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4.88's too much for my transfer case?


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Posted
Well you may have a bit more angle but that's not your problem. Plenty of guys run close to 10" of suspension without modification to the drive shafts. It's your gears or gear setup. The shop knows this...I guarantee it.

 

This issue is common with the Duramax and 263hxd...maybe not half tons tho

 

Blackout probably right.

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Posted

I'm just gonna take yalls advice and go to another shop, I'm sure they will diagnose it correctly cause they want my $.

 

In this case the other shop is the stealership. Oh well, its coming up on winter and I'm gonna need 4wd regardless. Just want this over with...

Posted

Took it to the dealership and they told me its the front diff causing the issue. Guess its time for warranty work and if the other shop won't do it I'll have to drop the cash for the dealership to do it

Posted

Took it to the dealership and they told me its the front diff causing the issue. Guess its time for warranty work and if the other shop won't do it I'll have to drop the cash for the dealership to do it

 

 

Make sure you update us with what the shop that did your install has to say, along with as many posts on as many forums with their name and address to adequately warn others to stay away if they don't get with the program.

Posted

Took it back to em just now and told em what the dealer said. No questions asked just took the keys and told me they will pull the front diff. and let me know what's wrong, whether its bearings or gear set.

Posted

Well, they didn't do anything. Im furious right now. Called me yesterday (Friday) and said "Oh I looked it up and there a bunch of people that have problems with the auto trac transfer case and lower gears" so I looked it up on google and found my topic and a couple others, but those pertained to the tcase blowing up. Blackout, I know you have the same tcase and you aint got problems. And if I have bigger tires to reduce the RPM's so it stays at factory speed, I don't know how that would make a difference versus the STOCK trucks with 4.10's (that's what my RPM's are equivilant to right now)

 

The guy said if they pull the front diff. and don't find anything wrong then they have to charge me full price. I said eff that and went and picked up the truck. So I think I will pull it myself and take it to the dealer to get this shit over with. Im tired of screwing around, cause Im gonna need 4wd coming here soon. Im just going to buy a new gearset and bearing kit and have them rebuild it with those and see what changes. That means my truck will be down about another 2 weeks.

 

I completely doubt they will "see" anything and want to charge me anyways, so Im done with them and wasting the money at the only place that tells me any truth around here. Guess I should have just stuck with my gut feeling and taken the IFS diff. to the dealership in the first place. Cause now its gonna cost me the $400 for the first rebuild and now probably $600 for this one, plus a new gearset and bearing kit, just to be safe.

 

Anyways, sorry for the venting lol

Posted

Its okay man, live and learn. My front diff in my 05 blew up because I had the axle seals changed.... First time was fine and they laughed a bit as my diff wasn't leaking bad yet and I never lost noticeable level but paid to have them swapped. 6 months later leaking again so warranty repair.... and within the first few hundred miles after picking it up it was howling in 2wd..... I regeared the truck to 410 from 373 ( big difference on something heavy with an 80e) and just bought a low mile used diff this time. I had a guy look inside and do seals but he was a GM tech that was excellent for around 20 years who went on his own.

 

If you aren't careful they are easy to bugger up. I just don't like doing the 9.25" in particular myself as the drivers axle shaft seizes in the spider gear forcing you to split the diff.... hence why axle seals became a killer for my original.

 

My original shop that wrecked my diff didn't compensate me either nor would take any responsibility.

 

Hopefully you get it fixed properly and your truck is done this time!

 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Posted

That's some really crappy customer service right there. Those crooks know damn well what the problem is and that it started after the gear install. The gears are whining loudly because either it's a poorly machined set (this happened to me) or they didn't set them up right. I can't imagine that they didn't change the bearings when they installed the gears so I seriously doubt that's the problem. You should post up everywhere warning people to stay away from that shop.

 

When my first set whined i went back to the shop the next morning. Told them what it was doing and they went straight at it without hesitation because it was pretty obvious what the issue was. They even outsourced the job to another shop since they didn't have the gears needed, just to make it right ASAP. Those guys your dealing with need to understand that that is the level of customer service people expect these days. Have you run your concerns up the chain in hopes of getting this handled?

Posted

I talked straight to the manager or owner (not sure where he is in the chain of command) of the shop and all he does is agree with the mechanic and basically believes whatever the mechanic tells him. They do not have a shop foreman I believe. When I went to my dealer, they let me speak directly to the shop foreman in regards to the problem. We have bought quite a few vehicles and numerous parts for work trucks and my truck there so I kind of know a lot of the guys there, and they know when I bring my truck in, its either for an alignment or there is something seriously wrong lol

Posted

I should take them there because the first diagnostic they did were bad wheel bearings. Me knowing they are original to truck (345k) I replaced them and noise persisted. That's $400 right there. And then they said transfer case. Already had one, so cant really do much, except for the coupler gasket, output shaft seal, and auto-trak II fluid, so bout $100 there. They I paid them an hour rate to diagnose it, when they said tcase ($100) and then the dealer spent two hours looking at it ($160). So that alone is $760 I didn't need to spend. That is a fresh rebuild at the dealer right there!!! If I brought in my own bearing kit and gear set of course...

Posted

As far as removing the front diff, so I don't get charged for that labor, I have to:

 

remove front tires

remove driver side torsion bar and kicker brace

remove both CV shafts

remove driver side shock

remove two bolts holding lower control arm on

Move that whole knuckle/ control arm assembly

and then I can get to the lower bolt that holds in the front diff.

and also remove the upper driver side bolt, and the two passenger side bolts

and "wallah!" there is the front diff.

 

Shouldn't take but 2-3 hours at a nice leisurely pace if I "Grab Some Buds" sorry I had too lol

Posted

If you haven't paid them yet, don't. They screwed you over, now it's your turn. Maybe they'll think twice before they do it again.

Posted

I already paid them. They were loose differentials and installed them in the truck myself. This has been going on like 4-6 weeks now

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