Jump to content

Charging port outputs?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2015 which was in a flood so not sure if mine is different than yours. When I plug my 110 charger in I can hear a little whine or something from what must be the inverter which seems to be behind the drivers side fuse panel about your left knee in height. With the USB ports I cannot get my ipad to charge or light up when plugged in. They will power an iphone 6.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 39
  • Created
  • Last Reply
  • 2 months later...
Posted

I drop my iPad in the slot and set my iPhone on the console - both plugged in to the USB inside the console, and they both appear to charge fine. At least to meet my needs.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

This has been an interesting topic.  If I’ve been reading correctly;  USB ports put out 1.0 amp and cigarette lighter ports put out 2.0 amps?  Next question how do you measure amperage output to the device?  Is there a feature device or app that shows this?  Thanks for any info.   

Posted

Thanks.  Going to order one shortly.  There are a lot of choices though.  Do you have one and mind sharing the brand?  Much appreciated, SB

Posted

I don't have one. You could go to Amazon and read reviews for ones there. One note, you will see that many(actually quite a few) are identical but under different brand names or by different sellers. They are the same. The case colors may change and the display color different but again, they are the same. Pay attention to the display.

Posted

Thanks.  Yeh, I’ve been looking at Amazon.  And, you’re right about the component level being the same on most.  I do kinda like one that has the USB receptical on a pigtail.  Don’t have to contort one’s head to see the display.  I’ll probably buy that one.  

Posted
On 4/14/2014 at 11:51 PM, Crf450r420 said:

The reviews say you can change an iPad with the USB ports which take 2 amps, but my Note 3 phone also takes 2 amp charger. Yet when I charge with these ports I only get .5 amps. I am using an adapter from my old truck in the center console now to charge my phone. Anyone else getting a good change from the front 3 ports. LTZ model, so may not be the same on all.

 

Now the other question I have and could never find. What is the watt rating of the AC inverter?

 

Thanks

On my 2016, I see up to 1.5A on the USB port charging iphone.

IMG_7390.JPG

IMG_7393.JPG

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...