakes versus the surge brakes, especially on the long downhill grades to prevent them from heating up and bouncing me all the way down the hill.

So that being said, please take my questions as a genuine need and want to understand and do the right thing to be safe.

Please advise what sort of failure or impact my current configuration might have. Are we talking loss of brakes on the trailer, or what type of failure?

How familiar are you with the Carlisle actuator and adapter and the wiring?

Please provide details of what failures you have seen with a similar configuration?

Where does GM recommend or not to use my configuration and to use a aftermarket controller. I would figure that GM would recommend the use of factory controller over an aftermarket. Are there any documents or TSB's?

What controller would you recommend and why? The P2 or P3 seem to be the best out there for aftermarket.

We are heading out in 1 week, so if I am going to install a new controller I want to get on it right away. Any tips on wiring in place of the factory controller?

I was planning to take advantage of the ITBC integration with the vehicles brake anti-lock brake system.

my 2010 Sierra ratings:

GVWR 3311 Kg, GAWR Front 1792 Kg, GAWR Rear 1905 Kg

Recent trip scale readings:

Front 1520 Kg, Rear 1730 Kg, Trailer axles 2370 Kg

Thanks for any details and help, it is appreciated and I am sure will benefit other members.