Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Sorry to bear the bad news, but you bought the wrong light kit. That's for the 14-15. 16+ has a different plug.

 

No the 23295942 is the 6 pin one for the 2016. The one for the 14-15 is a 8 pin one. So I have the right part, just having trouble finding where the plug goes.

Posted (edited)

All the way to the right? According to

 

https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/735/UI%20Bulletin%20_129b.pdf

 

that would make it the x400 plug which is already used by the tail lights.

That would be the one, if you have something plugged in there you are already wired for cargo lights. Here's some pics from mine I just took. I did mine 2 weeks ago.

 

post-160442-147856583464_thumb.jpg

 

post-160442-147856585581_thumb.jpg

post-160442-147856583464_thumb.jpg

post-160442-147856585581_thumb.jpg

post-160442-147856583464_thumb.jpg

post-160442-147856585581_thumb.jpg

post-160442-147856583464_thumb.jpg

post-160442-147856585581_thumb.jpg

Edited by Hoytshooter
Posted

That would be the one, if you have something plugged in there you are already wired for cargo lights. Here's some pics from mine I just took. I did mine 2 weeks ago.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20161107_173724-picsay.jpg

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20161107_174043-picsay.jpg

 

Thank you sir. I am going to go check what is connected in the X400 but it's def. not the cargo lights cause the only lights I have in the bed is the lights next to the middle break lights.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I ordered the OEM jumper harness, DT connectors and led strip lights and did a custom install given that my LT didn't come with the cargo lights. It turned out great. I used extruded aluminum channel to mount and secure the lights. Also, ran one strip across the center of the bed using my tonneau cover seam. It provides even more light in the front and the rotates up with the cover when opening from the back or front. I used a DT connector for the center strip so I can simply disconnect it to take the cover completely off.

post-65205-148350146522_thumb.jpg

post-65205-148350146522_thumb.jpg

post-65205-148350146522_thumb.jpg

post-65205-148350146522_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

I ordered the OEM jumper harness, DT connectors and led strip lights and did a custom install given that my LT didn't come with the cargo lights. It turned out great. I used extruded aluminum channel to mount and secure the lights. Also, ran one strip across the center of the bed using my tonneau cover seam. It provides even more light in the front and the rotates up with the cover when opening from the back or front. I used a DT connector for the center strip so I can simply disconnect it to take the cover completely off.

attachicon.gif20161202_171301.jpg

Looks good!!

Look at all that fresh paint to scratch and scuff

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I bought some truck bed LEDs from Autozone, 4 pods on each side, and hooked them up to the hitch harness. I just put a switch in the bed for now under the rail until I can wire them into the cargo lights with a constant so I can turn them on whenever. But for now they work great and the light output is awesome for having a black bedliner. I'll post pics later

Bed lights

Edited by 15BlueSilverado
Posted (edited)

I bought some truck bed LEDs from Autozone, 4 pods on each side, and hooked them up to the hitch harness. I just put a switch in the bed for now under the rail until I can wire them into the cargo lights with a constant so I can turn them on whenever. But for now they work great and the light output is awesome for having a black bedliner. I'll post pics later

I like that. I want to be able to turn mine off and on from the bed. I don't want to have to walk up to the cab and turn them off and on.

Just picked up my truck last week and want to put some lighting in the bed.

 

Which ones did you use from Autozone

Edited by Albytruck
Posted

I like that. I want to be able to turn mine off and on from the bed. I don't want to have to walk up to the cab and turn them off and on.

Just picked up my truck last week and want to put some lighting in the bed.

I paid like $25 bucks for the set and they're awesome. I'll post pics of the switch later when I get home.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Posted

I paid like $25 bucks for the set and they're awesome. I'll post pics of the switch later when I get home.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

Cool!! Thanks I am heading out of town tonight. so I may not respond for a few days

Posted (edited)

I got my kit GM P/N 22933562 from a guy on Ebay for $40.00 shipped. Harness, fasteners, and lights included, all new unused parts. Interesting that the kit was not shipped in the factory box. Hmmm...

Installed it, plugged it in, and it works. What else could I ask for for $40.00 ???

 

Thinking about buying the other one he has on Ebay right now for the same price.........

Edited by Enough
Posted

Here's more pics of my setup. Just need to install some better clips to hold the wires. b4aedaacb6f19180e0b4f71c535c3be1.jpg0dd601177bff4fa6ef0b9dd40f7db081.jpge27c58995cdb8c1162d5f7c716765f0a.jpgfbce0a468992b56e040b2c22699f9e23.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

I like that. I want to be able to turn mine off and on from the bed. I don't want to have to walk up to the cab and turn them off and on.

Just picked up my truck last week and want to put some lighting in the bed.

 

Which ones did you use from Autozone

The ones I got were something like these but a different brand. They were the black pods with the angle on them so when you mount them flush, they're aimed downward which I like.

https://www.amazon.com/Alpena-77003-UtilityLite-LED/dp/B00D1SWESY/ref=sr_1_83?ie=UTF8&qid=1483621621&sr=8-83&keywords=truck+bed+lighting

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 413 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...