2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

[bayouchub14]

Do you think 4" will get his front tire tucked? That's why I said 6... possibly 5.

I think it would be close. To go more then 4/7 (with DJM kit anyways) i think would require some cuttin on the fenders up front and notching on the frame in the back. If i had to do over again i would have done 3/6 and kept my original 275/45/22 tires, ended up having to go to a lower profile tire to aleviate heavy rubbing on the front fenders.. also the turning radius really sucks really bad lol. Im no expert by any means at this business I was very surprised at how bad the turning radius was after my drop.

[whodatfan]

OK here's a 6/9 drop that was posted in another thread... Wow!

 

Here's the link... http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/163820-torn-between-lowering-and-lifting/?p=1495772

 

That is it. Perfect

[keakar]

has anyone tried to install the fender well liners with the 2" drop shackles?

 

are there any clearance issues since some say the fender seams need bending

 

I ordered the fender liners to put on it but I also want to do the 2" drop shackles

Edited September 1, 2014 by keakar

[Luster]

That is it. Perfect

Yes it is!

[No Tyme]

Has anyone got the shock length figured out yet? I do NOT have Rancheros shocks but think the lowering of the rear is going to change the dampening of the shocks…

Looking to drop the rear 2”, either with the drop shackles at 2” hole or the 1” hole and block removal/reducer… I'm chomping at the bit to do this mod...

 

2014 Crew 4x4

[nate538]

Has anyone got the shock length figured out yet? I do NOT have Rancheros shocks but think the lowering of the rear is going to change the dampening of the shocks…

Looking to drop the rear 2”, either with the drop shackles at 2” hole or the 1” hole and block removal/reducer… I'm chomping at the bit to do this mod...

 

2014 Crew 4x4

Stock shocks where fine for me with 2in drop shackles. I went with beltechs now that I also have the block removed. Also I needed to shim the diff 2 degrees after the shackles because they rotated the diff downward.

2014 RCSB 4x4

[whodatfan]

Stock shocks where fine for me with 2in drop shackles. I went with beltechs now that I also have the block removed. Also I needed to shim the diff 2 degrees after the shackles because they rotated the diff downward.

2014 RCSB 4x4

I haven't used the angle finder on the tranny yet, but how did you come up with the 2° for the shim kit? I also have 2" drop shackles with block removed. I just have a 2wd though.

[nate538]

I haven't used the angle finder on the tranny yet, but how did you come up with the 2° for the shim kit? I also have 2" drop shackles with block removed. I just have a 2wd though.

I used an angle finder app on my phone along with some instructions I found and posted back in this thread somewhere. You basically have to get the diff and the Trans on the same angle

[keakar]

I used an angle finder app on my phone along with some instructions I found and posted back in this thread somewhere. You basically have to get the diff and the Trans on the same angle

 

does something as slight as a 2 degree shim change really need to be done?

 

im asking because I don't see any others with the 2" drop shackles saying they shimmed anything, usually its the guys doing axle flips or slams

[No Tyme]

 

does something as slight as a 2 degree shim change really need to be done?

 

im asking because I don't see any others with the 2" drop shackles saying they shimmed anything, usually its the guys doing axle flips or slams

 

Now I am getting confused. With all this said it may be better to raise the front, which is just what I do not want to do... I will never do 33" tires and just want to level out that downhill look.

Anytime you change suspension you are altering a calculated design, but lowering 2" in the rear and having to shim the trans seems a bit much. If you put any weight in the truck you alter the rear suspension and GM has compensated for that.

I could maybe understand the need for a shim if you lower and then have a lot of tongue weight in the rear for any length of time or permanent basis!!! JMHO. Dazed and confused...

[keakar]

 

Now I am getting confused. With all this said it may be better to raise the front, which is just what I do not want to do... I will never do 33" tires and just want to level out that downhill look.

Anytime you change suspension you are altering a calculated design, but lowering 2" in the rear and having to shim the trans seems a bit much. If you put any weight in the truck you alter the rear suspension and GM has compensated for that.

I could maybe understand the need for a shim if you lower and then have a lot of tongue weight in the rear for any length of time or permanent basis!!! JMHO. Dazed and confused...

I was referring to the rear axle needing to be shimmed to return it to the same angle as before the lowering shackles because it lifts the back of the leaf springs it will roll the rear end slightly downward in the front by the u-joint. I don't think it does change when the truck is loaded because I would assume it would move evenly up or down without tilting as the springs compress.

 

I too only want to lower the back and not raise the front.

 

in fact if it didn't involve pulling and flipping the rear axle over the springs I would do a 2" front drop spindles and a 4" rear drop kit to bring it down to the "normal" height trucks used to sit at before they went crazy with the 20"-24" plus wagon wheels on em. I like my 17" wheels and don't plan on changing them so I don't like having enough room to set a gallon paint can on top of the tires and still not hit the fender with it because its got so much space. in fact if I coiuld have gotten it with 15" wheels I would have, they only cost $75 and not $200 each to replace.

 

I just want to do something that is simple, easy, and cheap that can be done by myself in the driveway in an hour or two with a socket set and wrenches

 

if you are like me and want it lowered cheap and easy look at this kit http://www.mcgaughystore.com/2014-chevy-silverado-1500-all-cabs-2wd-4wd-2-3-5-drop-kit/

 

2" drop for the front and do the 2" rear drop shackles and remove the spacer blocks above the axle so you lower the whole truck by 2" and drop the rear an extra 1.5" so its leveled at the same time instead of being 3" higher then the front and you reuse the stock shocks without them being partially compressed. if and when you ever replace the shocks you can use shorter ones and just remove the shock mount extension brackets.

 

I am still doing a lot of research and taking my time to understand how it affects warranty on things (probably a lot) but it seams the easiest and least complicated way as well as the cheapest, to get the look and level stance I want

Edited September 4, 2014 by keakar

[nate538]

Sorry for the delay guys, Keakar is exactly right about the shackles rotating the axle. My truck always had a very slight vibration when braking right off the dealer lot. When I installed the the lowering shackles it became very noticeable. That's when I realized the pinion angle was messed up, now with the shims its better than factory. Since my truck was weird to begin with I can't say whether or not you guys will have an issue, but I really wouldn't worry about it, it took me like 5 min to measure the angles and the shims where on the shelf at the local parts store

[keakar]

Sorry for the delay guys, Keakar is exactly right about the shackles rotating the axle. My truck always had a very slight vibration when braking right off the dealer lot. When I installed the the lowering shackles it became very noticeable. That's when I realized the pinion angle was messed up, now with the shims its better than factory. Since my truck was weird to begin with I can't say whether or not you guys will have an issue, but I really wouldn't worry about it, it took me like 5 min to measure the angles and the shims where on the shelf at the local parts store

 

since you already did the measurements on yours then we just need the same 2 degree shim you used right? I mean its the same 2" drop shackes mod so the angles will be the same I would think.

 

do you just go into the nearest auto store and buy a rear end shim set off the rack?

Edited September 4, 2014 by keakar

[nate538]

 

since you already did the measurements on yours then we just need the same 2 degree shim you used right? I mean its the same 2" drop shackes mod so the angles will be the same I would think.

 

do you just go into the nearest auto store and buy a rear end shim set off the rack?

Like I said I think mine was a little off from the factory. If I where you I would just do the shackles first, then if you suddenly get a vibration when braking go pick up the shims. The shims where right on the rack at the parts store, I actually picked up the lowering shackles there too. Part # 13-4100 for the shackles 13-1250 for the shims

[keakar]

Like I said I think mine was a little off from the factory. If I where you I would just do the shackles first, then if you suddenly get a vibration when braking go pick up the shims. The shims where right on the rack at the parts store, I actually picked up the lowering shackles there too. Part # 13-4100 for the shackles 13-1250 for the shims

 

thanks, I want to do a 2" front drop and 3" rear drop so that's why I was looking at the whole kit.

 

it costs more to buy it all separate and the u-bolts aren't sold for you as a lowering u-bolt set so its something you just have to go out and buy on your own hoping it fits right

 

maybe I can figure out a way to not need the kit to do it, I saw someone say they just slipped the front strut under the spndle mount and bolted it in place to get the 2" drop and if that's a safe way to do it its free except the grade 9 bolts you need to buy so if that's accurate all I need to buy is the rear shackles and figure out what to do about the u-bolts being too long

Edited September 4, 2014 by keakar