Jump to content

Rough country 3.5 who has it?

svtkidd23

Recommended Posts

rocnrol Enthusiast

rocnrol

Posted
Posted

For what it's worth, I had the RC 3 1/2" lift kit in my 2007 NBS Silverado 1/2 ton. I got it with the replacement upper arms as well. I seen absolutely nothing wrong with the quality of the lift, it was easy to install and had no effect on the factory ride at all. I'm looking at one for my 2014 because of my experience with my first lift with them.

 

 

blackout07 Senior Enthusiast

blackout07

Posted
Posted

For what it's worth, I had the RC 3 1/2" lift kit in my 2007 NBS Silverado 1/2 ton. I got it with the replacement upper arms as well. I seen absolutely nothing wrong with the quality of the lift, it was easy to install and had no effect on the factory ride at all. I'm looking at one for my 2014 because of my experience with my first lift with them.

I had the same and it was garbage. For every positive review of this kit, there are 10 bad ones. It is by and large the most infamous kit out there and for good reason.

rocnrol Enthusiast

rocnrol

Posted
Posted

I had the same and it was garbage. For every positive review of this kit, there are 10 bad ones. It is by and large the most infamous kit out there and for good reason.

 

what exactly did you find was garbage about it? you have'nt said yet. i found all the parts to be well made, none of them broke. everything fit perfectly, i didnt have to modify any of the parts to fit. the new upper arms addressed the issue of the non-replaceable upper ball joints in the GMT900's, which was a bonus.ever thing that was needed to install the kit was there and the instructions were exelent.the ride was not affected at all, and there was no vibrations at all at speed while in 4X4, or any banging or clanging while driving.

 

in my view, exellent bang for the buck.

 

IMG_00000070_zps6093313b.jpg

svtkidd23 Enthusiast

svtkidd23

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I had the same and it was garbage. For every positive review of this kit, there are 10 bad ones. It is by and large the most infamous kit out there and for good reason.

 

what exactly did you find was garbage about it? you have'nt said yet. i found all the parts to be well made, none of them broke. everything fit perfectly, i didnt have to modify any of the parts to fit. the new upper arms addressed the issue of the non-replaceable upper ball joints in the GMT900's, which was a bonus.ever thing that was needed to install the kit was there and the instructions were exelent.the ride was not affected at all, and there was no vibrations at all at speed while in 4X4, or any banging or clanging while driving.

 

in my view, exellent bang for the buck.

 

 

What size tires?

ebackwardse1 Enthusiast

ebackwardse1

Posted
Posted

I haven't seen this question answered so maybe it's a dumb one, but here goes. I ordered a 2014 Silverado 4X4 Z71 LTZ and I want to lift it slightly, maybe 3.5".

 

Just a notch more that the 2" leveling kit.

 

My question is, how is the difference accounted for between the front and the rear with the lift kits? I have seen some pics of the 2" leveling kit, which I assume means it only goes on the front to even it with the rear, correct? If that's the case, is it possible to go 1" in the rear and 3" in the front with a leveling kit?

 

Happy to hear any suggestions.

blackout07 Senior Enthusiast

blackout07

Posted
Posted

I ran 305/55/20s with the kit and a body lift. I've posted about my experience so many times I can't believe anyone who's searched hasn't seen it, or the hundreds of other bad reviews. I had to drill brackets that wouldn't line up during the install. I had to drill out my spindles for the crap ball joints that repeatedly failed, which is stupid. The truck wouldn't hold an alignment and RCs customer service sucked. They denied any reported issues with that kit for ever despite tons and tons of threads and posts indicating the contrary, where returns and complaints had been cited. Then after like 4 or 5 years they "revamp" the kit and acknowledge "some previous issues." Even IF RC fixed all of the old issues they still suck. They produce half engineered junk on the cheap to lure in people looking for a cheap way out to lift a truck that they clearly didn't cheap out on. What's worse is if you would go on other forums and search the web, you'll find that anyone who has experience with that kit and likes it or still has it is either a new owner or the exception. And despite all of the warnings people who ask for opinions clearly really don't want them because they buy it anyway. Just bear in mind that you have a 3.5" glorified leveling kit that fails to correct LCA and TRE angles.

  • 3 weeks later...
travishale84 Enthusiast

travishale84

Posted
Posted

I have the rcx 3.5" lift. I loved it the first year. It gives the truck the perfect stance. I had to replace the upper ball joints after the first year. This year I had to replace both upper and lower ball joints. So now I'm a professional ball joint installer. I wish I got a 2.5" lift with a 3" BL.

  • 5 months later...
ChevyCoastie New Member

ChevyCoastie

Posted
Posted

Found this while trolling brings to light a lot of issues you gentlemen talk about. And it sounds like the 3.5 lift maxes out the upper knuckle prematurely wearing out the joint. They also found out that there was two different tapers of the ball joints. So it mainly comes down to getting the correct kit for your truck.

 

http://www.fourwheeler.com/product-reviews/1401-2014-gm-12-ton-suspension-systems-raise-the-roof/

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      Vehicle Payments

      By KARNUT · Posted

      This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • UrbanRage
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By UrbanRage · Posted

      I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • ChristopherDobson
      Vehicle Payments

      By ChristopherDobson · Posted

      Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...