Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The part numbers ending in 69 and 70 are $51.76 a piece. 71 and 72 are $61.60. These are for the Crew Cabs. I dont have the numbers for the Double Cab

thank you!

Posted

installed mine today took a total of about 5 minutes to put them on. removal is easy once you know how it works. ill get some pics up tomorrow as I was at work for most of the day.

 

step 1: roll down all the windows.

 

step 2: remove torx screw located in the door jam towards the rear of the doors on the front two doors (torx screw is on the front of the doors in the door jam on the back two doors. you have to pull back the weather stripping a little bit to see them. to pull the weather stripping back the edge is help on by a body pin. I used dikes and a towel so I didn't scratch the paint when prying the body pin out. then pull the weather stripping back like 2" and you will see the torx screw.)

 

step 3: using a long but thin flathead look between the window and the trim and you will see some white clips. you will have to use your fingers to pull the window back a little to get the screw driver between the window and trim in order to get to the clips. there are two grooves on the bottom of the clips (kinda like hooks) put the screw driver in there and pry them back towards the window and at the same time pull trim up. repeat this step three more times per trim (total of 4 clips that are evenly spaced out).

 

step 4: once all the clips are out, pull the trim towards the back of the truck to get it out from behind the mirror and it will slide right out. for the back doors trim I believe it is opposite when sliding the trim off or it may just come straight up.

 

step 5: do the exact opposite to reinstall the trim.

 

WARNING: do not try and force the trim up as the clips "lip" that hold on to the door is very small and can be broken very easily. pry on the clip bring the bottom of the clip towards the window and if it is fully released the trim will come up very easily, no force needed. also becareful when using a metal object to pry because im sure you cold potentially crack, chip or break your window.

  • Like 3
Posted

sorry i have not taken pics with the black window trim. i will try to take pics in a little while but my truck is in a parking garage at the moment so im not sure how good you will be able to tell.

Posted

Now Im torn, I added the chrome lower door moldings, door handles and mirror caps to my white Silverado and was going to add the chrome door trim, now looking at your sierra .......hmmm.....may keep the black.

Do you have a leveling kit installed? If so which one. Truck is really sharp!

Posted

Now Im torn, I added the chrome lower door moldings, door handles and mirror caps to my white Silverado and was going to add the chrome door trim, now looking at your sierra .......hmmm.....may keep the black.

Do you have a leveling kit installed? If so which one. Truck is really sharp!

 

no i dont have the leveling kit. it kinda just looks like it because of the tiny tires that come stock on the truck and the bad camera angle.

 

i just ordered some color matching door handles and mirror caps that i should get tomorrow that im about to install. and then level out my truck in the front.

Posted

thewhitestalion, well you convinced me ,,,,,,,,well sort of,,,,, to stay with the black window moldings. I think adding the chrome would be too much, probably the same reason you removed yours. Here are pics of my new Silverado, day I brought it home 3 weeks ago and today. I think accessorizing is complete. Well, maybe ...LOL.....WIndow tint is next. 20% over the back window and 35% on front doors....

 

 

post-87384-0-24984600-1390873064_thumb.jpg

post-87384-0-68115300-1390873075_thumb.jpg

post-87384-0-24984600-1390873064_thumb.jpg

post-87384-0-68115300-1390873075_thumb.jpg

post-87384-0-24984600-1390873064_thumb.jpg

post-87384-0-68115300-1390873075_thumb.jpg

post-87384-0-24984600-1390873064_thumb.jpg

post-87384-0-68115300-1390873075_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

2014 GMC Sierra CrewCab chrome window trim.

The prices are basically the same at most of the online retailers I checked. Free shipping is probably where you will see the difference.

post-127588-0-35567900-1392136064_thumb.jpg

post-127588-0-35567900-1392136064_thumb.jpg

post-127588-0-35567900-1392136064_thumb.jpg

post-127588-0-35567900-1392136064_thumb.jpg

Edited by 14SLTZ71
Posted (edited)

Anybody know the part number for the chrome middle lower portion that's on the 2014 LTZ front bumper (I think high country may be the same piece). It has the tow hooks on each side of it. You don't get it in chrome on the LTZ Z71.

Edited by 14SLTZ71
  • Like 1
Posted

Are you doing the install today? Wonder is anyone would be interested in my Z71 grill?

If you have the Chevy Z71 grille, I might... I have the Chevy LT grille (all silver)

Posted

I will have crew crab window trim molding in black available in a few weeks. If your interested let m know

Posted

Anybody know the part number for the chrome middle lower portion that's on the 2014 LTZ front bumper (I think high country may be the same piece). It has the tow hooks on each side of it. You don't get it in chrome on the LTZ Z71.

 

Yep, the part number is 22944882. Have one here new in the box. Was going to put it on, now not sure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...