Jump to content

2014+ Door Handle Removal

brentadams646

By brentadams646
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply
jburch77 Enthusiast

jburch77

Posted
Posted

Finally got around to putting these on last night. Thanks for the directions - it was a breeze. Now I need to find mirror caps.

 

 

 

 

Yes. You will see it once you take the handle off. The first picture in post 4 gives you an idea. The handle slides in on the right side of that opening and then back into the clamp which needs to be pulled out a bit for it to slide in.

  • 2 weeks later...
BrownstoneZ71 Enthusiast

BrownstoneZ71

Posted
Posted

I gotta tell ya, I spent way too long fumbling with the fishing line, and I didn't really want to ruin a screwdriver when I wasn't sure it would work. So I tried my orange weed whacker (trimmer) line and it was the perfect amount of solid and flex to easily pull the "E" up.

 

I cut off about 2 feet worth, pinched it a bit in the middle to get it onto the center of the E, and pulled it up. After I slid the handle in, I cut as much of the "bottom" of the excess line off as possible, pulled out on the door handle (as I would to open the door), and pulled up on the top line excess just enough to pull it through and out.

 

I spent 30 mins cussing out the fishing line and all of the other various tools I tried, and the trimmer line took about 10 seconds.

 

Also note that they aren't kidding about the T25 hex screws. ONLY loosen them just enough to remove the cap. I tightened them back up a few turns after I got the cap off just to be sure they wouldn't vibrate out until I was ready to put the painted cap on. The rear doors sort of have a "stop" for the screws, but the front handles didn't seem to, so I was sure to keep constant pressure with my T25 screwdriver on the screw while I loosened it just enough, then tightened it back up a few turns while I worked on the handle. It looks incredibly easy to have the screws fall into the door frame and be lost on the front doors if you aren't careful.

 

I hope this helps somebody. As with most things, the first one takes 5 times and long as the rest of them. I could do a whole set in 5-10 mins now.

  • 2 weeks later...
Brews02ws6 Enthusiast

Brews02ws6

Posted
Posted

Just got my Summit White handles installed in about 15 minutes total (before and after pics attached). Got mine on eBay for $235, with white mirror caps that I haven't installed yet. I haven't found a thread that tells how to remove them w/o breaking something.

 

You guys had me really worried about the screw falling out, or it would have been a 10 minute piece of cake! The first one, I unscrewed it several turns and thought it was wobbly enough that I should stop. Well, it wasn't enough, because the back piece of the handle wouldn't come off with prying, pulling, etc. It finally snapped off and I realized another turn or 2 on the screw would have allowed the piece to just fall out basically. And there was PLENTY of thread still left inside the door. Once I realized that, the others were a breeze.

 

Oh, and the other part about using something to pull the "E" piece out toward you. I ran in to get fishing line from an old tackle box. Must have been too brittle because it broke without getting to pull the E very far. So my only other option was some frayed twine. I also pinched a little to keep it narrow enough to fit through the opening. Then I found it best to loop it around the bottom of the E, because with it in the middle, the handle wouldn't fully seat inside it. This was all figured out in about 5-10 min on the first one, and the others were literally about 1 minute each. I almost had my wife video the last one to put on here, but I think the first video and everyone's tips were more than enough.

 

If you're on the fence, just do this! I'm as worried as anyone about messing with stuff and not getting it back together perfectly. This was a breeze and they look/function perfectly.

 

 

post-131275-0-85202300-1402618961_thumb.jpg

post-131275-0-70877400-1402618972_thumb.jpg

post-131275-0-85202300-1402618961_thumb.jpg

post-131275-0-70877400-1402618972_thumb.jpg

post-131275-0-85202300-1402618961_thumb.jpg

post-131275-0-70877400-1402618972_thumb.jpg

post-131275-0-85202300-1402618961_thumb.jpg

post-131275-0-70877400-1402618972_thumb.jpg

thewhitestallion Senior Enthusiast

thewhitestallion

Posted
Posted

Just got my Summit White handles installed in about 15 minutes total (before and after pics attached). Got mine on eBay for $235, with white mirror caps that I haven't installed yet. I haven't found a thread that tells how to remove them w/o breaking something.

 

You guys had me really worried about the screw falling out, or it would have been a 10 minute piece of cake! The first one, I unscrewed it several turns and thought it was wobbly enough that I should stop. Well, it wasn't enough, because the back piece of the handle wouldn't come off with prying, pulling, etc. It finally snapped off and I realized another turn or 2 on the screw would have allowed the piece to just fall out basically. And there was PLENTY of thread still left inside the door. Once I realized that, the others were a breeze.

 

Oh, and the other part about using something to pull the "E" piece out toward you. I ran in to get fishing line from an old tackle box. Must have been too brittle because it broke without getting to pull the E very far. So my only other option was some frayed twine. I also pinched a little to keep it narrow enough to fit through the opening. Then I found it best to loop it around the bottom of the E, because with it in the middle, the handle wouldn't fully seat inside it. This was all figured out in about 5-10 min on the first one, and the others were literally about 1 minute each. I almost had my wife video the last one to put on here, but I think the first video and everyone's tips were more than enough.

 

If you're on the fence, just do this! I'm as worried as anyone about messing with stuff and not getting it back together perfectly. This was a breeze and they look/function perfectly.

 

 

 

i don't think your mirrors have caps on them. your mirrors are all just one piece i could be wrong but im like 90% sure. what your going to have to do is cut all the tabs off the back side of your summit white cap and us 3m tape to put the cap on the mirror. honestly you don't need the tabs as long as you use a sufficient amount of 3m tape on a clean surface it will be just fine and you wont be able to tell the difference.

Brews02ws6 Enthusiast

Brews02ws6

Posted
Posted

 

i don't think your mirrors have caps on them. your mirrors are all just one piece i could be wrong but im like 90% sure. what your going to have to do is cut all the tabs off the back side of your summit white cap and us 3m tape to put the cap on the mirror. honestly you don't need the tabs as long as you use a sufficient amount of 3m tape on a clean surface it will be just fine and you wont be able to tell the difference.

 

The black ones are caps. You can see the gap all around the edge of it and move it slightly. The white ones even have a little lip around the top edge that fits under the mirror "frame" to hold it in place when it's snapped on. I'll post pics when I can get to it.

thewhitestallion Senior Enthusiast

thewhitestallion

Posted
Posted

 

The black ones are caps. You can see the gap all around the edge of it and move it slightly. The white ones even have a little lip around the top edge that fits under the mirror "frame" to hold it in place when it's snapped on. I'll post pics when I can get to it.

 

oh.. hmm learned something new. my bad.

Brews02ws6 Enthusiast

Brews02ws6

Posted
Posted

 

oh.. hmm learned something new. my bad.

No big deal! I'm going to work up the courage to change mine this morning. Please keep your fingers crossed that no tabs break!

 

On my 2010, I had to replace the whole mirror, which came with black caps. So I change it back to my white one and a tab broke off. It wasn't held perfectly in place, so at certain speeds there was a slight whistle coming from the mirror...awful.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
tutiii Enthusiast

tutiii

Posted
Posted

Is the E Shaped clip only on the drivers handle?

I ordered all the parts from the dealer and they are getting painted.

glcbn Enthusiast

glcbn

Posted
Posted

Is the E Shaped clip only on the drivers handle?

I ordered all the parts from the dealer and they are getting painted.

 

It's on every door. I broke down and bought the GM tool for installing/removing the handles. Almost makes the task too easy! :)

As for the Torx screw. I found all four of them to actually get a bit "tight" when they are backed out enough. Even so, it's best to have one hand on the cap while loosening the screw,and keep jiggling while loosening until it's loose enough to come off.

tutiii Enthusiast

tutiii

Posted
Posted

OK thanks, watching the video at the start of this thread, it doesn't mention the E clip.

where did you buy the tool? i also leave in pa, North of Philly

glcbn Enthusiast

glcbn

Posted
Posted

I got it from gmtoolsandequipment.com. The part number is BO-51363.

tutiii Enthusiast

tutiii

Posted
Posted

I got it from gmtoolsandequipment.com. The part number is BO-51363.

thanks GLC,

I order the tool.

Thanks again

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,298 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      No Software Updates - Old Build

      By Atlas · Posted

      If there are updates/fixes you want, you could pay to have the updates applied by the dealer.
    • DaleB
      No Software Updates - Old Build

      By DaleB · Posted

      Hi all - my current truck is a 2022.5 1500 High Country 3.0. I bought the truck used last year. After doing some digging, I noticed that my truck's software is stuck on the original build from 2022. I have no available software updates. I talked to my dealer about this and they recommended not trying to force an update since the 36,000 mile warranty is expired. This is a big bummer since there have been many major releases since that have fixed small issues and improved speed/usability.   For reference, the current software build number is: full_gminfo37_gb-user 10 W158E-W164.4.2-QIH22B-563.3 158 release-keys Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I just forget about it and move on, or try a different dealer?
    • B07
      Needing this part.

      By B07 · Posted

      Sure. Buy it for me 🤣
    • B07
      Needing this part.

      By B07 · Posted

      Using zip ties but 2-3 they snap due to sharp edges. Just using a shoestring. Last longer. 🤣
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      I ordered the Snap On...waiting for it to come in later this week or early next week.   New front cover, new crank seal and new balancer are on. Water pump, pulley, fan, hoses, and plastics reinstalled. I can move forward knowing all my timing marks are dead on and the front engine is hopefully sealed better than it was. Take 2 with the water pump...trying high temp thread sealer on the lower bolts.   Rebuilt injector and new-new regulator is in, it looks like new. Top intake reassembled and all the bits are reconnected and snugged down.   Thinking about knock sensors again, I located both of mine and, there's your problem, Francis... The driver's side one is broke, plastic is bashed in, part of the wire is bare, and it appears to have been damaged like that for a long time. I saw the wire but didn't think anything of it. The knock sensor might not be my pulled timing issue, but it sure looks suspect. It must still be conducting, otherwise I'd expect a CEL. But perhaps with its sacred crystal inside exposed, jilted and dirty, maybe it's sending mixed signals. So I'm waiting for one of those and a new pigtail to come in. Pass side sensor looks good, except for the spark plug wire resting on it (!). The plug wires are healthy so it shouldn't be causing an issue, but I separated them and added zip ties to nearby looms to keep everything well apart.   So, I'm down to installing a knock sensor AND, oh, replacing the exhaust and cat. I actually think that's going to be fairly easy, it's all bolt-together, all new stuff from Walker is laid out on the shop floor ready to go. Hopefully have this thing on the road again for the weekend.   My luck? It will still be leaking oil, coolant, pulled timing, intermittent CEL for running rich, or it probably won't run at all -- because that's how this project has gone.   I've never worked on a vehicle so ...hurt? ...cursed? in my life. Everything has been effed with SO HARD, but I think...knock on wood...I've managed to undo all the backyard stuff and we're almost reset back to "just" an 80k mile, 30 year old Blazer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...