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2014+ Door Handle Removal


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Posted

Finally got around to putting these on last night. Thanks for the directions - it was a breeze. Now I need to find mirror caps.

 

 

 

 

Yes. You will see it once you take the handle off. The first picture in post 4 gives you an idea. The handle slides in on the right side of that opening and then back into the clamp which needs to be pulled out a bit for it to slide in.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I gotta tell ya, I spent way too long fumbling with the fishing line, and I didn't really want to ruin a screwdriver when I wasn't sure it would work. So I tried my orange weed whacker (trimmer) line and it was the perfect amount of solid and flex to easily pull the "E" up.

 

I cut off about 2 feet worth, pinched it a bit in the middle to get it onto the center of the E, and pulled it up. After I slid the handle in, I cut as much of the "bottom" of the excess line off as possible, pulled out on the door handle (as I would to open the door), and pulled up on the top line excess just enough to pull it through and out.

 

I spent 30 mins cussing out the fishing line and all of the other various tools I tried, and the trimmer line took about 10 seconds.

 

Also note that they aren't kidding about the T25 hex screws. ONLY loosen them just enough to remove the cap. I tightened them back up a few turns after I got the cap off just to be sure they wouldn't vibrate out until I was ready to put the painted cap on. The rear doors sort of have a "stop" for the screws, but the front handles didn't seem to, so I was sure to keep constant pressure with my T25 screwdriver on the screw while I loosened it just enough, then tightened it back up a few turns while I worked on the handle. It looks incredibly easy to have the screws fall into the door frame and be lost on the front doors if you aren't careful.

 

I hope this helps somebody. As with most things, the first one takes 5 times and long as the rest of them. I could do a whole set in 5-10 mins now.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Just got my Summit White handles installed in about 15 minutes total (before and after pics attached). Got mine on eBay for $235, with white mirror caps that I haven't installed yet. I haven't found a thread that tells how to remove them w/o breaking something.

 

You guys had me really worried about the screw falling out, or it would have been a 10 minute piece of cake! The first one, I unscrewed it several turns and thought it was wobbly enough that I should stop. Well, it wasn't enough, because the back piece of the handle wouldn't come off with prying, pulling, etc. It finally snapped off and I realized another turn or 2 on the screw would have allowed the piece to just fall out basically. And there was PLENTY of thread still left inside the door. Once I realized that, the others were a breeze.

 

Oh, and the other part about using something to pull the "E" piece out toward you. I ran in to get fishing line from an old tackle box. Must have been too brittle because it broke without getting to pull the E very far. So my only other option was some frayed twine. I also pinched a little to keep it narrow enough to fit through the opening. Then I found it best to loop it around the bottom of the E, because with it in the middle, the handle wouldn't fully seat inside it. This was all figured out in about 5-10 min on the first one, and the others were literally about 1 minute each. I almost had my wife video the last one to put on here, but I think the first video and everyone's tips were more than enough.

 

If you're on the fence, just do this! I'm as worried as anyone about messing with stuff and not getting it back together perfectly. This was a breeze and they look/function perfectly.

 

 

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Posted

Just got my Summit White handles installed in about 15 minutes total (before and after pics attached). Got mine on eBay for $235, with white mirror caps that I haven't installed yet. I haven't found a thread that tells how to remove them w/o breaking something.

 

You guys had me really worried about the screw falling out, or it would have been a 10 minute piece of cake! The first one, I unscrewed it several turns and thought it was wobbly enough that I should stop. Well, it wasn't enough, because the back piece of the handle wouldn't come off with prying, pulling, etc. It finally snapped off and I realized another turn or 2 on the screw would have allowed the piece to just fall out basically. And there was PLENTY of thread still left inside the door. Once I realized that, the others were a breeze.

 

Oh, and the other part about using something to pull the "E" piece out toward you. I ran in to get fishing line from an old tackle box. Must have been too brittle because it broke without getting to pull the E very far. So my only other option was some frayed twine. I also pinched a little to keep it narrow enough to fit through the opening. Then I found it best to loop it around the bottom of the E, because with it in the middle, the handle wouldn't fully seat inside it. This was all figured out in about 5-10 min on the first one, and the others were literally about 1 minute each. I almost had my wife video the last one to put on here, but I think the first video and everyone's tips were more than enough.

 

If you're on the fence, just do this! I'm as worried as anyone about messing with stuff and not getting it back together perfectly. This was a breeze and they look/function perfectly.

 

 

 

i don't think your mirrors have caps on them. your mirrors are all just one piece i could be wrong but im like 90% sure. what your going to have to do is cut all the tabs off the back side of your summit white cap and us 3m tape to put the cap on the mirror. honestly you don't need the tabs as long as you use a sufficient amount of 3m tape on a clean surface it will be just fine and you wont be able to tell the difference.

Posted

 

i don't think your mirrors have caps on them. your mirrors are all just one piece i could be wrong but im like 90% sure. what your going to have to do is cut all the tabs off the back side of your summit white cap and us 3m tape to put the cap on the mirror. honestly you don't need the tabs as long as you use a sufficient amount of 3m tape on a clean surface it will be just fine and you wont be able to tell the difference.

 

The black ones are caps. You can see the gap all around the edge of it and move it slightly. The white ones even have a little lip around the top edge that fits under the mirror "frame" to hold it in place when it's snapped on. I'll post pics when I can get to it.

Posted

 

The black ones are caps. You can see the gap all around the edge of it and move it slightly. The white ones even have a little lip around the top edge that fits under the mirror "frame" to hold it in place when it's snapped on. I'll post pics when I can get to it.

 

oh.. hmm learned something new. my bad.

Posted

 

oh.. hmm learned something new. my bad.

No big deal! I'm going to work up the courage to change mine this morning. Please keep your fingers crossed that no tabs break!

 

On my 2010, I had to replace the whole mirror, which came with black caps. So I change it back to my white one and a tab broke off. It wasn't held perfectly in place, so at certain speeds there was a slight whistle coming from the mirror...awful.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Is the E Shaped clip only on the drivers handle?

I ordered all the parts from the dealer and they are getting painted.

Posted

Is the E Shaped clip only on the drivers handle?

I ordered all the parts from the dealer and they are getting painted.

 

It's on every door. I broke down and bought the GM tool for installing/removing the handles. Almost makes the task too easy! :)

As for the Torx screw. I found all four of them to actually get a bit "tight" when they are backed out enough. Even so, it's best to have one hand on the cap while loosening the screw,and keep jiggling while loosening until it's loose enough to come off.

Posted

OK thanks, watching the video at the start of this thread, it doesn't mention the E clip.

where did you buy the tool? i also leave in pa, North of Philly

Posted

I got it from gmtoolsandequipment.com. The part number is BO-51363.

Posted

I got it from gmtoolsandequipment.com. The part number is BO-51363.

thanks GLC,

I order the tool.

Thanks again

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