Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

They're 18" Methods... do they are a +18 offset

They have 3 offsets in the 18, +18, 0, and -12

Edited by jrob56
Posted (edited)

in the 6x5.5 bolt pattern they only have +18 and -12 for those particular wheels.
My mistake on that.

But those are +18 for sure. The -12 stick out way more than that.

Edited by tyrich88
Posted

in the 6x5.5 bolt pattern they only have +18 and -12 for those particular wheels.

My mistake on that.

 

But those are +18 for sure. The -12 stick out way more than that.

 

I got yeah, was thinking they were 0 just by looking. Didnt know they didnt have 0 in 18.

Posted

So here she is.

3 inch level

20x9 +1 fuel.couplers

Toyo at2 ext 285/55/20

 

Curious on what tire pressure I should run. Currently at 36 all around...also what is a good cheap tpms reset tool

a7a4cc8975d127735a64efd93f5dcf89.jpg8ad1419bd2dafd2f085450b950bbb0a4.jpg8c1b22fbf1174dfc8cea4fddb6450f06.jpg0237328233799f8fa416c320182cf5c2.jpg

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

  • Like 5
Posted
Supersierra,

Is there a way to see what tpms they are compatible with. Got the wheels at custom offsets and the put in uvs3011 sensors. Just want to make sure they will match up

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Posted

Supersierra,

Is there a way to see what tpms they are compatible with. Got the wheels at custom offsets and the put in uvs3011 sensors. Just want to make sure they will match up

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

I wouldn't see why not, if you told the shop what vehicle the tpms are going on. I personally would message the seller of the scanner and just ask to make sure.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I wouldn't see why not, if you told the shop what vehicle the tpms are going on. I personally would message the seller of the scanner and just ask to make sure.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

K I just looked. Looks like the sensors included work off of 315 MHz. On Amazon the description says 315 and 433 MHz so I'll assume it should be good. Thanks bud

 

 

Edited due to I had put the wrong frequency. Now they are correct

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Edited by Jeff5347
Posted (edited)

K I just looked. Looks like the sensors included work off of 315 MHz. On Amazon the description says 325 and 422 MHz so I'll assume it should be good. Thanks bud

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Don't worry about it man, I need to order the same one for myself I bought new tpms and have yet to put them in.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by SuperSierra
Posted

Don't worry about man, I need to order the same one for myself I bought new tpms and have yet to put them in.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fixed my previous post. I put in the wrong freqs. Edited the post for the correct freqs

 

But any advice on tire pressure to use on the at2's? At 36 now

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Posted

So here she is.

3 inch level

20x9 +1 fuel.couplers

Toyo at2 ext 285/55/20

 

Curious on what tire pressure I should run. Currently at 36 all around...also what is a good cheap tpms reset tool

 

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

 

Truck looks real good man! How you liking your Toyos?

Posted

9fcf0b59e3c4c7e2ca01c80cecad9c4d.jpg

2014 GMC Sierra All Terrain 20x10 -12 offset Fuel Mavericks with All Terrain tires 305/55/r20 has Rancho Quick Lift leveling kit Struts on the front

 

 

SuperAllTerrain

 

What tires are those? Kinda look like the Hankook AT tires, but can't too good & good do you like em?

Posted (edited)

 

 

Truck looks real good man! How you liking your Toyos?

thanks alot. So far I like em alot. Only a few miles but actually ride pretty darn good

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Edited by Jeff5347
Posted
So here she is.

3 inch level

20x9 +1 fuel.couplers

Toyo at2 ext 285/55/20

 

What level are you running?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

3 inch motofab front and 3 inch blocks in rear

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 326 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...