Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, Skidsareforkids said:


Love the wheels! I’m thinking of getting those too. How do you like them? What size of tires are those?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I went with these cuz I was tired of the chrome CK375s I had on! I love the way it looks. I just need to black out the honeycomb on the grill. I ended up getting Michelin Defenders 285/45/22 from Discount. Dealership recommended I balance them with 20lbs or less. No issues whatsoever and rides smooth.

Posted
8 hours ago, tyler.frost92 said:

what mudflaps are those?

They're made by Bulletproof Bumpers.. but the shop i deal with has them custom made with their logo on it, Farleys Truck & Auto Addictions. 

 

CNC cut stainless steel kickback to clear larger tires, heavy duty rubber with all stainless hardware. These are the 12" wide, black powdercoat... but you can get them in plenty of different sizes.

Posted
On 2/8/2018 at 10:23 PM, Josh154 said:

285 does in fact determine height as well. Go look at 285/55, 295/55 and 305/55. Both the 295 and 305 is taller than the 285. The 305/55 comes in nearly a inch taller than 285/55. 

The dimensions of a 285/65r18 tire are 11.22” wide (section width) & 32.6” tall (outside dia)

The section width is 285mm wide  (There are 25.4mm to an inch)

STEP 1) 285mm divided by 25.4” = 11.22” (section width)

STEP 2) Multiply 11.22 (section width) by .65 (aspect ratio)

11.22 x .65 = 7.29” (section height)

To find the outside diameter

Multiply 7.29 (section height) x 2 then add rim diameter

STEP 3) 7.29” x 2 =  14.58” + 18.0” = 32.58” round out to 32.6  (outside dia)

Posted

New to the forum. Here is my truck:

 2014 1500 LT "custom"

Bilstein 5100's, front on highest setting, Rough Country rear block. (removed the front spacer when adding the Bilsteins)

Fuel Titan 20x10

Nitto Ridge Grappler 33x12.50

FullSizeRender.jpeg

Posted
7 hours ago, abailey8 said:

New to the forum. Here is my truck:

 2014 1500 LT "custom"

Bilstein 5100's, front on highest setting, Rough Country rear block. (removed the front spacer when adding the Bilsteins)

Fuel Titan 20x10

Nitto Ridge Grappler 33x12.50

FullSizeRender.jpeg

You shouldn't be squatting with the RC block in the rear and 5100's up front. If anything the front should still be lower. 

Posted
10 hours ago, abailey8 said:

New to the forum. Here is my truck:

 2014 1500 LT "custom"

Bilstein 5100's, front on highest setting, Rough Country rear block. (removed the front spacer when adding the Bilsteins)

Fuel Titan 20x10

Nitto Ridge Grappler 33x12.50

FullSizeRender.jpeg

Any rubbing up front with 20x10 and 33x12.5?

Posted

5ea98284134d67d0d926b0a54cff6146.jpg0d3224a925b9f608ab4e10d61c032537.jpg 2014 Silverado 6" BDS with 35x12.5 Cooper st maxx tires and 18x9 fuel octane wheels.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
4 hours ago, Daly said:

You shouldn't be squatting with the RC block in the rear and 5100's up front. If anything the front should still be lower. 

I agree. I believe they left the top spacer on top of the shocks and only pulled out the bottom spacer part of the RC level kit. I had the shocks put on at the same times as the wheels. There is a little squat, this picture makes it look like there is more than it does in person.

Posted
1 hour ago, Josh154 said:

Any rubbing up front with 20x10 and 33x12.5?

The shop I had put the shocks and wheels on did some trimming, not sure exactly what, but even with the trimming it only rubs in reverse at almost full lock on the left. Weird, not the right but only left. And its very little. Once I get past a certain angle and get to full lock theres no rub. 

Posted

Has any of you went from a Zone 4.5” lift to the 6.5”? Tossing the idea around... PFA


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
New to the forum. Here is my truck:
 2014 1500 LT "custom"
Bilstein 5100's, front on highest setting, Rough Country rear block. (removed the front spacer when adding the Bilsteins)
Fuel Titan 20x10
Nitto Ridge Grappler 33x12.50
FullSizeRender.thumb.jpeg.19decc0b7a8ade20e0ff8010c529b78e.jpeg

Is that chrome on the mirror stick on?


2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71 6.2L
4.5" Zone
22x10 American Force Grips
33x12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers
Instagram @wildchevys
Posted
Has any of you went from a Zone 4.5” lift to the 6.5”? Tossing the idea around... PFA


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s just blocks and strut spacers, very easy. I did it on my ‘13


2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71 6.2L
4.5" Zone
22x10 American Force Grips
33x12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers
Instagram @wildchevys
Posted

16 Silverado CCSB

-Zone 4.5" Suspension Lift

-Hostile Sprocket 20x12 -44

-AMP Attack M/T 285/55

IMG_9994.jpg

IMG_9995.jpg

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • same here , i have a 2020 first gen and the cost to repair these engines far excedes replacement
    • But Grumpy I did show several subdivisions that had homes starting in the 170K range. If you bought a Townhouse or Condo you could go cheaper. Same with a car 3000 dollars in the 70s translates to around 20K today. There are several models at that price. You actually get more for the money. In the 70s I drove a 3000$ car bought a 28K home and made 4.50 per hour. Thank goodness for overtime. Today I could buy a 170K house drive a 20K car and make 25 dollars an hour operating the same machine today. The difference the house, car, machine would be better and have AC. And I wouldn’t be taxed on overtime. And statistically your wife works too. Easing the burden. I thought we agreed to disagree. I brought receipts earlier, showing examples. I think you’re more stubborn than me. I was done with this debate. 
    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...