Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 9/18/2018 at 5:45 AM, luckyshotbrooks said:

ReadyLift 2.25” leveling kit with the new upper control arms. 275/70-18 Nitto Trail Grapplers.

 

What Uca you running?

 

Posted
On 9/25/2018 at 10:06 AM, theDeLo said:

New to me 2015 Midnight Edition!

Waiting on a leveling kit:

 

BA535621-3AD1-4B9C-AD6C-A0C0AEF2B375.png

8AD8AD45-3778-4264-9401-8CBFD05531C6.png

That is a good looking truck, I love the total black out look. I just got a 2018 that is all black except for the wheels and I cant wait to change them to black!

 

I just did the Rough Country 2" kit on the front and love is so far! I can tell any difference at all in the ride or drive of the truck. I highly recommend it if you don't already have something in mind. 

I got it on amazon for $50 bucks. https://amzn.to/2OkYKZv 

Posted

2018 SLT.  2.5 inch level kit, 275/65/20's with BFG KO 2's.  20x9 Ultra ubter Rims with a + 187 OFFSET.  Tinted front windows to match rear and added window guards and bed cover.  Cant think of much else to do to it.  

Robs GMC.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I'm one of those that researched and researched and used this 2014+ thread many times to browse pics and fitments. Figured I'd throw mine on here to help the next guy. 2018 SLT 4x4 Z71 package Onyx Black with Cocoa Dune interior. 

 

First pic is the day it was delivered to my driveway. Here's what I've done:

--Tint front two windows

--Removed front air dam

--Removed stock step rails

--Color Matched GMC front and back

--2" Rough Country Leveling Kit up front (the 1" spacer under the strut) - stock in the rear

--Fuel Maverick Gloss Black and Milled (20x9 with +1 offset) - I wanted to go for more stance and read where +1 Mavericks would fit. The gloss black complements that new black paint as opposed to the matte. The milled edges bring out the chrome just enough to tie it all together (I'm not a huge fan of the all blackout).

--Nitto Ridge Grapplers 295/55/20. Also didn't realize the Ridge Grapplers had two different reversible sidewalls...I decided on the more uniform sidewall that has more "chunk" so to speak. They are absolutely awesome looking tires. Have some road noise but nothing major. 

 

I noticed on my camera that the gloss black nerf style step bars arrived today so I'll throw those on this weekend. I wanted to go for more a stockish look but with a little meaner stance and the +1's accomplished that. At full lock there is a very minor rub on the inner fender liner but I'll zip tie it back and be good to go. 

IMG_6080.thumb.jpg.3d1b6829e0d2934236ff10bd99671c0a.jpgIMG_6340.thumb.jpg.8cfd0b5e9eaf33f9922856cd295f81e2.jpg

IMG_6342.thumb.jpg.d5681b0d7efd05e0b60b50a6c2e3f90a.jpg

5bae841397b71_IMG_6338(2).thumb.jpg.106b900df6d4b59c26f7e849c69fd32f.jpg

IMG_6339.thumb.jpg.05c6647277ab0583520cd07eed608039.jpg

5bae842089be7_IMG_6344(2).thumb.jpg.53bf76b13b9d419dbab116e11a58ada5.jpg

Edited by Golfguy1996
  • Like 2
Posted

What do you mean by reversible sidewalls on the Ridge Grappler?

Is the opposite or inside not as aggressive on the sidewall as you show here in your pics?

12 minutes ago, Golfguy1996 said:

--Nitto Ridge Grapplers 295/55/20. Also didn't realize the Ridge Grapplers had two different reversible sidewalls...I decided on the more uniform sidewall that has more "chunk" so to speak. They are absolutely awesome looking tires. Have some road noise but nothing major.

 

Posted
7 minutes ago, Sierra Dan said:

What do you mean by reversible sidewalls on the Ridge Grappler?

Is the opposite or inside not as aggressive on the sidewall as you show here in your pics?

 

There are two distinct sidewalls. You can choose either to be "facing out".  This pic shows both sidewall designs. As you can see, I chose the background pic.

 

Nittos.thumb.jpg.d4ac0b4c57e5ade454c455a1cf9b8fd5.jpg

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thanks Golfguy! Never knew.

I actually like the bottom pic with the more open lugs.... but to each their own  :cheers:

Posted
11 minutes ago, Sierra Dan said:

I actually like the bottom pic with the more open lugs.... but to each their own  :cheers:

Going into it I did too...until I saw them in person! 

Posted

Long time follower, first time poster

 

2017 Silverado 1500 LTZ+ CCSB 

2.5” level (front only)

1.5” Zone Body lift

20x12 -43 fuel tritons

33x12.50x20 toyo open country AT2’s

5% tint all around

carven porgressive series cat-back exhaust

DD898068-C4FC-402F-A69D-AFC715610EB7.jpeg

0A39CBD8-68BC-4CA6-8FF3-AB47371F40D8.jpeg

F6267727-49C3-4AC1-B90E-5EDA6DA328D5.jpeg

  • Like 4
Posted

Found a great spot at a farm to snap a few pics2b2579fcb4f59de0d38a19abf8f69c0d.jpg8ffcf666ca6d185337adbd39afa23bd2.jpga21c003f92d0405ad26839593392d72b.jpg

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
Long time follower, first time poster
 
2017 Silverado 1500 LTZ+ CCSB 
2.5” level (front only)
1.5” Zone Body lift
20x12 -43 fuel tritons
33x12.50x20 toyo open country AT2’s
5% tint all around
carven porgressive series cat-back exhaust
DD898068-C4FC-402F-A69D-AFC715610EB7.thumb.jpeg.f21e324cf89165c2e31fb4dc277ada9b.jpeg
0A39CBD8-68BC-4CA6-8FF3-AB47371F40D8.thumb.jpeg.bd5cf230709b15c9cba7be51c0e759f4.jpeg
F6267727-49C3-4AC1-B90E-5EDA6DA328D5.thumb.jpeg.201793faeef576fc6710a60e6e46e8d3.jpeg
This setup is nice! How much did the body lift help your rubbing? Just did 18x10s -24 offset and I'm either gonna have to trim or add a 1.5 BL.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
9 hours ago, zach1990 said:

This setup is nice! How much did the body lift help your rubbing? Just did 18x10s -24 offset and I'm either gonna have to trim or add a 1.5 BL.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

I had the body lift on before my wheels and tires because I knew it was going to rub. You could definitely daily drive it no problem with just trimming a bit of plastic but I just push the metal back ever so slightly so it doesn’t rub at full lock for going through drive-thrus and to make parking a bit easier. If you run 33’s on 10 wides you shouldn’t have any rubbing at all with the body lift. If I had my time back I think I would have gone 20x10’s and 35’s 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

large.DSC_0380.JPG.a0c2eb01208314c539a06650cf3b1ed5.JPG

2015 Sierra SLT

Maxtrac 3" spindles w/Fox 2.0's set at 1.5"

2" Procomp block w/ Fox 2.0's, and 1.5" Bora wheel spacers

BBP tune and Corsa Exhaust

17x8.5 Weld Cheyenne's w/ M/T MTZ 33" 

Edited by jgutierrez89
  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
    • That's interesting.   There was a factory wire-hole in the back, top of the rear cab, which had a wire for the third brakelight assembly running through it, as well as several holes (10 of them I believe) for all of the studs coming off of the 3rd brakelight assembly itself.   I sealed all of those holes with RTV/silicone as well.   I found it kind of odd, that none of those holes, were sealed with any kind of sealant by the factory - if there was any there, it wasn't very much.   That said, I've been out in heavy rain and have ran the truck through high-pressure car-washes a few times now and she has been 100% water-tight to this point.   I feel very confident in the repair, we'll see how it holds up.
    • I bought a used 2022 2500hd with 6.6L in February. In March took a 2200 mile trip towing our 6500 lb trailer. Changed the oil day before leaving and when we were arriving at our 1st destination, low oil light came on (roughly 1000 miles) it was 2 qts low. Now it towed like a dream, no issue there, and we did go through the mountains of TN, but still, 2 qts! Luckily I did purchase an extended warranty. Brought it to the dealership in April, oil change and consumption test. Brought it back last week, 1300 miles, no towing, and no oil showing on the dipstick. GM is reccomending a new engine (cheaper than them rebuilding), we'll see if the warranty company comes through. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...