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Anyone have any info about backorder time? It's classic 4th of July hot here in ohio. -
There would be one way of determining the quality of the factory oil although probably more than a typical oil lab test, and that would be to draw out some oil from a new truck and send a sample to a lab that could do a more elaborate test of the oil. The issue with too little oil in the diff may not be the lack of lubrication of the diff bearings and gears themselves ( although a lack of oil volume for cooling ) but the wheel bearings because at some point the oil would be too low to properly get onto the spinning axle or fed along the axle tube. That was the claim by the local dealer from a couple of trucks in recent years that had the wheel bearings fail and they figured from lack of sufficient oil due to a severe underfilled diff and some of the bearing material made its way to the diff and it got damaged as well so the axle housings were just replaced on warranty. But your right that if the diff is over filled by whatever margin that it causes more churning of the oil than is desirable and that is no good either and can cause a pinion seal to leak. Also old oil I believe can tend to loose some of its properties like antifoaming and another good reason to change the diff oil every so often. -
I would be surprised if the diff's were not filled (with the cheapest gear lube) at the axle factory before being shipped to GM. If you ever watched them building trucks they install the axles and all suspension parts with the frame upside down and then turn it over before its time to install the engine. Too much gear lube in a axle can be worse than not enough especially with a lower quality GL where is get whipped up with entrained air (foam) weakening its ability to lubricate. -
This is the 6.6 gasser section of the forum, you should either delete or modify your previous post as it is misleading for anyone looking for factual information on their 6.6 gas engine. -
Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see? Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing. Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes. I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake. Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft. Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft. Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set. The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up. This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.
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