Jump to content

Muffler Delete

2014 Sporty Shorty

By 2014 Sporty Shorty
in Engines & Drivetrain

Recommended Posts

mzodarg Senior Enthusiast

mzodarg

Posted
Posted

I tried to get this done today at a local Midas, quoted me one hour of labor for $90.00, plus materials. Told them to go Expletive themselves. Went by a local shop and they will do it for $40. Got an appointment for Monday.

 

Mike

  • Replies 252
  • Created
  • Last Reply
2014 Sporty Shorty Enthusiast

2014 Sporty Shorty

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I did the cutting and pipe fitting but my buddy is a portable welder so he brought over his pickup and done the welding in my garage. It's very easy to do, when you cut the muffler out you should cut the front as close to the muffler as possible because there is a weird bend there. As far as the rear cut, there is a hanger there so just cut it close to the rear of the muffler just like the front and you will be fine. The valve opens backwards if your wondering so your not going to hit it while cutting.

2014 Sporty Shorty Enthusiast

2014 Sporty Shorty

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I tried to get this done today at a local Midas, quoted me one hour of labor for $90.00, plus materials. Told them to go Expletive themselves. Went by a local shop and they will do it for $40. Got an appointment for Monday.

 

Mike

That sounds about right, it will probably take him 20 or so minutes plus he has to weld so 40 is more than justified. Midas has always been one of the many kings that like to bend you over on pricing. I'm surprised they don't have a sign outside saying "free Vaseline".

mzodarg Senior Enthusiast

mzodarg

Posted
Posted

That sounds about right, it will probably take him 20 or so minutes plus he has to weld so 40 is more than justified. Midas has always been one of the many kings that like to bend you over on pricing. I'm surprised they don't have a sign outside saying "free Vaseline".

 

 

 

Yeah, their labor rate is stupid. I've used the shop I'm going to this morning on several occasions. I could do it myself, but I want the pipe fit to as close to perfect as possible.

mzodarg Senior Enthusiast

mzodarg

Posted
Posted

Got this done today. Truck has a nice Mellow rumble at idle and sounds good when you get on it. No drone whatsoever.

 

Mike

clayp Enthusiast

clayp

Posted
Posted

Got this done today. Truck has a nice Mellow rumble at idle and sounds good when you get on it. No drone whatsoever.

 

Mike

 

Any chance you can put the muffler on a scale to get a weight?

svtkidd23 Enthusiast

svtkidd23

Posted
Posted

Mike what did you do just remove muffler and weld a pipe in? Is the exhaust 3inch or 2.5?

 

Thanks Cody

Snap a pic and video

mzodarg Senior Enthusiast

mzodarg

Posted
Posted

Mike what did you do just remove muffler and weld a pipe in? Is the exhaust 3inch or 2.5? Thanks Cody Snap a pic and video

I'll do a video and shoot some pics tomorrow. I kept the resonator and the spring back flow thing. Not sure of the diameter, but I'll put a micrometer on it tomorrow. I think the replace piece was 3".

 

As an estimate, I'd say the muffler weighed 20#.

2014 Sporty Shorty Enthusiast

2014 Sporty Shorty

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So you just replaced the big ass muffler for a straight piece .. Did the on my old f150 was awesome

Yes that's exactly what you do, watch my video and you will see which muffler to cut out.

2014 Sporty Shorty Enthusiast

2014 Sporty Shorty

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'll do a video and shoot some pics tomorrow. I kept the resonator and the spring back flow thing. Not sure of the diameter, but I'll put a micrometer on it tomorrow. I think the replace piece was 3".

 

As an estimate, I'd say the muffler weighed 20#.

Good for you haha, I think once people realize how it sounds they will start doing this more and more. I weighed the muffler and it was 17lbs so you were almost right on, as far as pipe dia goes I used 2.75".

mzodarg Senior Enthusiast

mzodarg

Posted
Posted

Good for you haha, I think once people realize how it sounds they will start doing this more and more. I weighed the muffler and it was 17lbs so you were almost right on, as far as pipe dia goes I used 2.75".

The pipe that replaced the muffler fits over the existing pipe, installer used a pipe larger than the original pipe and then expanded it. Best $40 I've spent so far.

KMGMC Enthusiast

KMGMC

Posted
Posted

I love this, it has a real nice sound to it and it still looks factory. Just booked an appointment to get it done, thanks for the vid

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

-Low2014- Enthusiast

-Low2014-

Posted
Posted

Did mine today. Went ahead and got my guy to add an offset in the replacement pipe

 

20131022_142435.jpg

 

It's not as loud as I thought it would be but as stated in other posts a "nice mellow" sound

 

Very Happy!!! Thanks Sporty

 

2014 Sporty Shorty Enthusiast

2014 Sporty Shorty

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Good to see more people are jumping on the band wagon. I thought I would be satisfied with this but I'm still wanting more ha ha. I'm going to cut the valve and the back muffler off as well and put a super 44 and a nice 3.5" rolled tip. Now that I have my diablo intune I have the afm disabled so I'm not worried about drone anymore. I went to the dealer yesterday to have my bcm updated and they said I need some sort of a muffler to keep warranty so I had to either leave the back resonator/muffler on or put my stock one back on and get rid of the rear one. I said I would just put a little race muffler on and cut everything else off and they laughed and said that was fine as long as they saw some form of a muffler. I'm doing my exhaust again on Friday so I will post another update after it's done. The muffler and the Magnaflow tip only cost 85 dollars so it's still way way cheaper than a bought cat back.

 

Thanks

Will

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 473 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      2015 Silverado 3500 right rear turn indicator failure

      By davester · Posted

      consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...