Jump to content

2014 Toppers, Caps, Campers

Silver space ship

Recommended Posts

OkieDavid Enthusiast

OkieDavid

Posted
Posted

 

Jason has a Dealer in Tyler. Which model is yours and what was the installed cost?

 

I started with just the basic Pace shell, $1200, and added carpet ($100), the Luma Bar with the LED lighting ($80), front tip in slider window ($100), and the Yakima Track with Tower Locks ($450). Got $200 in discounts on the package so ended paying $1,730 before tax.

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 307
  • Created
  • Last Reply
jim larson Enthusiast

jim larson

Posted
Posted

I bought a new 2014 crew cab. Because of visibility issues I elected to go with a fold a cover rather than a topper.

 

However I do a lot of hunting in the fall and would like a cheap topper to use during the hunting season for more space and a place for the dog to ride.

 

Just looking for something to fit and take off and throw behind the garage when the season is over. Would a 2012 topper fit? I know the back window would be a issue; but I thought I could modify it a bit to make it work. Just need something cheap.

PMD G8 Enthusiast

PMD G8

Posted
Posted

My Silverado is a Suburban replacement. Wasnt happy to see that the new gm suvs have higher load floors and less interior volume bc of the fold flat 3rd row. With 2 kids and 3 dogs i needed all the space i could get. I also didnt like the center console on the suvs, less storage space for my junk and knick knacks. Plus the 6.2 wasnt available on the Suburban so i decided to do a truck with a camper on the back, bed rug and possibly later a bedslide.

 

I currently have an A.R.E. Z Series shell on order.

PMD G8 Enthusiast

PMD G8

Posted
Posted

This is exactly like the one I am getting, except mine is white and I am getting a remote unlock for it.

 

 

 

Another Z Series on a 2013 model, better interior video with this one.

 

 

 

And a video of the V Series on a 2014

 

 

Remmag Enthusiast

Remmag

Posted
Posted

I put a leer xr on mine

If I can remember how to post pics I will take some and put them on here for you

 

Good luck

Last C5 Enthusiast

Last C5

Posted
Posted

 

I'm thinking the 07-13 will fit, not 100% sure though. Thought I read the bed interior and dimensions are the same.

The 07-13 canopies won't fit the 14 1500 series but they will fit the 2500 and 3500 series. The canopy I was getting ready to install had to be reordered because they had ordered a unit for a 2500 series truck. So I'll be waiting a couple more weeks for a canopy. :nonod:

PMattras Enthusiast

PMattras

Posted
Posted

I had the Leer with the same set up with the window and rack system on my 2008 Chevy Silverado. I had the one even with the cab. They are nice but I found out it was very hard to put the items on the rack system. It is high and you need a ladder etc. to tie it up properly. I also purchased the stoppers you can put on the rack system to prevent it from sliding and secure your load better. I removed the rack system when I didnt use it. I noticed the gas mileage was a little less but you get more use out of the back with the topper. I did a lot of camping in mine. Sometimes it is hard to fit things that are tall like a rider mowers, snow blower, ATVs etc. Everything has a tradeoff and depends what works for you. It is nice to get the back up camera so you can see better when backing up. It is also harder to hand wash because you need a ladder to do so. I also got the sliding window so I could wash the outside back window of the pickup without taking off the top.

upsfeedr Enthusiast

upsfeedr

Posted
Posted

I have the ARE Z Series on my truck it was 2500 otd it has led lighting and remote unlock and lock..

 

 

post-127868-0-14045200-1394894752_thumb.jpg

post-127868-0-14045200-1394894752_thumb.jpg

post-127868-0-14045200-1394894752_thumb.jpg

post-127868-0-14045200-1394894752_thumb.jpg

bowflygsp Enthusiast

bowflygsp

Posted
Posted

I bought a new 2014 crew cab. Because of visibility issues I elected to go with a fold a cover rather than a topper.

 

However I do a lot of hunting in the fall and would like a cheap topper to use during the hunting season for more space and a place for the dog to ride.

 

Just looking for something to fit and take off and throw behind the garage when the season is over. Would a 2012 topper fit? I know the back window would be a issue; but I thought I could modify it a bit to make it work. Just need something cheap.

 

I am in the exact same situation. I have an extang solid fold on my double cab w/ std box but would like the option of putting on a topper during hunting season in case I need more room, dry place to change clothes if it's raining, etc.

 

Has anyone tried to set a 2007-13 topper on a '14 to see if it would be functional?

 

Even if it wasn't 'aesthetically perfect', as long as it stayed dry and secured my hunting gear, I'd be ok with it.

Last C5 Enthusiast

Last C5

Posted
Posted

 

I am in the exact same situation. I have an extang solid fold on my double cab w/ std box but would like the option of putting on a topper during hunting season in case I need more room, dry place to change clothes if it's raining, etc.

 

Has anyone tried to set a 2007-13 topper on a '14 to see if it would be functional?

 

Even if it wasn't 'aesthetically perfect', as long as it stayed dry and secured my hunting gear, I'd be ok with it.

Yes, the company I ordered my canopy from got the first order wrong and a 2013 bed style canopy came in. When they put it on my truck it was a shade narrower than my new canopy and the edges didn't quite cover the bed rail caps properly. It did fit, it just didn't look right. Most of the less expensive canopies don't come down over the edges of the bed sides and would probably fit OK. Test fit before you buy.

bowflygsp Enthusiast

bowflygsp

Posted
Posted

Yes, the company I ordered my canopy from got the first order wrong and a 2013 bed style canopy came in. When they put it on my truck it was a shade narrower than my new canopy and the edges didn't quite cover the bed rail caps properly. It did fit, it just didn't look right. Most of the less expensive canopies don't come down over the edges of the bed sides and would probably fit OK. Test fit before you buy.

 

Great info. Thanks!!

 

Did the height and length line up halfway decent?

Last C5 Enthusiast

Last C5

Posted
Posted

 

Great info. Thanks!!

 

Did the height and length line up halfway decent?

Height and length looked OK it was the sides the installer immediately thought weren't right and called the boss to find out why. They only had it on there about a minute before they lifted it off and called Leer to find out what was going on. If we ever see another sunny day here in Washington I'll post of picture of the truck with it's new canopy.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
    • rdonarski
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By rdonarski · Posted

      This landing is worse than most. Patchy blacktop with washouts, soft gravel/sand at bottom that washes out with every heavy rain. I tell everyone to put it in 4WD. A lot of them think they can pull out their trailer in 2WD. They end up digging a hole and then putting it in 4WD.  The lake is a pristine lake and has a lot of money on it. There are several wake boats and lot of large tritoons. The people with the money don't want it improved because they don't want more traffic.    Boat Landing 1.jfif Boat Landing 2.jfif Boat Landing 3.jfif
    • PBNB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By PBNB · Posted

      How wide are your rims?   Toyo specs 8.5-10.0-11.0 inches. My thought would be rim might be pulling the tire inwards creating a center that is more pronounced.    I also noticed that the spec sheet says max 65psi. So you could be right lowering the pressure to ~40 psi. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...