Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Thinking I'll rebuild the original 400. Should I try to hunt down the top end and have to pay whatever they want( because if someone tracks you down wanting to buy the original equipment from a classic car, you charge whatever you want), or just buy a second set of CV-1 heads(the best Pontiac V8 heads, and just about $500 more than a set of Edelbrock heads) and call it a day?

 

I'm in no rush, probably wouldn't even have the block machined until next year. I don't think it has ever been machined, all the stampings are crystal clear.

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

Thinking I'll rebuild the original 400. Should I try to hunt down the top end and have to pay whatever they want( because if someone tracks you down wanting to buy the original equipment from a classic car, you charge whatever you want), or just buy a second set of CV-1 heads(the best Pontiac V8 heads, and just about $500 more than a set of Edelbrock heads) and call it a day?

 

I'm in no rush, probably wouldn't even have the block machined until next year. I don't think it has ever been machined, all the stampings are crystal clear.

If it were me, i would try and hunt down the top end and at least see what they wanted for it, then go with what option 2 is if they are wanting more than you are willing to spend.

Posted

Ahhh, two of the three quarts of the gear oil a page or two back I found was opened. Need another quart now.

 

Guess I'll pull out those old reciepts for the firebird and hope the second owner still has that phone number on them, and still has the phone number for who hebsold the heads to. If he sold them on eBay that could be over quick.

Posted (edited)

Check it out, look familiar? This is my car in its drag days

http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/events/hppp_0903_2008_inaugural_pontiac_spring_nationals/photo_10.html

 

Most of the engine receipts are from 08. Then there is one from early 2013 with new head gaskets on it. Guessing he took off the blower and did a mild tear down before the guy sold in to the previous owner in late 13.

Edited by SnakeEyes
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Was going to have my AC and sub $1000 body issue handled by the same shop, I called them and they said not to run by anytime soon, they have two projects approaching deadlines and can't start on anything new for 2-4 weeks(they do classics exclusively). I remembered a shop by my work has a classic sitting out now and then. I called them and they put me directly in touch with the classic car guy there the second I asked if they can handle classic. The guy spoke my language.

 

He said that is a common problem with F-bodys and Impalas(true) and that he would only put new metal there if it actually need work or even replacing and not just a respray on that spot(perfect answer).

 

Winner winner chicken dinner. He wants to see the car as soon as I can bring it but can't start for two weeks. That works, It'll probably be at the AC shop for a week if they need to order new fittings from Vintage Air.

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

Shocked me actually.

 

 

Ryan

Posted

My Roto-Fab intake came in, waiting on my catch can and GTO clutch reservoir to come in. Then I'll put them all on the Camaro.

 

 

Sent from my MaxiPad

Posted (edited)

Congrats Ryan.

 

Dropped the bird off at the AC shop. Interestingly, the guy told me almost every classic they do is like mine, part of its already done they just finish the install.

 

They will start tonight or tomorrow, a mustang being restored is a few days late and the guy hasn't told them anything so I'm getting his spot in line. He said he figures at most 3 days(might have to refresh the compressor since the oil in it needs to be drained, then all the components internally cleaned, since it's been out of service for an unknown amount of time)

 

The driver side quarter has to wait a month, the other shop I went too told me to call on the 18th and see if they are ready for it). This shop did a car for an Edelbrock top guy (the orange and white 68 http://www.popularhotrodding.com/events/1405_edelbrock_car_show_top_10_picks_ninth_annual_revved_up_4_kids/ ) and builds 30s hot rods for charity auctions.

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

My Roto-Fab intake came in, waiting on my catch can and GTO clutch reservoir to come in. Then I'll put them all on the Camaro.

 

 

Sent from my MaxiPad

What catch can!

 

 

Ryan

Posted

What catch can!

 

 

Ryan

 

I got an APEX. Great deal I couldn't pass up and super service.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...