Jump to content

2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

jcronin83 Enthusiast

jcronin83

Posted
Posted

Here is mine. Bad thing is I picked up the truck after getting done over a week ago and it has been at the dealership because of the shaking and problems I am having. Hopefully will find out something soon. The tech was like 'man I don't know what it could be.

  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

Texas Xtreme New Member

Texas Xtreme

Posted
Posted

I have a 2014 6.2 auto 6 speed Denali. I did the 2" shackles and took the block out. I have a humming sound and it seems to axle wrap. Would shims help this just looking for ideas? Thinking about throwing the blacks back on.

  • Like 1
y0ureviltwin Enthusiast

y0ureviltwin

Posted
Posted

Had the belltech 6401 kit installed with rear wheel liners, so far so good, except im getting a click sound when im backing into a parking spot at times.

post-141251-0-20472600-1430921199_thumb.jpg

post-141251-0-20472600-1430921199_thumb.jpg

post-141251-0-20472600-1430921199_thumb.jpg

post-141251-0-20472600-1430921199_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Devon Cormier Enthusiast

Devon Cormier

Posted
Posted

On my 2014 i noticed a bolt running through my leaf springs and my blocks.. I have the belltech shackles but in order to remove the block as well that bolt needs to come out but it is just free spinning and the head of the bol is inside the welded tab on top of the axle. HELPPPP

DirtyMarcus Enthusiast

DirtyMarcus

Posted
Posted

On my 2014 i noticed a bolt running through my leaf springs and my blocks.. I have the belltech shackles but in order to remove the block as well that bolt needs to come out but it is just free spinning and the head of the bol is inside the welded tab on top of the axle. HELPPPP

When you remove the block you have to lower the axle from the leaf springs. The bolt isnt welded. You simple get a socket to fit the nut, then get a pair of channel locks to hold the bolt head and unscrew it. You will have to lower the axle all the way and lift the leaf spring with a jack to get the bolt out because its pretty long. I dont remember having to remove that bolt just for shackles though, unless you are adding shims. In which case my shims came with instructions on how to do this.

IMPALADAKID Enthusiast

IMPALADAKID

Posted
Posted

I just ordered the Belltech 984 2/3 drop for my truck. I decided on it because they have been around for a long time, the drop will not require any major cutting on a new truck like some I have seen. It should have a more sporty look without sacrificing stock ride quality, or running into driveline issues.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BEL-984

Slo281 Enthusiast

Slo281

Posted
Posted

Had the belltech 6401 kit installed with rear wheel liners, so far so good, except im getting a click sound when im backing into a parking spot at times.

Nice wheels bro lol

 

IMG_20150322_141029_zpsuonzpowb.jpg

  • Like 2
wantavant Enthusiast

wantavant

Posted
Posted

Sorry guys, I have read this whole thread and I'm still confused. I am looking to lower my 15 4wd Denali and was wondering if it is possible? I would love a 3/5 drop but would settle for a 2/4? I haven't seen a lowered Denali on here yet. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

  • Like 1
y0ureviltwin Enthusiast

y0ureviltwin

Posted
Posted

Has anyone who has used lowering shackles and removed the factory block have noise coming from the rear of the truck, sounds like a pop or clunk noise, it only happens when im backing and turning or hitting a bump, went to the dealer and they said they found some loose bolts on the suspension and tightened them down but drove around and can still hear it.

  • Like 1
IMPALADAKID Enthusiast

IMPALADAKID

Posted
Posted

Has anyone who has used lowering shackles and removed the factory block have noise coming from the rear of the truck, sounds like a pop or clunk noise, it only happens when im backing and turning or hitting a bump, went to the dealer and they said they found some loose bolts on the suspension and tightened them down but drove around and can still hear it.

Maybe a u-joint. You might need to shim the rear a couple degrees at the rear of the spring pad to align the rear back with the rest of the drivetrain. The shackles would have caused it to turn down as they pushed the springs up in the back. I am doing the entire kit including the front spindles. I am going to get it back together, and see how much shim I need to correct the angle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,948
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    zibzer2
    Newest Member
    zibzer2
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 839 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • zibzer2
      Pulsating Noise 4Cyl Mode

      By zibzer2 · Posted

      2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Chuck FB
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • PunchT37
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • SoCal Angler
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By SoCal Angler · Posted

      2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...