Jump to content

Adding larger radio/mylink screen to 2014 Silverado?


Cook

Recommended Posts

Posted

For some reason it isn't letting me paste the other TSB in about the parts restriction

  • Replies 35
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

They make an aftermarket dash kit to swap in a single or double din radio. It includes the plastic surround and replaces the control knobs with a pocket. But you lose all the my link stuff and I'm not sure how that affects the cluster which can display the radio

 

This is sound advice. MyLink sucks. An aftermarket solution will be much better.

Posted

Thanks for the info. I can't imagine buying a loaded crew cab and smashing my screen on something and not being able to get the part myself. Not everyone is going to bring it in for service and pay the labor to install something that simple. I'm hoping to get part numbers so I can bypass the service desk.

 

When it comes to aftermarket solutions, I don't think they make a kit to utilize oem xm radio, Bluetooth, steering controls, etc. I have an advent ogm1 in my current truck which was nice because everything was retained.

Posted

Thanks for the info. I can't imagine buying a loaded crew cab and smashing my screen on something and not being able to get the part myself. Not everyone is going to bring it in for service and pay the labor to install something that simple. I'm hoping to get part numbers so I can bypass the service desk.

 

When it comes to aftermarket solutions, I don't think they make a kit to utilize oem xm radio, Bluetooth, steering controls, etc. I have an advent ogm1 in my current truck which was nice because everything was retained.

 

XM radio and Bluetooth radio will certainly work with an aftermarket HU. You won't be able to use voice commands.

 

Steering wheel control adapters will be available eventually. It seems most of us are disappointed with MyLink/Intellilink in the '14 truck, so you might want to consider what features are really the most important to you.

Posted

Here is a screenshot of the dash components the parts descriptions are highlighted on the right side. That VIN you provided didn't filter it all the way down there were still a couple possibilities. Below the screenshot are the part numbers and MSRP.

screenshot radio parts.pdf

screenshot radio parts.pdf

screenshot radio parts.pdf

screenshot radio parts.pdf

Posted

Aftermarket radio would probably be the best option. I know Alpine just released a 8 or 9 inch Perfect Fit kit at CES a week or so ago.

Posted

I saw a video of an alpine x008 in a 2014. Looks like I'll go that route. Picking up the truck tomorrow.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
    • Would this be normal or a worn CV Shaft? 51K miles 3.5" lift? Boots are intact and no visible leaks showing. Attached is a the video I took. Thanks     https://youtu.be/ZnW7PPRmjJY?feature=shared    
    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...