Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

That might -fit- in the Silverado, but with the rear seat climate controls, it certainly wouldn't look right IMHO.

Posted (edited)
That won't fit in a truck at all. The lid will fit but that's about it.. The part from in middle for the SUV's are different, see the picture below..

c29382c8187b0113945988909ebc55a7.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by thrasher2010
Posted

That would fit? It looks like the trim is slanted by the wood grain. I'm not sure if that's the same concole

 

 

iPhone 6 '14 Silverado

 

My mistake, just did a quick search and went off the title.

Posted

Anyone know if the reverse tartan is the same as synthesis for the trim pieces

 

 

iPhone 6 '14 Silverado

 

I think they are different. Sometimes ebay has real pictures of the trim and the reverse tartan seems to have a scale look to it, almost like a small carbon fiber pattern.

Posted

Question for anyone who got the front 3 usb's to charge --- I am in the process of buying all my center console components. I have already purchased the console, plate, left and right panels, and front mount bracket. I have read that I will need a mini usb male to male cable.

 

Would this cable suffice and is 9 inches long enough?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290886713442?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I haven't started the install, therefore I haven't seen any of the wires yet.

Posted

 

I think they are different. Sometimes ebay has real pictures of the trim and the reverse tartan seems to have a scale look to it, almost like a small carbon fiber pattern.

ok thanks as long as it is close its no problem I might wrap all the trim anyways

 

 

iPhone 6 '14 Silverado

Posted

I haven't read this thread all the way through, but when I was truck shopping, I asked the local service department about adding a center console to a truck that didn't have it.

 

They could have been blowing smoke, since I am sure they don't want a hassle job like that, but they said they won't do it because it is a ton of work adding in all the wiring and making the console fit. Personally, I call a bit of BS there. I am sure it is a lot of work to accumulate all the parts and physically get it installed, but vehicles these days are designed for quick assembly. I can't confirm it, but I bet all the wiring harnesses for the center console probably plug in underneath the dash somewhere.

 

Make sure you get the center console with the 110V plug in it. That is such a nice feature. Car chargers are a thing of the past now, one charger does all whether I am in the truck or in the house. Only downside is, it will not supply power unless the truck is running.

Posted

Just picked up a 2014 this weekend. Any ideas where to find a black console? I tried local salvage yards and after reading this thread and see where the 2015 silverado or Tahoe consoles wont work.

Posted (edited)

Hi,new kid here.

Been following this thread

Just ordered my console today.Found a truck on the lot at my dealer that had the black console,grabbed the vin.Spent some time with the parts guy checking that everything would match up,all was good(should mention this was a 15 truck mine is a 14).

Dealer price for everything $762.97

Did some shopping on gm parts direct and total was 513.52 plus about 30 for shipping(no tax) so pulled the trigger.

while I was doing my research I noticed gm keeps changing the part numbers so if it will help anyone here are the current #s and the prices at gm parts direct.

 

Black console,the basic one with one 12 plug on the rear cover part# 23466999 $ 310.11

Top plate with 110v outlet in synthesis # 23467113 $ 145.86

left side panel # 23467516 $ 22.27

right side panel # 22817347 $ 21,58

bracket # 22776807 $ 13.70

 

 

Ron

Edited by 1911-A1
Posted

Hi,new kid here.

Been following this thread

Just ordered my console today.Found a truck on the lot at my dealer that had the black console,grabbed the vin.Spent some time with the parts guy checking that everything would match up,all was good(should mention this was a 15 truck mine is a 14).

Dealer price for everything $762.97

Did some shopping on gm parts direct and total was 513.52 plus about 30 for shipping(no tax) so pulled the plug.

while I was doing my research I noticed gm keeps changing the part numbers so if it will help anyone here are the current #s and the prices at gm parts direct.

 

Black console,the basic one with one 12 plug on the rear cover part# 23466999 $ 310.11

Top plate with 110v outlet in synthesis # 23467113 $ 145.86

left side panel # 23467516 $ 22.27

right side pane # 22817347 $ 21,58

bracket # 22776807 $ 13.70

 

 

Ron

good info man I appreciate it. So far I have the 110 tray and cup holder on the way just waiting to find the right part number for the console. The black one you ordered is like this? 6593cf1660cc79046996b9b0cf4d608e.jpg

 

 

iPhone 6 '14 Silverado

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,972
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Whit.the.COB
    Newest Member
    Whit.the.COB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,313 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I gotta say, I'm enjoying your narration. The troubles you've been having are amusing as you describe them. It's good to see that you're finally getting some satisfaction out the old beast though.
    • Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...