Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Jlm

First off nice truck, second is that a Sierra or Denali? And lastly, how did you go about mounting those LED pods? Very nice addition

 

Sent from my SG Note 4 on Tapatalk

Posted

Said goodbye to the chrome honeycomb! Big thanks to member VTbulldog for his multiple photoshop version help and dla's photo posts in another thread.

006dc2521b0203e75b20ab1fecebab7a.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What brand are the inserts if you don't mind me asking?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

What brand are the inserts if you don't mind me asking?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Grillcraft

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Grillcraft

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Not mine but so wanna do this to my truck

D232B384-D776-4FD5-B2FE-3690AD525C46_zps

Sick, a friend of mine posted this on fb.

 

Sent from my SG Note 4 on Tapatalk

Posted

Jlm

First off nice truck, second is that a Sierra or Denali? And lastly, how did you go about mounting those LED pods? Very nice addition

 

Sent from my SG Note 4 on Tapatalk

They mount with just Allan key wrenches that normally come with the light bars when you buy them 7116c59954ad3fbbad4ee3377beafe52.jpg

 

And that's your mount. Location on the bar im just waiting for my security nuts and bolts to show up before i mount to stop theft of my bar!

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Spyder LED tails and LED 3rd brake light, along with black projector headlights and a 6000k HID kit.

 

09db6dce1bbc57b0863d159c7e695b11.jpg

 

796c42341e937cd4cfc6ce2f9f0a54b1.jpg

 

c8cbd79cad6b0aaefe43fe7ad7136f6a.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Edited by txtroop1771
Posted

Are the spyder tails and third light just plug and play?

 

Those look good.

The tails are Spyder, and they are plug and play. I don't remember the brand name on the third brake light, but I had to wire it in.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Plasti dipped my 20's yesterday. Took about 6 hours, much much longer than I thought it would, but I am very pleased with the outcome.

 

eff9f5.jpg

 

2vwb795.jpg

 

rc3bpt.jpg

 

2qiryj6.jpg

Edited by nolabell
  • Like 2
Posted

That is a lot of work to mask them off. Some people just use a deck of cards around the rim. I like the just spray it and rub it right off the tire.

 

They look good.

Posted

IMG_0713_zpsuymeoueu.jpg

 

Plasti-dipped my tail pipe black to match my black ceramic exhaust tip. Now I no longer have my tailipipe sticking out through the fender well nor making the the tailpipe to tip transition ridoculously obvious.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,271 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...