Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

5681342e63116610aa0f4c6e599f1c9e.jpg

 

Rims with brake dust

 

377e49abd025bb2d2352dfa555ce253f.jpg

 

Cleaned

 

ad6d18218cd1bb7154268f847cd68eb1.jpg

 

 

Ryan

Posted (edited)

Tracing an ignition problem. Don't think the Digital 6 plus is getting power. Troubleshooting later.

 

Incredible clouds and sunset. Was going for pics, but never got going. :(

 

Seriously thinking of selling. I don't care if its finally straightened out, it's not like it would be gone tomorrow, I'd expect 6-9 months to find someone that wants a firebird with a completely built $$$ Pontiac engine and drivetrain.

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

Tracing an ignition problem. Don't think the Digital 6 plus is getting power. Troubleshooting later.

 

Incredible clouds and sunset. Was going for pics, but never got going. :(

 

Seriously thinking of selling. I don't care if its finally straightened out, it's not like it would be gone tomorrow, I'd expect 6-9 months to find someone that wants a firebird with a completely built $$$ Pontiac engine and drivetrain.

Why?

Posted (edited)

Why?

Because working this car out has been a pain. Like I said, its pretty much worked out(except for my current problem) Example, I posted this on the Camaro site I frequent:

 

FOUR LETTER WORDS! FOUR LETTER WORDS!

 

 

THE BUTTWIPE THAT WIRED THIS CAR. Guess what he did!

 

The guy.....aaarrrrgggg....so I'm trying to trace all the wires and trouble shoot because the coil should have blown up my voltmeter but didn't. No spark. I'm tracing the ignition switchable wire from the MSD digital 6 plus, the thin RED one. But it disappears. So I have to take off some of the 8 hours worth of zip ties and powerbraid which puts me in a bad mood. And my back already hurts(old spinal injury), so I'm in a bad mood already.

 

I Look at the other end of the dash and no friggin red wire. I take off everything on that part of the 6 plus wires(and learned my lesson, using Velcro ties now).

 

I see the ignition wire was too short so he connected it to a white wire, and ran it along the tach wire, which is white. What kind of bonehead.... Anyway, I look on driver side again.....only one white wire. A TACH wire. What the.... I trace it back a ways, and find the other white wire....which is now connected a YELLOW wire. Then I move to get out from under the dash and my back was just shy of giving out. Can't stand up straight right now. Not a great day. To be continued. Wonder how many more colors were used to extend it.

 

AAAAAHHHHHH! How hard is it to buy one wire that is long enough and the same color as the original wire!

 

Still have the main power wire to trace also. Scared to even try.

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

Kind of reminds me of the old roadrunners and barracudas of the 70s and 80s . The problem was they were my DD so when they didn't start I had to fix them right now or walk. The good old days. Electric problems were normal for them.

Posted (edited)

6+ has power again, all I did was unplug a relay and plug it back in, and then slightly move a wire bundle.

 

It tried to start, then went back to normal cranking, so I pulled a plug and set it on valve cover while I was cranking it over, didn't see spark. But, it did try to start, so I'm just hunting around again.

 

Hoping it just flooded and I'm soark-blind and it will magically start when I can get back to it later. :lol:

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

If it was mine I'd be tempted to rewire the whole thing. I hate chasing stuff around. Besides rewiring most of a car would keep you busy a while.

Posted (edited)

If it was mine I'd be tempted to rewire the whole thing. I hate chasing stuff around. Besides rewiring most of a car would keep you busy a while.

I don't need to be busy for a while. I barely have time for this, just work on it during my kids naps

 

 

The magic didn't happen. I put a voltmeter on the 6 Plus's orange and black wire that power the coil. On VDC and VAC it read nothing so I set the Volt meter to 9v battery, and it read .16-.25 volt during cranking, so I doubt its the coil.

 

I wish I knew someone nearby with a MSD ignition system, so I could just swap my coil on their car and see if it would start.

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted (edited)

Getting ready to dive back in. Tracing the positive power now. The box's ignition wire is getting 12v, so that is all that is left really is that main power wire. If it is getting 12v I guess I'll start replacing stuff

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

It's alive again. Started getting power to certain circuits while I was testing them. I kept thinking it was a relay(that hmshould even be wired to the box power line). And suddenly it was getting close to 12v and so I put the coil wire on and it started and ran.

 

This car is REAL close to being named Christine. :lol:

  • Like 1
Posted

IMPD car show today. Good times. Tomorrow we are doing a covered bridge cruise

 

bd63edb4e108d2eb150dcc5ecf031705.jpg

 

48f498b7c5c826a41268305d86737f95.jpg

 

 

Ryan

Posted (edited)

Finally got some decent pics!

 

And of course, on a country road shot, some people pull on the road as soon as I stop, its usually empty. Oh well, got a good shot though.

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

Nice

 

Seen this car today it was nice

 

696017f451cae9f0d33483ddc7d6109b.jpg

 

 

Ryan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,127 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...