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Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp

MotoMedic

By MotoMedic
in Modifications & Accessories

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FORGIVEN06 Enthusiast

FORGIVEN06

Posted
Posted

Looking for some honest opinions.. I’m looking at this set up: https://www.hifisoundconnection.com/2014-UP-GMC-Sierra-Crew-Cab-Kicker-CompR-CWR12-Dual-12-Sub-Box-CX1200.1-KICKER16-PACK3221

Not sure if I’m buying trash but seems decent. Anyone help? I’m not looking to blow the windows off but I want some bass if I’m in the mood, thanks in advance


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Armo325 Enthusiast

Armo325

Posted
Posted

Not to point out the obvious but that link includes a refurbished amp, not new.  That would likely explain the price.

 

I have no issue with buying things used but electronic gear, in my mind, only lives so long so I typically buy new when it comes to speaker, amps, etc.

Sierra706 Senior Enthusiast

Sierra706

Posted
Posted
FWIW I answered my own question I think. Seems my wires are coming off of the amp. I was under the impression based upon the YouTube vids and all the post that you had to tap behind the dash.  I’m going to tap off my amp for the front speakers (validated already) to see if it power my loc. 


I tapped the factory bose sub wires coming off the amp rather than the front door wires. Didn’t have to adjust for gain and it was 1 less splice to botch.


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FORGIVEN06 Enthusiast

FORGIVEN06

Posted
Posted
Not to point out the obvious but that link includes a refurbished amp, not new.  That would likely explain the price.
 
I have no issue with buying things used but electronic gear, in my mind, only lives so long so I typically buy new when it comes to speaker, amps, etc.


Duh, I didn’t even see that. Thanks


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wildlyfe200 Enthusiast

wildlyfe200

Posted
Posted
Does anyone know if 17’ is enough power wire to run from the battery to the rear seat in a crew cab?
20ft did it for me and I suggest leaving your self a few more feet.

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  • 2 weeks later...
wchughes55 New Member

wchughes55

Posted
Posted

Newbie here, just recently came back to GM after suffering through 3 years in a sedan and a botched attempt at a F150.  Forgive me if I missed it somewhere in this thread or elsewhere...

 

Can anyone confirm the wire gauge for the front door wires coming off of the Bose amp (no sub)?  I want to make sure I order the right Posi-Taps (which is what I gather I should be using to tap into those wires).

 

Thanks!

wildlyfe200 Enthusiast

wildlyfe200

Posted
Posted
Newbie here, just recently came back to GM after suffering through 3 years in a sedan and a botched attempt at a F150.  Forgive me if I missed it somewhere in this thread or elsewhere...

 

Can anyone confirm the wire gauge for the front door wires coming off of the Bose amp (no sub)?  I want to make sure I order the right Posi-Taps (which is what I gather I should be using to tap into those wires).

 

Thanks!

The blue ones. They almost fit the sub wires that are a little thicker guage. They will be perfect for the speaker wires. I bought both.

 

Black posi tap- for sub wires off Bose amp w/ sub

Blue posi tap - for speaker wires no sub

 

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wchughes55 New Member

wchughes55

Posted
Posted
51 minutes ago, wildlyfe200 said:

The blue ones. They almost fit the sub wires that are a little thicker guage. They will be perfect for the speaker wires. I bought both.

 

Black posi tap- for sub wires off Bose amp w/ sub

Blue posi tap - for speaker wires no sub

 

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Thanks!  Those bad boys are on the pricy side and hard to come by, so I wanted to make sure I got it right the first time!

wildlyfe200 Enthusiast

wildlyfe200

Posted
Posted
Thanks!  Those bad boys are on the pricy side and hard to come by, so I wanted to make sure I got it right the first time!
I bought em both to have around they are handy suckers but you and I both know I wont be able to find them the next time I need em.... Hehe. The are pricey I bought off Amazon. 3rd party seller I think.

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  • 1 month later...
Fattyz28 Enthusiast

Fattyz28

Posted
Posted

I just wanted to thank everyone on this post who shared insight on their install. I successfully put one in today. It took a while but it works. I’ll have to clean it up later. Just happy to fill in the missing piece. I had an amp and sub just sitting in the garage. So why not. 

  • 4 weeks later...
coreyperman New Member

coreyperman

Posted
Posted

Wow am I glad I found this.  I have a 2016 crew cab no bose and I am beginning a big install.  Keeping factory head unit.  Audio Control LC6i converter, 3 SKAR audio VD-8 subwoofers in custom MDF enclosure tuned to 35hz,  JL AUDIO 500/V2 on the lows,  I refurbished an old Rockford PUNCH 4080 that I am going to use for the highs.   Infinity components in the doors. 

 

I have only one question.  Does it matter which signal you use to feed the subwoofer outputs?   Are the rear and front signals the same?   I would like to keep the subs aligned with the rear fader if possible.

Armo325 Enthusiast

Armo325

Posted
Posted
On 3/23/2018 at 8:28 AM, coreyperman said:

I have only one question.  Does it matter which signal you use to feed the subwoofer outputs?   Are the rear and front signals the same?   I would like to keep the subs aligned with the rear fader if possible.

 

I added a sub (single 10") to my 2017 double cab.  Like you, I wanted the rear fader aligned with the sub.

 

I tapped the rear speakers for signal and it worked great.  I love the sound.  I didn't get in to the weeds with a signal analysis tool or anything but there is definitely a full bass signal in the rear speakers.

Kyleorsini Enthusiast

Kyleorsini

Posted
Posted

Wanting to make sure I’ve got everything needed for a new stereo in my ‘16 double cab non bose 8” screen. this isn’t my first rodeo with stereos however my previous Cruze I never did anything on and had that for 3 years, and prior to that had a huge stereo in a 06 g6 and my tundra. Both with aftermarket HU which is so simple in terms of harness’s and locs etc. I’ve got most of the stuff kicking around that was supposed to go in my Cruze.

Just put in a order with knu konceptz
1/0 power wire , 4gauge for my 2 amps, rca cables new 14 gauge speaker wire. 2 fuse blocks for the inside to distribute power and another for ground. A in-line for upfront on the 1/0. Got ring terminals heat shrink and wire loom already.

So plan is to run a active setup as I was gonna do in my Cruze with a mini dsp 2x4 for the front doors 6.5 silver flute mids and seas prestige tweeters (can’t remember what model) powered by a ppi phantom 900.4. The mini dsp will take care of the eq fine tuning.

Sub stage will be a ssa icon 10” powered by a older surfboard type ppi pcx 2400 (providing the amp fits somewhere but it should) the amp will allow me to eq the sub on that .

Also have a loc lc2i, will I need/want the metra harness for behind the oem headunit?





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  • 6 months later...
Ge0rge Enthusiast

Ge0rge

Posted
Posted

Just had a 500w amp and 12" shallow sub installed (both Rockford Fosgate) and then tuned, it is incredible with the Bose system. Bass hits hard if I want or blends seamlessly. It all sounds so clean as well, worth it to have a shop do the install. It blew away all my expectations. I used a subthump box until I get time to build an enclosure I designed and used an aftermarket Bose harness to tie into the Bose amp. Not to mention it all looks stock.

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