Jump to content

Brand New Yukon XL Back to dealer, again. Liftgate Pop


Gmjunky

Recommended Posts

Posted

CHSML might mean Center High-Mount Stop Light

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Follow-up:

 

GM's complaint line answer: there is nothing we can do. I asked, I will need to take it to work and will open it about 30 times a day and it might break if I force it to open. GM answer: No problem if it breaks it is under warranty... It is ashamed that it needs to break before it gets fixed !

 

Yesterday I picked up the truck from service where they have done nothing because the truck liftgate showed no sign of defect. As soon as they brought it out it had happend in front of them and they continued to say that they have no bulletin...WOW

 

Here is the video I took today...

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzOZE4YagDY&feature=youtu.be

 

Speechless....

Posted

Hi Froggy,

 

Can I be of assistance? I understand that you are frustrated with your current vehicle situation and that you are unhappy with the service you have received from GM. I am more than happy to look into this concern and reach out to your involved dealership to ensure that we are utilizing all of our resources to resolve this issue you are experiencing with your 2015 Suburban. Could you please private message me including your full name, phone number, VIN, current mileage, and involved dealership? I would like to create a case to document your concern.

 

Thank you,

 

Jennifer T.

GM Customer Care

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Ok....The truck was back at Serra Buick-GMC-Cadillac in Washington, MI for another six days and they waited AGAIN for them to observe the liftgate defect. GM told them to take the shims out from the spoiler and for them it worked....they called, told us it is ready and fixed and went back to get the truck, got it home and NOT WORKING. See video.

 

NOT ONLY that but the entire tailgate - liftgate is getting loose, twisting and it slams shut when it closes. Does not work properly.

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36HF37SkSwk&feature=youtu.be

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Ok....The truck was back at Serra Buick-GMC-Cadillac in Washington, MI for another six days and they waited AGAIN for them to observe the liftgate defect. GM told them to take the shims out from the spoiler and for them it worked....they called, told us it is ready and fixed and went back to get the truck, got it home and NOT WORKING. See video.

 

NOT ONLY that but the entire tailgate - liftgate is getting loose, twisting and it slams shut when it closes. Does not work properly.

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36HF37SkSwk&feature=youtu.be

 

This is insane! You can literally see the spoiler deforming when it binds against the roof in your video. It amazes me that this problem perplexes them. Great techs they have!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I am also having this problem. I bought mine in April and it has done it several times. Dealership cannot make it happen for them.

Please help me find a solution. It makes a loud pop then continues to open.

 

I am also having trouble with drivers seat moving when stopping, starting, or turning.

 

I am also having trouble with a scrubbing noise in the steering wheel. Seems to be in afternoon when hot. more turning to the right.

 

Of course the dealership did not find anything.

Posted

FWIW My new Tahoe must have conquered the problem so far no issues with the liftgate in any mode...It arrived this week...fuel trim error well thats something else.

 

 

fingered crossed XXXXX

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Sorry to see this maybe the reason delayed delivery times on the one I ordered to allow them to work out the kinks???

Posted

Insane!!!! Do service guys not do their own troubleshooting anymore!! The videos clearly show the problem!

 

Guess they sit and wait for GM to tell them what to do so the service department gets that warranty payment.

 

Seriously, ridiculous!

Posted

I am experiencing the same issue as of today on my 2015 black LTZ Tahoe. Just dropped it off at the dealership in Costa Mesa, CA, and the service manager was completely surprised to see I had the EXACT same issue as the black Suburban in front of me in the service line. Two black cars, same dealership with this issue within the HOUR.

 

This is completely unacceptable for a brand new $70k SUV in my opinion, and I seriously hope GM jumps on this issue ASAP. I will keep everyone posted on what they say/do.

Why should GM jump on this ASAP? Apparently people keep buying these vehicles at outrageously inflated prices, even though the quality has gone to crap. When they stop buying them, GM will get their act together or go under.Only the customers have the power to put a stop to this.

Posted

Is this hapening only with black cars?, It is insane we all having issues with this vehicles!!

Posted

Hello everyone,

 

I understand that some of you may have a concern regarding your new vehicle. I do apologize that you are experiencing these issues. I am happy to assist and work with your dealership to ensure that we are utilizing all of our resources to resolve these issue. Please private message me if I can be of further assistance.

 

Jennifer T.

GM Customer Care

Posted

....well that is a rather disingenuous response (typical) from customer service. Among the fundamental issues is we are not customers of General Motors. We are customers of the Dealer, who, in turn, is the customer of GM operating under some rather strict constraints. So basically, if you have a problem with your vehicle, GM tosses the problem over the transom to the Dealer to resolve...even if that problem was caused by or is the fault of GM! You'd think that might work but since there is a real serious failure to communicate (equally) to the dealer community, the dealer is handcuffed. The dealer's ability to work through the issues with GM will be directly related to dealer size and volume. If you live in a small market, you're effectively toast. All GM CAC can do is say "sorry" or "apologize" (they really aren't sorry...it's their job to say that) and as quickly as possible dump it off on someone else (like the dealer). Follow up? Nah ... unless you contact CAC again. And again. And again. I think they learned this from the airlines ... if you drag it out long enough the flight will depart...problem solved. CAC doesn't call back. You can send emails. You can call and leave voice mail and never get a response (and if you do it is "sorry") and never get forward progress. If you do actually speak with someone (or with the GM Regional employee with the dealer), what happens at the end of the conversation? "hey...it was that guy again [laughter]". Don't think so? I witnessed and overheard just exactly that. Poor sod just trying to resolve an issue he was promised would be resolved. I guess they didn't tell him how many years that would take.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...