Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

^dropped my ebay bars off last week to be line-x'd :)

Had mine done last year. Raptor has a 10 year warranty on their powder coat but I didn't want to test it.

post-162235-0-30456900-1489554269_thumb.jpg

post-162235-0-30456900-1489554269_thumb.jpg

post-162235-0-30456900-1489554269_thumb.jpg

post-162235-0-30456900-1489554269_thumb.jpg

Posted

Rough Country steps

Lift%20with%20steps.jpg

 

Rear of wheel well to middle of front step ~23"

20170314_180753.jpg

 

Wheel well to rear step ~65"

20170314_180814.jpg

43f9ce651a2ebd054cd075650f880409.jpg

 

 

just installed the rough country nerf steps install took about 30 minutes

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How do you guys like the RCX steps?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Posted

How do you guys like the RCX steps?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I really like them. They are easy to install and rock solid.

Posted

I really like them. They are easy to install and rock solid.

Thanks for the reply. They seem to be cheaper than the NFABs as well. I've also read that the front step is too far forward.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Posted

Thanks for the reply. They seem to be cheaper than the NFABs as well. I've also read that the front step is too far forward.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

It appears the steps are in the same relative location on most brands. I think the issue with step location is really personal preference. If you look at the RC steps in relation to the seat, it is ideal for climbing in. When getting out, it would be easier if the step were farther back. If the step were indeed farther back, it would be less useful when transitioning from step to seat upon entry. I personally think the step location is ideal for both. I place my left foot on the step when getting in the truck. I place my right heel on the step when getting out. Then again, I'm 6' 2" so I really didn't have a hard time without the steps. My wife is 5' 2", so the steps were mainly for her and my daughter. I also didn't like seeing exposed frame and body mounts after my body lift, so the steps concealed that.

20170315_170744.jpg

Posted

It appears the steps are in the same relative location on most brands. I think the issue with step location is really personal preference. If you look at the RC steps in relation to the seat, it is ideal for climbing in. When getting out, it would be easier if the step were farther back. If the step were indeed farther back, it would be less useful when transitioning from step to seat upon entry. I personally think the step location is ideal for both. I place my left foot on the step when getting in the truck. I place my right heel on the step when getting out. Then again, I'm 6' 2" so I really didn't have a hard time without the steps. My wife is 5' 2", so the steps were mainly for her and my daughter. I also didn't like seeing exposed frame and body mounts after my body lift, so the steps concealed that.

20170315_170744.jpg

Thanks man. I'm also 6'2 haha. My wife is around 5'8" and I have an almost 6yr old and 4yr old. Think I'm going with the RCX ones.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Posted

Had mine done last year. Raptor has a 10 year warranty on their powder coat but I didn't want to test it.

attachicon.gifsteps.jpg

You're smart, mine only lasted about a year before they got really rusty. I paid the difference and upgraded to SS on the warranty replacement.. I traded the truck that those bars were on in on my current truck so I don't know how well the SS bars held up... I have OEM 6" running boards on my new truck which are really nice.

Posted

Does anyone have the OEM 6" running boards on their truck, but Line-X'd? Was hoping to see pictures of how it looks. I've seen it on others but looking for the OEM ones specifically.

Posted

Just installed today. Love the lighting on these steps.

 

e158fc3ea981e65f6be3eee2ac880a0c.jpg

 

c0e4b3acb97bf8a7f68960ba96b05396.jpg

 

Sent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk

That looks really good man. Do the lights come on only at night when the door is opened? Or how did you set them up?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Posted

You're smart, mine only lasted about a year before they got really rusty. I paid the difference and upgraded to SS on the warranty replacement.. I traded the truck that those bars were on in on my current truck so I don't know how well the SS bars held up... I have OEM 6" running boards on my new truck which are really nice.

I went with the SS bars on my '09 because it had chrome trim. My son has that truck now and the bars still look great. Had a bit of surface rust around one of the pads that cleaned up easy with polish.

 

Only thing I don't like about these is how low they sit. I talked to Raptor before I bought and was told the rocker mount sit higher than the body mount. I think he mis-spoke himself.

 

I was looking at the 'step' type bars but had read about them being too far forward. The factory type look great and have a wider step but are crazy expensive. I may change out down the road if I find one that 'does it all' but will have them sprayed as well.

Posted

That looks really good man. Do the lights come on only at night when the door is opened? Or how did you set them up?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Lights come on when the doors are open.

 

Sent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Love my Amp Steps! There when you need them and gone when you don't.

Edited by groundtrooper
Posted (edited)

Stumbled onto a good buy on Tuff-Bar stainless steel steps aka nerf bars - and discovered they are actually re-branded Westin steps. They even ship from Westin - same brand stainless tube step I had on my 2007.5 and very good quality. Either eBay or Amazon seem to have the best prices. I bought these on eBay from JC Whitney on Tuesday, and they arrived today via Fed Ex. ($269.76 delivered).

I liked this design because of the welded end caps - rather than just plastic plugs like most a made. These surfboards are 6" wide! Easier for the young and old to climb aboard..... And adds a little more bling....... :pimp:

Install took 30 mins a side - nice to work with new parts designed to fit well. Would make a good career.

 

https://www.carid.com/tuff-bar/6-polished-stainless-steel-oval-straight-tube-step-bars-mpn-5-60273.html

 

 

 

 

Edited by Krusty

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Progress... sort of.   Intake is disassembled, spider is out, fuel lines removed. Used a torch on the stripped screw with the lower intake off, much easier when I've got the intake sitting on my workbench, I made it talk. Walked right out with a pair of vice grips once it was nice and toasty hot.   New parts are piling up on my service cart waiting to be installed. Distributor, temperature sensor, new gaskets, fuel line kit, themostat, water neck.   My new pickle is I don't want to spend $600 on a replacement spider. I'm not sure IT is bad. I'm probably splitting hairs. Or it's $300 to send mine away and another 3 weeks of the truck just sitting. I have half a mind to assemble everything with the old spider to see if I can get away with just replacing the fuel pressure regulator to be safe. The obvious issue was the gushing high pressure fuel line which will be replaced. Getting to the spider really isn't that hard, and now I know what I'm doing , swapping it would be a breeze should it absolutely need one. Stupid, or smart?   The part that gives me pause is replacing the distributor. Well, it's already out. And I didn't mark it, whoopsie! Engine was at TDC when I removed it, I know that, so upon correct reinstall the metal tip on the rotor should point to the TDC mark on the distributor because that's where it was pointing on the old distributor. Worst case I'm a tooth off and have to re-stab it.   But then, what? I assume the truck will start. It doesn't appear the timing can be set. Here's the problem: These distributors can't be rotated but a degree or two, by design. What I read is Cam ****** needs to be -2 to +2 degrees, ideally at 0 (and checked/set above 1000 rpm). There should be enough wiggle to get that properly set, but checking the reported value is another potential issue. My Actron 9185 scanner says it supports enhanced GM PIDs and Cam ****** is one of them but it's unclear that I'll be able to correctly see it over OBD 1.5. I can see why people end up junking these things with life left in them. They're an absolute nightmare with tweener-year diagnostics/electronics and unobtanium parts.   Fingers crossed it starts and idles nicely. There can be hope, right? I'ma buy a lottery ticket the same day just in case.   Next steps..DO IT. I have not installed an intake before so I've been reading and watching a lot. Some say NO RTV except on china walls, some say DO RTV on water ports but not fuel/air intake. 1/4 or 3/8 bead on China walls? I think my strategy will be, obviously, RTV china walls with overlap on the gasket corners. Chapstick-style RTV the water ports. Leave intake ports dry. The only set of intake gaskets I could find locally are Edelbrock performance gaskets (uh...for an asthmatic 190hp V6? LOL) so we'll see how they do.   #NoToolLeftBehind. It took an hour, but my recovery mission for my deep 10mm socket was successful. It had rolled down the bellhousing and wedged itself between what I think are the fuel lines? I couldn't see it at all, but with a junk antenna I had laying around, I blindly went poking/sweeping for it, heard it clink, raised the truck, and caught a sliver glimpse of chrome with a flashlight way up there in Narnia. I had pushed it farther along the lines holding it captive, but within access of severely improvised tools, poking and cursing at it to finally knock it free to where I could get a fingertip on it to bring it home.    Not much to see.      
    • Thats crazy considering im right next door (Indiana)
    • For a limited time, retail and commercial accounts receive an AMSOIL Vinyl Tool Tray with their order of $500 or more when they use code TRAY726 at checkout. The promotion runs through July 21, 2026.   Order at https://syntheticadvantage.com   Want to use AMSOIL in your business or sell at your store, apply here.  https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/?zo=521390  
    • It wouldn’t have happened if the government hadn’t mandated outrageous fuel mileage standards. It does very little for the consumer. It adds cost. Back during Covid there was a chip shortage. They gave a rebate for your truck if it didn’t have the chip to turn on cylinder deactivation. It was 50$ because at best you may see 1/2 a mile increase per gallon. Splitting hairs each fuel mileage trick wasn’t mandated. The government doesn’t do the engineering work and say use this until it’s already in use and they like it. The fuel mileage was mandated. And those add ons the results. There’s a mandate and they are the results.
    • It was never mandated.  Ever.    Automakers were incentivized to install it by getting CAFE credits to help with their vehicle fleet fuel economy scores.  They were being handed money/CAFE credits to install it.  Which is NOT a mandate.       The current admin removed the incentives that were behind them installing it.       
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...