Jump to content

Disabling Daytime Running Lights (DRL)

LTZTom

By LTZTom
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Matt DiMarco Enthusiast

Matt DiMarco

Posted
Posted

So all I have to do is in the headlight swap pin B and E on the left and B and E for the right?

 

also below is for 2015 sierra SLE 4wd

DOC1.pngDOC2.png

Yes, swap the pins inside the connector on the truck side. You don't need to touch the other side of the connector attached to the headlight.
  • Replies 319
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

MotoMedic
MotoMedic

"I was a firefighter for 30 years" sounds like a qualifying statement.. if not intended that way, my mistake. And I never said you were evil. I clearly stated "everyone should be free to choose if the

VMaxtastic
VMaxtastic

Why? They're for safety. Not sure if you've ever seen the result of a head on collision... I bet you would change your tune if you did.

VMaxtastic
VMaxtastic

I'll take paying for a bulb over getting smoked by someone that isn't paying attention any day. Lots of people are too clueless to turn on their headlights in low visibility conditions.. I personally

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...
Velocibiker Enthusiast

Velocibiker

Posted
Posted (edited)

What I'd like to have is the fogs act as my DRLs. But not have the parking lights come on as well. Could using relays work to turn on just the fogs? Everything else work as normal.

Edited by Velocibiker
  • 5 months later...
Cash459 New Member

Cash459

Posted
Posted

Correct... its very simple, just need some very fine point tools to get the pins out of the connector. Start by removing the 2 grey peices. there is one on the front and back of connector.

Sorry to dig up this old topic again but I'm trying to disable my DRLs & decided to do the pin swap method. I found the connector behind the headlight on the driver side & swapped the B & E pins but now I have another issue. When the headlight switch is in the "auto" position, the driver side headlight stays on as the DRL but the passenger side it's the parking light (amber). If I turn the headlight switch to the "on" position, then all the lights work normally. Am I doing something wrong or is there something else that I need to do? Or even worse, did I mess up something on my pins/connector? ANY help or guidance is GREATLY appreciated!!

Matt DiMarco Enthusiast

Matt DiMarco

Posted
Posted

Sorry to dig up this old topic again but I'm trying to disable my DRLs & decided to do the pin swap method. I found the connector behind the headlight on the driver side & swapped the B & E pins but now I have another issue. When the headlight switch is in the "auto" position, the driver side headlight stays on as the DRL but the passenger side it's the parking light (amber). If I turn the headlight switch to the "on" position, then all the lights work normally. Am I doing something wrong or is there something else that I need to do? Or even worse, did I mess up something on my pins/connector? ANY help or guidance is GREATLY appreciated!!

Start over.

Which year and model is your truck?

Did you swap the correct wires on the "truck side" of the headlight connector?

Did you do the same thing on both driver and pssenger side?

Sounds like you may have messed up the driver side since the low beam is staying on in daylight in the auto position.

Check your work, sometimes its better to put everything back to stock and start over.

Cash459 New Member

Cash459

Posted
Posted

Start over.

Which year and model is your truck?

Did you swap the correct wires on the "truck side" of the headlight connector?

Did you do the same thing on both driver and pssenger side?

Sounds like you may have messed up the driver side since the low beam is staying on in daylight in the auto position.

Check your work, sometimes its better to put everything back to stock and start over.

I have a 2015 Silverado LTZ.

 

Yes, I did swap the correct wires on the "truck" side of the drivers side (or at least I thought I did) but now that I'm having issues, I was thinking that I need to go back & switch everything back to original & start again.

 

I did not do the passenger side yet, only the driver side. I was trying to make sure I at least got one side correct before doing both.

 

I'll switch the driver side back to original, start with the passenger side next time & then go from there.

 

I'm also wondering if there is a wire that's loose in the connector on the driver side also because now when I put the truck in drive from park with the headlight switch in the "on" position, the passenger headlight cuts out completely.

 

Starting to think I created a gremlin. Hopefully putting everything back to original & starting over will fix the issues.

Cash459 New Member

Cash459

Posted
Posted

Anyone know what size/gauge wire to use to re-wire the factory harness??

 

My harness on the "truck"/female side seems to have some loose terminals & I plan on re-wiring it with new female connectors & a new harness housing to ensure that I don't have any issues moving forward.

 

Just want to make sure I use the right size wire for those terminals.

 

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions!

  • 1 month later...
Cash459 New Member

Cash459

Posted
Posted

Start over.

Which year and model is your truck?

Did you swap the correct wires on the "truck side" of the headlight connector?

Did you do the same thing on both driver and pssenger side?

Sounds like you may have messed up the driver side since the low beam is staying on in daylight in the auto position.

Check your work, sometimes its better to put everything back to stock and start over.

Sorry to bother you Matt, but you seem to be the only one still responding to this thread....

 

So I finally got the parking lights to be my DRLs with the wire swap you posted about but I had a couple of

quick questions:

1. Is there a way to have the fog lights on with the DRLs (now parking lights)?? Anytime I push the button for the fogs, my headlights turn on. Or is that just a sacrifice from the wire/pin swap?

 

2. ANY time I use my remote start function, the headlights automatically turn on. Is that a normal operation & is there a way to prevent that? I ask because I have HIDs installed & don't want to compromise the life of the bulbs from the constant on/off. Or is the only way to prevent that to do the trick of removing the spring from the auto control light switch & leaving it in the off position?

 

Thanks to any and all who can help with this...

Matt DiMarco Enthusiast

Matt DiMarco

Posted
Posted

Sorry to bother you Matt, but you seem to be the only one still responding to this thread....

 

So I finally got the parking lights to be my DRLs with the wire swap you posted about but I had a couple of

quick questions:

1. Is there a way to have the fog lights on with the DRLs (now parking lights)?? Anytime I push the button for the fogs, my headlights turn on. Or is that just a sacrifice from the wire/pin swap?

 

2. ANY time I use my remote start function, the headlights automatically turn on. Is that a normal operation & is there a way to prevent that? I ask because I have HIDs installed & don't want to compromise the life of the bulbs from the constant on/off. Or is the only way to prevent that to do the trick of removing the spring from the auto control light switch & leaving it in the off position?

 

Thanks to any and all who can help with this...

1. The fog lights trigger the amber lights. You are now using the amber light wire to power headlights. Unfortunately, you can not use fogs without low beams unless you buy a special harness online, not sure where. You will have to undo the pin swap mod.

2. This is a sacrifice you make for the pin swap, low beams come on when started remotely. I tapped into the trigger wire in the HID kit and put a toggle switch on my dash. As long as I leave the switch off. headlights stay off when i remote start. If it's dark flip the switch before you drive.

Matt DiMarco Enthusiast

Matt DiMarco

Posted
Posted

Sorry to bother you Matt, but you seem to be the only one still responding to this thread....

 

So I finally got the parking lights to be my DRLs with the wire swap you posted about but I had a couple of

quick questions:

1. Is there a way to have the fog lights on with the DRLs (now parking lights)?? Anytime I push the button for the fogs, my headlights turn on. Or is that just a sacrifice from the wire/pin swap?

 

2. ANY time I use my remote start function, the headlights automatically turn on. Is that a normal operation & is there a way to prevent that? I ask because I have HIDs installed & don't want to compromise the life of the bulbs from the constant on/off. Or is the only way to prevent that to do the trick of removing the spring from the auto control light switch & leaving it in the off position?

 

Thanks to any and all who can help with this...

Just want to add to my last post...

This may be obvious, but adding a toggle switch to the thin blue wire in the HID kit (the wire that conects to the trucks low beam bulb commector) will allow you to use your fogs without your low beams. Its easy and takes about 10 mins to run a wire through the firewall into your cabin.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
Kohl531 New Member

Kohl531

Posted
Posted
On 3/4/2016 at 8:37 AM, Matt DiMarco said:

You must have a Canadian truck. On US trucks the lights can be turned off while in drive. Im in Canada as well, I swapped the low beam wire with the parking lamp wire so the orange lights are on in daylight and the low beams still turn on automatically when it gets dark.

I have a 2014 GMC Sierra WT that is Canadian.  Will this mod work for my truck or just the silverados?  Sorry I’m new here 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Newduramaxh*ar
      DTC P2C48 auxiliary cooling pump

      By Newduramaxh*ar · Posted

      I tried tapping it.  This might sound like a dumb question, you should feel vibration or some type of noise when it turns on? Can someone please verify? Thank you all!
    • Chuck FB
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I feel better now for my own view point and actions or lack there of towards the dealership service theme reading your post and others. GM corporate is who offers the two free oil changes on the HD trucks and I bought my truck in Feb of 2025 and those oil change offers run out within 2 years I believe and I highly doubt I will be using either one of them. I had asked if I could officially give those free services to another customer ( a friend ) and they said no, its all a GM corporate thing based on the vehicle in question. What that service advisor did however was go into a little story about how such and such customer was denied engine warranty because he had done his own oil changes because then they are not documented ... you see where that goes and so an employee playing the game of scaring the customer into having the service work done there most certainly triggered my thought process. At a later date I did talk to the person who handles warranty claims at the dealership and she said to be sure to document the oil changes and keep receipts for the oil and filter ( coped the receipts from cases of Mobil oil and case of filters I bought from them ) and the vehicles VIN, the date of service, mileage etc and staple that together as a record I would give them if that was ever needed and I keep my own log book for services for each vehicle as well. Oh and about 8 months after I bought the truck the dealer starts calling me to offer a maintenance service since they haven't seen my vehicle show up on their system ... for the mere fee of 300.00 Canadian to change the oil and rotate the tires and a few other minor checks and I declined the offer, I get the call again a couple of months later for the same thing and she could tell I was not interested and she asked if they should take my name off the call list and I said yes, do that !.    By the way did you happen to keep your factory oil filter to open it up and see the surprises inside as I expect some will show up as per the odd little sliver of metal shaving and particles that the filter does trap along with bits of grey silicone sealer that come off of the inside edge of mating surfaces. I have cut open every filter so far on my truck although few miles but have changed the oil often and the second filter was vastly better with very little of anything, that first filter was the unsettling one as I expected it would be. 
    • OnTheReel
      OCI, not when but why?

      By OnTheReel · Posted

      I get why they do this…but man…not ideal. I only extract on inboard boat engines because the drains are buried and even then I hate it because it’s easy to leave a quart behind with that method.   They should market it as an “oil refresh” not oil change!
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      I only get oil changed where I can watch. Valvoline pulls through the dipstick into a see thru glass. When done they show me the dipstick. About the only way they can mess up is using the wrong oil. But that secret wouldn’t stay secret long. Honda uses TQ wrenches on everything. You can watch through a plate glass window. Discount tires does that with tires. Trust but verify. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I would not argue that with you. It would be pointless to argue against the truth and you speak the truth.    My question and in fact the entire point of this thread is an exploration into the levers of wear which happens no matter how well we maintain our powertrains.    Some of these levers we exert a good deal of influence over which can and do result is lower wear, longer powertrain life. Some others we are sort of stuck with.    An engine is typically done when the ring to bore seal no longer is able to do the job effectively. Normally the first thing to go in a engine otherwise well maintained and adult driven is this seal.    Looking into the means, methods, products and attitudes that influence the rate of wear seems a worthwhile inquiry to me.     

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...