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Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp

MotoMedic

By MotoMedic
in Modifications & Accessories

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Rebel619 Enthusiast

Rebel619

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, squeak93 said:

I think it’s on the first or second page of this thread.  It’s on the amp. Plug on the driver side. 

Still can't find it haha, I'll just keep looking. Thanks for your help squeak

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Waymon Enthusiast

Waymon

Posted
Posted

I have been unsuccessful in searching where I should hook my power wire up. This is the battery from a 2017 silverado. They have changed it up. 

 

Any ideas?

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GMcD Enthusiast

GMcD

Posted
Posted

Im going to attempt to do an install soon on my 14 Silverado with no bose. Im new to all this stuff but from what im gathering, ill need something to convert the signal coming from the stereo. Will this work?

https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0

 

also, where am i tapping this device into. Some say the front speakers and some say the rear. I dont want to lose any volume or clarity out of my front speakers. Thanks

cbrsilv15 Senior Enthusiast

cbrsilv15

Posted
Posted

I used a lc2i and highly recommend it. It works great and the accubass is awesome since factory radios turn bass down to prevent speaker failure. I tapped into my front speakers on the plug behind the screen. I just ran speaker wire back behind the rear seat where it’s mounted. Power wire was ran through the grommet on the drivers side. I grounded it on a rear seat bolt also. 

GMcD Enthusiast

GMcD

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, cbrsilv15 said:

I used a lc2i and highly recommend it. It works great and the accubass is awesome since factory radios turn bass down to prevent speaker failure. I tapped into my front speakers on the plug behind the screen. I just ran speaker wire back behind the rear seat where it’s mounted. Power wire was ran through the grommet on the drivers side. I grounded it on a rear seat bolt also. 

Did you lose any volume or clarity out of the front speakers?

GMcD Enthusiast

GMcD

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, cbrsilv15 said:

Nothing. It just intercepts the signal and uses it for the lc2i.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where did you install the converter? I notice it needs a power supply. Did you piggy back off the amp and run speaker wire from the headunit back to the converter?

cbrsilv15 Senior Enthusiast

cbrsilv15

Posted
Posted

That’s exactly what I did. I just jumped the power wire from the amp to the lc2i. Lc2i is sitting on the floor behind the speaker box. 

squeak93 Enthusiast

squeak93

Posted
Posted

I finished up my install today.  I highly recommend running a remote wire from the driver side under dash hardness as described earlier in this thread.  Using the speaker level inputs for the lc2i mine would come on but not go off without a big delay when you killed the key and opened the door. 

 

 Now with the remote wire installed it works perfectly.  

 

I also changed my ground.  The seat bolts were a pita so I did some sanding and used the jack mount (back bolt) to ground everything.  It also seemed to take care of some clipping issues I was having with my amp when it was hitting hard. 

 

I messed with the lc2i but ended up turning it down and removing some distortion.  

 

I also installed my amp steps today. That was actually a very easy and straightforward install. Aside from the time it took to solder everything vs using the crimp connectors I went very smooth.  Getting the sliding bolt holders on the rails lined up with the brackets was a tad tricky by myself. 

 

Overall a good day for the truck. 

  • 2 weeks later...
GMcD Enthusiast

GMcD

Posted
Posted

Does anyone know if 17’ is enough power wire to run from the battery to the rear seat in a crew cab?

Armo325 Enthusiast

Armo325

Posted
Posted
On 12/24/2017 at 11:43 PM, GMcD said:

Does anyone know if 17’ is enough power wire to run from the battery to the rear seat in a crew cab?

It depends on the route you take.  I have a double cab (a few inches shorter than your cab, obviously) and I ran power from the battery across the engine compartment, through the firewall and along the driver side and back in behind the rear seat to the center of the cab where the amp was.  I ran a 20' wire and had a couple feet left over.  This is a bit of a guess but 17' is going to be close.  I think it would work.  That said, I'd hate to do all that work to come up a foot short so you might want to do some measuring first.  If you go straight back from the battery along the passenger side, you will have plenty to work with.

GMcD Enthusiast

GMcD

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the reply. Ill just try to get a 20’ cable. Thanks!!

tdsracing New Member

tdsracing

Posted
Posted

Started build today,  storage is a must so I'm building a box to set on hump and become back console.  Got box built but tomorrow glueing 

Armo325 Enthusiast

Armo325

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, tdsracing said:

Started build today,  storage is a must so I'm building a box to set on hump and become back console.  Got box built but tomorrow glueing 

Please post pics when you're finished if you don't mind.

 

I searched all over for something to go in a double cap that would give me a sub enclosure AND storage but came up empty.  You can get dual subs or you can get storage that spans the entire back seat but not half and half.  I ended up building my own - something I haven't done before.  The box turned out great and I'm happy with the sub's performance.  The carpet (I also couldn't find any brown that matched the cocoa/dune interior so I just went with gray) looks a little sloppy but you can't really see it once the box is installed.

 

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