Jump to content

Blower motor wiring

rudyb

By rudyb
in Ask A GM Technician

Recommended Posts

rudyb Enthusiast

rudyb

Posted
Posted

Hello all! I recently purchased a blower and motor to vent hot air from my garage. I'm not very familiar with alternating current. It would be awesome if some of you could help me understand the wiring diagram and get me going. So far I know that I need this to run on 110v AC. I know it is a single phase motor. I have read that sometimes it can be tricky to wire a single phase motor for clockwise rotation if it is designed for counterclockwise rotation. Motor specs show that this motor is CCW (http://m.globalindustrial.com/m/p/motors/ac-motors-2-phase/capacitor-start-motors/c1333-5kc49pn6062-1-3hp-1140rpm-115-208-230v-1ph-56-fr-tefc). I have two main problems: rotation can be interpreted differently depending on which end you look at, so I don't know which direction is clockwise and via versa. The second problem is that I just don't know how to read the diagram. I have taken a picture of both the diagram and how the motor is installed to help with direction of rotation. Could someone tell me what wires need to be hook to what? The chord that will plug into the wall has three leads: white, black, and green. Thanks for your help!

 

Rudy

 

 

Here are the pictures mentioned above:

http://roodeebee.blogspot.com/2014/06/wiring-ac-motor.html

00Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

00Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted

Black will be your "hot" wire, white will be your "common" wire and the green will be ground. Inside the motor may show a gold, silver and green connectors. Typically with AC, gold is for the black wire, silver for the white wire and green for green. Now as far as the fan itself, will it mount on the shaft in either way. Meaning if it turns the wrong way for you can you flip the fan so it "changes" the direction of air flow? That would be the simplies way to change rather than trying to change the motor wiring. Unfortuanately I can't seem to open your second link, my computer problem. Does any of this help? If not I apologize.

rudyb Enthusiast

rudyb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

06SierraZ71, thanks for the reply. I'm sorry you can't see the pictures. The pictures show a diagram listing the wires and their corresponding color. It also shows how the motor is mounted and oriented. The wire colors in the motor are red, orange, yellow, blue, black, and white. Changing the orientation of the motor isn't very simple, unless I'm just being dumb and overlooking something. Does the link/pictures work for everyone else or is it something I did? I would like to put them directly on this forum, but it seems difficult to do when posting from and iphone. Sorry.

 

Govtech4, thanks for your reply as well. I do feel comfortable doing this. I just need a shove in the right direction so I don't burn up a $150+ motor with the flick of a switch.

rudyb Enthusiast

rudyb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Swapping wires eh? No wires are hooked up. There are six and I'm assuming at least three need to be hooked up. I guess no one knows how to hook up an AC motor...

00Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

00Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted

Can you get a picture of the electrical box on the motor? That may give me a better idea of what I'm looking at since I can't get the diagram to come up on my computer.

Mike-1000 Enthusiast

Mike-1000

Posted
Posted

The motor is shown as 115/230. The left side of the diagram is for LO voltage. That's the diagram you want. Ignore the right half of the diagram as it's for HI voltage or /230v. The badge also says the rotation is designated from viewing the lead end (LE) of the motor. That's the end where the leads (wires) come out of the motor. If you can't tell where the leads come from just hook it up and if the rotation is not what you want, the badge says you just switch the black and red leads coming out of the motor.

 

So...for rotation as the badge shows, CCWLE, the connections are...

 

Black

White

Yellow

Tie all three to your black 115v lead. (Polarity is not indicated on the badge so either the black or white 115v lead should work.)

 

Blue

Orange

Red

Tie all three to the white 115v lead.

 

It shows grounding "if required" so if you don't have a separate green lead screwed to the motor or elec. box on the motor you can connect your own to the box and then connect it to the ground (green) lead in your 115v cord or plug. Or you can connect your green ground lead (from your cord) directly to the elec. box on the motor.

 

Leave the cover plate off...you may need in there one more time.

 

Power it up. If rotation is not as desired, switch the red and black wires coming from the motor. So that would be.....

 

Red

White

Yellow

Tie to black from 115v

 

Blue

Orange

Black

Tie to white from 115v

 

All of this info is shown on your badge. You just have to de-code it a little.

 

Mike

rudyb Enthusiast

rudyb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mike you're awesome That's the exact reply I needed. It works! I'll reply with more details later. Thanks man! :D

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Slate Electric Truck

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Most say the oil temperature needs to above the boiling point of water to rid it of moisture and long enough to dry it. Many think that is about a hour at 212 F or more. Those people have never line dried cloths in a Midwest winter. Leave a pan of water sitting on the counter and eventually it all evaporates. So heat drives the time it takes. Water in oil under 175 F, the Nitration initiation temperature, is a minimum then for temperature and samples I've done that use Karl Fisher method say about a hour (in a healthy well tuned motor) over 175 F will dry it to under 800 ppm. Low enough to not be much of a factor. Motors with weak rings will take longer and the colder the air temperature the longer it takes.   On a cold motor there is also the condensation temperature. Blowby gases that contain moisture are subject to that cold cylinder wall, like sweat on a glass of ice tea. But also subject to the Law of Partial Pressures. Wear studies by GM and the DOD  indicate wear is a real issue below 85 F and a concern to 140 F but doesn't become a minimal factor until about 160 F. You know this intuitively when you see water vapor exit the exhaust pipe until the system gets above the dew point. It isn't magic, it's physics and it fascinates me. I know you didn't ask but....I over share sometimes. 😉    You keep the Camaro's high and tight.  
    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Move further away.   Benefit of living out - none of our cars get short cycled, plenty of warm up time.   Curious how much time/temperature it takes to drive moisture/condensation out of the engine?
    • diyer2
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By diyer2 · Posted

      Switch a a 100% synthetic trans fluid, Amsoil works for me.
    • DustMcGrath
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By DustMcGrath · Posted

      First of all sorry, I know there are a ton of transmission temperature threads...   My truck is a 2025 LZ0 High (10l89 10-speed) High Country with NHT max trailering package. The NHT package is supposed to have "enhanced cooling."   Normally the trans temp sits around 200. It seems like with any real stress it quickly jumps into the 220s (for example climbing a grade unloaded at lower speeds). I haven't towed much with this truck, but I'm concerned if it gets this hot unloaded.    I've tried a few different things to keep the temps down (tow/haul mode, sport mode, low range when that makes sense) and nothing seems to affect it.    I'm curious if others are the same behavior or if anyone has found techniques to keep the temps down. It seems like it just can't handle reduced airflow at lower speeds, even with relatively light loading.    Thanks!      
    • cautious optimist
      2027 3.0 l Duramax

      By cautious optimist · Posted

      I'm at 105,000 miles on my baby Duramax. No issues yet. I hit 31 mpg's traveling through hilly terrain to a project in Colorado. I will buy another 3.0. I'm not concerned.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...