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LED Under Rail Bed Lighting


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What effect will the summer heat have on the adhesive? We tend to get triple digits during the summer, out here.

Yeah I'm slightly concerned about that. I run a tonneau cover so if they fall off they won't blow away but, I did tape up the wires with gorilla tape so I don't think they'll go anywhere, if so there are mounting holes and they come w/sheet metal screws but, I think you'd either have to fashion some custom mounting solution or move the lights to the bed sides because I think the screws would poke through the bed caps.

 

 

I've thought about trying to attach 'em w/ magnets somehow but, We'll see how it holds up.

Edited by Imcrazy
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Yeah I'm slightly concerned about that. I run a tonneau cover so if they fall off they won't blow away but, I did tape up the wires with gorilla tape so I don't think they'll go anywhere, if so there are mounting holes and they come w/sheet metal screws but, I think you'd either have to fashion some custom mounting solution or move the lights to the bed sides because I think the screws would poke through the bed caps.

 

 

I've thought about trying to attach 'em w/ magnets somehow but, We'll see how it holds up.

 

I was concerned about this too since it gets over 100 here in the summer. My OEM bed lights are attached with screws to tabs that are angled between the side panels and top rails on either side. When I added lights, I found a similar area that I was able to use by drilling pilot holes and sheet metal screws. The wires are hidden and covered with plastic flex tubing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I see guys posting that they received a 6 pin harness with their light kit instead of the 8 pin harness, is there a different part number for 2016's? I am picking up my 2016 Silverado on saturday and I cannot decide if I should purchase the Gm kit or wire in the 8 light amazon kit. I don't want to pre-order a harness if it will be an 8 wire and I need 6 wire or vice versa. Thank you in advance,

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For 2016 this is the new Rear Chassis Electrical upfitter Connections.

 

http://gmupfitter.co...lletin _129.pdf

 

"The use of an electrical junction block at the rear of the vehicle frame has been replaced with individual connectors for the 2016 model year for the full-size LD and HD pickup trucks."

 

 

If you have a 16 you need the 6 pin kit. 14-15 is the 8 pin kit.

 

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Edited by MWZotti
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For 2016 this is the new Rear Chassis Electrical upfitter Connections.

 

http://gmupfitter.co...lletin _129.pdf

 

"The use of an electrical junction block at the rear of the vehicle frame has been replaced with individual connectors for the 2016 model year for the full-size LD and HD pickup trucks."

 

 

If you have a 16 you need the 6 pin kit. 14-15 is the 8 pin kit.

 

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Thank you, Once I pick up the truck, I'll take a look at the 6 pin dummy connecter and likely just install gm terminals and wires to power an aftermarket set. I am used their 30 terminal trays I worked as a GM tech for 11 years.

Edited by molsonice02
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Thank you, Once I pick up the truck, I'll take a look at the 6 pin dummy connecter and likely just install gm terminals and wires to power an aftermarket set. I am used their 30 terminal trays I worked as a GM tech for 11 years.

I don't want to spend the time making my own harness. I'm waiting for someone to post the part number for the harness on the 16 and then use the extang or tuxedo 4 or 6 light kit from there.

 

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I called my local gm, my discounted price was 33$ Can, but I am not sure if that was the correct one. I'll message him today and ask if its the new 16, 6 pin harness. If you get ahold of two terminals though, the hardest part will be getting them sealed in the connector.

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Cleaning out my garage after trading in my 2014 Silverado...found one of these plugs (no LEDs) from the GM Bed LED kit for a 2014 - 2015...if anyone interested PM me and we'll work something out to cover the cost of shipping...

 

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post-106333-0-56398500-1458829518_thumb.jpeg

Edited by chuckl1218
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You can find those rubbery nubs that GM uses online at electronics stores and they do a great job of sealing the connector. You just need to remember to put it on the wire before you crimp on your terminals. Some terminals actually crimp onto both the bare wire and the nub.

Edited by je1279
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  • 4 weeks later...

After having issues of getting the correct oem kit for my 2015 I opted to go with the kit from Xkglow. I wanted to make sure I could turn it on and off in the rear of the truck and it also has a auto timer that well shut it off.

 

 

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I put in the same XKglow light kit that loghead showed in post #274. They've only been installed two days but I'm happy with the install. We'll be doing some tent camping and I wanted the on/off switch back by the tailgate instead of needing to get into the cab to hit the cargo light switch.

 

I tied into the trailer connector for power and installed a weatherproof fuse so I can disconnect the entire setup by pulling the fuse if it ever develops a problem. I ended up using hot glue to mount the led lights up under the rail. Typical low temp hot glue is supposed to melt around 248F so I don't think the summer heat will cause them to fall. We'll find out in due time.

 

I mounted my on/off switch in a recessed area just to the right of where loghead installed his. When we have the bed full of stuff, I didn't want something to bump that switch and turn the lights on. So, it's a bit recessed but still easily reachable from the rear of the bed.

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Does anyone know how many watts the wire will safely take? My truck has the factory under bed lights but I would like to add a 18 watt led to the top of my cap to light up my decked system better. Thanks for any help.

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Does anyone know how many watts the wire will safely take? My truck has the factory under bed lights but I would like to add a 18 watt led to the top of my cap to light up my decked system better. Thanks for any help.

I'm not sure of the gauge size on the wire but if it's 18G is safe for approximately 10A. 12Vx10A=120W. The lights that came with the kit probably are less than 20W each.

 

For reference others have added additional lights to the existing harness to increase the bed lighting to 4 lights with no issue. The fuse for the circuit should pop long before that wire gets to the point of failure.

 

 

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I'm not sure of the gauge size on the wire but if it's 18G is safe for approximately 10A. 12Vx10A=120W. The lights that came with the kit probably are less than 20W each.

 

For reference others have added additional lights to the existing harness to increase the bed lighting to 4 lights with no issue. The fuse for the circuit should pop long before that wire gets to the point of failure.

 

 

Sent from my BlackBerry Priv. The power of Android combined with the security of BlackBerry.

Great thanks for the wire gauge and advice. I think I will be good to go!

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