Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

A 1000 ohm resistor works to trick the light sensor. Only problem is your truck thinks its always daylight so your interior dash lights and radio/nav screen with stay bright as f*** (day mode) all night with no dim ability. Also, the green backlighting around the hvac controls does not come on in daytime mode.

Where do you place the resistor?
Posted (edited)

Where do you place the resistor?

Keep in mind, this will not disable your drl, this will disable your auto night lights feature. If you have a U.S truck, this will allow you to turn your low beams off while driving at night. For 2014 - 2015 Canadian trucks this mod is pretty pointless, unless you have already done the pin swap mod or some other mod to disable the drl.

Unplug the photocell but leave it installed in the dash, push the two pins of the resistor into two of the slots on the connector. There are actually three slots/wires in the connector so there are three combinations you need to try. Put your truck in drive, put the parking brake on, with the lights on "auto" your low beam and parking lamp should be on. You need to see which one of the three combinations turns off the parking lamps (because they're off in day mode). If you have already disabled your drl's then the parking lamps and low beams will turn off. Put tape around the connector and resistor so it doesnt fall out, tuck it into the dash and you're done.

Edited by mattblackout
Posted

Keep in mind, this will not disable your drl, this will disable your auto night lights feature. If you have a U.S truck, this will allow you to turn your low beams off while driving at night. For 2014 - 2015 Canadian trucks this mod is pretty pointless, unless you have already done the pin swap mod or some other mod to disable the drl.

Unplug the photocell but leave it installed in the dash, push the two pins of the resistor into two of the slots on the connector. There are actually three slots/wires in the connector so there are three combinations you need to try. Put your truck in drive, put the parking brake on, with the lights on "auto" your low beam and parking lamp should be on. You need to see which one of the three combinations turns off the parking lamps (because they're off in day mode). If you have already disabled your drl's then the parking lamps and low beams will turn off. Put tape around the connector and resistor so it doesnt fall out, tuck it into the dash and you're done.

Great info, thank you. On my 2015 Canadian Silverado there are 5 wires in a six slots connector for light sensor. I will try to find which two I need to short out with the resistor.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

In the under the hood it is not a fuse but Number 59 Relay. Taking it out doesnt work. They still go on! All this safety BS is for the Toads who tow Fifth wheels!

Remember HE ASKED WHERE THE FUSE IS DORKS!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have a 2014 silverado. I would like to have the GMC style with LED's. Does anyone know if it is possible / compatible to install the GMC light fixture on a Chevrolet? If not is there a third party product availble to acomplish this. I have looked but cannot find one.

 

Posted

I have a 2014 silverado. I would like to have the GMC style with LED's. Does anyone know if it is possible / compatible to install the GMC light fixture on a Chevrolet? If not is there a third party product availble to acomplish this. I have looked but cannot find one.

 

 

It's not possible. The grill, fenders, bumper, hood, and bumper filler are different between the GMC and Chevy.

Posted

 

It's not possible. The grill, fenders, bumper, hood, and bumper filler are different between the GMC and Chevy.

 

Thanks for the quick answer....

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Ok it's really easy there's a plug on your headlight just under the battery I believe the wire you want is gray but I'm not sure you will need a test light the yellow one in that plug will make you think you can use it but don't so with parking lights on test that plug there's like 5 wires on it 2 of the wires will be hot with the parking lights on but don't use Yellow tie in to the gray I think it is and that's your trigger pin 86 on a relay pin 30 goes to your + battery pin 85 battery ground pin 87 will be your new head light feed so here's what I did pull the bulb cover off and drilled a small hole just to the right of the round cover cut the red wire going to the headlight bulb and that's where 87 will tie into make sure to tape the other end of the red wire so it don't short your bcm

Punctuation and the enter key would help your posts read a lot better instead of one long rambling post - just sayin'

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I found on a 2015 Silverado 1500 that the BCM controls the DRL from two separate connectors - One says BK - I assume that is black - the other says BN - I assume that is brown.

 

Both DRL supply voltage are on pin 7 of their respective connectors.

 

BN is right - BK is left.

 

Right Front DRL Supply Voltage - wire color D-BU/BN - Is that dark blue/brown?

 

Left Front DRL Supply Voltage - wire color GY/D-BU - is that grey/dark blue?

 

If we cut or pull these from the BCM connector - will this effectively delete DRL from the headlights?

BCM Connector Left DLR.tiff

BCM Connector Right DLR.tiff

BCM Connector Left DLR.tiff

BCM Connector Right DLR.tiff

BCM Connector Left DLR.tiff

BCM Connector Right DLR.tiff

BCM Connector Left DLR.tiff

BCM Connector Right DLR.tiff

Edited by steveneddy
Posted

Seriously?

Seriously? WTF? There's no "G" on the plug. I know where it's supposed to be on the plug but the SLE (which I had at the time) doesn't have the last pins like the SLT. When this was posted (in '14) there wasn't a whole lot of knowledge on these plugs and this subject for DRL's on SLT vs. SLE for the '14's as just pulling the fuse on the GMT-900's. Seems you're coming on the forum to knock members posts and "so called" lack of typing skills towards member baking83. Dude really??? Seems you don't know much yourself after 2 years by all the questions from yourself. You did however pick the right avatar though...

Posted

Seriously? WTF? There's no "G" on the plug. I know where it's supposed to be on the plug but the SLE (which I had at the time) doesn't have the last pins like the SLT. When this was posted (in '14) there wasn't a whole lot of knowledge on these plugs and this subject for DRL's on SLT vs. SLE for the '14's as just pulling the fuse on the GMT-900's. Seems you're coming on the forum to knock members posts and "so called" lack of typing skills towards member baking83. Dude really??? Seems you don't know much yourself after 2 years by all the questions from yourself. You did however pick the right avatar though...

You're the first girl I have encountered on this forum. Go make someone a sandwich.

Posted

I found on a 2015 Silverado 1500 that the BCM controls the DRL from two separate connectors - One says BK - I assume that is black - the other says BN - I assume that is brown.

 

Both DRL supply voltage are on pin 7 of their respective connectors.

 

BN is right - BK is left.

 

Right Front DRL Supply Voltage - wire color D-BU/BN - Is that dark blue/brown?

 

Left Front DRL Supply Voltage - wire color GY/D-BU - is that grey/dark blue?

 

If we cut or pull these from the BCM connector - will this effectively delete DRL from the headlights?

 

This would be great if you could pull these out of the plug and run them to some add-on LED's. I like the idea of DRL but don't like them using the main headlights. Does anyone know if this socket is the same on a 2014?

Posted

 

This would be great if you could pull these out of the plug and run them to some add-on LED's. I like the idea of DRL but don't like them using the main headlights. Does anyone know if this socket is the same on a 2014?

 

I found the wiring for a 2014 here. Pages 42-45

 

https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/474/2014%20BBM%20Electrical%20section_10_18_2013_WIP.pdf

 

Does anyone know if I can take the DRL pins out of the plugs and use those wires for some add-on LED's? And would the headlights still operate as normal?

Posted

I found on a 2015 Silverado 1500 that the BCM controls the DRL from two separate connectors - One says BK - I assume that is black - the other says BN - I assume that is brown.

 

Both DRL supply voltage are on pin 7 of their respective connectors.

 

BN is right - BK is left.

 

Right Front DRL Supply Voltage - wire color D-BU/BN - Is that dark blue/brown?

 

Left Front DRL Supply Voltage - wire color GY/D-BU - is that grey/dark blue?

 

If we cut or pull these from the BCM connector - will this effectively delete DRL from the headlights?

 

These are the plugs that are under the dash , correct ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,973
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Gilkey96
    Newest Member
    Gilkey96
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 873 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.
    • Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!
    • I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less
    • Thanks for following along. I'm not author material, my tenses are all over the place and an editor would have a heck of a time cleaning up after me. Reading and writing is still a fun pastime though.   My new scanner came in yesterday, wow, where the heck has this thing been?! It connects right up to the Blazer, there's all kinds of bidirectional tests like EGR activation and percentage, toggle the fuel pump relay, EVAP purge valve, IAC control, AC relay, reset the transmission's adaptive learning, toggle shift solenoids and TCC lockup, and I can reset fuel trims with the click of a button...all things I could have used over the last 60 days!   It's also telling me there is a stored code in the ABS module for front left wheel sensor open and something about the brake switch. The ABS dash light works. It illuminates normally during the self-test at key on/ start and that's it. I cleared the codes and will see if they set when I take it out later. That, and I'm going to get (hopefully) real data on timing and cam ******. The PID's are there.   I connected the tool to my truck...holy smokes. Newer vehicles make early OBDII vehicles look like 8-bit, pixelated, early Nintendo stuff. This? This is like wearing 3D virtual reality goggles playing one of those elaborate, cinematic video games with seasons and plots in comparison. There are SO MANY modules and SO MANY tests and SO MUCH data. There's a scanner sequence for filling the coolant...   End of the day, it's a tool with way more power than I need, but the versatility to do old and new is there (and I need an adapter to connect it to my OBDI Camaro). It will allow me to do the first pass of diagnosis when out-of-warranty vehicles need help, and it will enable more DIY maintenance like brake system bleeding, ABS bleed, etc. I probably over-bought here, but, mission is accomplished.   Enjoy your Sunday...I need to shut this machine down and go get ready for the week ahead.
    • Not that I've read, after all the issues they've had in the past I'm pretty sure they learned their lesson. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...