2015 YUKON NOISE IN CABIN

jasondenali15 · March 30, 2015

I have a 2015 Yukon XL (SLT) 4x4 and it has the same noise problem. I have about 5,500 miles on mine. It's most noticeable between 35 and 45 MPH, in 6th gear when in the V4 mode.

I have had it to three GMC dealers. The latest dealer (Liberty Buick/GMC in Charlotte, NC) has had it for a week and they are removing and re-gluing to roof now. I do not think this will solve the problem, but it's what GMC wants to do.

If the issue is not resolved I am going to request GM buy my Yukon back. If they will not I will turn it over to my attorney for resolution. I have owned many Tahoe's, Suburbans and Yukons over the years, but I cannot live with my 2015 Yukon. So disappointing.

Don't waste any more of your time (and value of the buyback). Get your money back ASAP! There is NO fix and no one can tell you why one is "good" and others are "bad." There is a quality control issue somewhere down the line and GM has not figured it out. Get your money back...the headaches (literal and figurative) are not worth it.

Dadof4 · March 30, 2015

Hi all, we requested a buyback from GM. Sounds like the process is that they contact the dealer, and the dealer really has the call. Unfortunately, the dealer where we bought ours, has initially stated they will not buyback the vehicle, but they will do a trade in. I find it highly unlikely that I'll come out anywhere close to even in this transaction.

We essentially paid $73k after sales tax. They'd have to give us at least 67-68k for the trade, and take another 5k+ off the price for whatever vehicle we decide to replace it with.

I really hope I don't have to start something with our Attorney General and get lawyers involved. Looks like I might have to threaten to go to the dealership every weekend and make a scene in front of all the prospective buyers.

Handouts might be a good idea too. I could hand them out to everyone who comes on the lot. $70k for a car that runs like a POS, and they do NOTHING to help!

likeschevy · March 30, 2015

Yea, that is the million dollar question, isn't it?

Since yours has no noise issues, could I ask you to do me a favour? Go sit in the rear (2nd row) seat and swing the door open and closed through the detents that hold it open. Either side. Go back and forth several times, not too fast. Tell me if you hear anything. Much appreciated!

I sat in the back and opened the door thru the detents, and It did seem to make a noise when it hit the detents. I compared it to the rear doors on my gmc crew cab and I would say the suburban was louder, but I dont get that sound going down the road. If that is the sound you get that everyone is talking about driving down the road I now understand. I dont get why our suburban doesnt do it while driving.

Our suburban does not have ANC according to other posts that listed the codes for installed options. Maybe that has something to do with not hearing the noise.

Edited March 30, 2015 by likeschevy

jasondenali15 · March 30, 2015

Dadof4: Go to a physician...document your headaches. Your wife too. Miss a few days from work. Take them down the path you intend to go. Their story will change. They know if you can spend $73k for a truck, you can afford a good attorney.

There is a regional customer service person which actually handles buybacks. The exact title is "District Manager, Aftersales." Your dealer gets the approval from this person. Your dealer has a say, not the entire say so in the matter. I would seek out this person immediately.

As a reminder, I had TWO GM buybacks. The dealer was told what to do by the District Manager. They knew which direction I was going to go if I did not get my satisfactory resolution. I received full payment on both buybacks. Stay firm and demand the contact info of the DM. Go behind the dealer's back to have the decision made for him.

Edited March 30, 2015 by jasondenali15

Wrench589 · March 30, 2015

I sat in the back and opened the door thru the detents, and It did seem to make a noise when it hit the detents. I compared it to the rear doors on my gmc crew cab and I would say the suburban was louder, but I dont get that sound going down the road. If that is the sound you get that everyone is talking about driving down the road I now understand. I dont get why our suburban doesnt do it while driving.

Our suburban does not have ANC according to other posts that listed the codes for installed options. Maybe that has something to do with not hearing the noise.

Yes, that is definitely the sound i hear at lower speeds over bumps and any other roughness on the road. But, I am not 100% sure it is the "buffeting" and "pressure" that we hear/feel at highway speeds. It is entirely possible that is something else. Based on a ton of research I have done of technical papers published on the topic, there are multiple things at play on this issue and I do not have enough dat to make that connection. But, I am highly convinced the low speed "boom" is from the rear doors.

FYI, i did the same test on both rentals we had from the dealer, one 2015 Tahoe, the other a 2015 Suburban, and both make the boom noise with the rear doors. And, neither was equipped with ANC.

I have spent a far bit of time trying to figure out exactly what is generating the noise when the door is excited by the detent, but to be honest I'm not really finding anything obvious. The door itself jiggles a fair bit, but I dont see how it can make the noise inside when it's open. The door post doesn't seem to vibrate much, so doesn't appear to be mechanically transferring through the hinges. But, could be.

One last thing - I also held the door about half way open and lightly kicked the bottom of it with the toe of my boot, about in the middle, on the rubber seal, mostly in an upwards vertical dirtection. The "boom" it makes inside is even more noticeable then from the detents. So, it's the door itself, not the detents, that is doing something.

Thanks for doing that and posting. Helps to know I'm not the only one seeing that.

By the way, do you have the cross bars installed on your roof rack?

Wrench589 · March 30, 2015

Don't waste any more of your time (and value of the buyback). Get your money back ASAP! There is NO fix and no one can tell you why one is "good" and others are "bad." There is a quality control issue somewhere down the line and GM has not figured it out. Get your money back...the headaches (literal and figurative) are not worth it.

It's definitely not looking like there is a fix any time soon. I was hoping that the Dynamat may have made a difference, but to be honest I'm not even sure it's the roof at this point. Everything I've read suggests the natural freqency of the roof is quite abit higher then the frequency I'm measuring, so short of doing some complicate FEA, kind of back to square one. My guess is that there is a pretty good chance GM knows exactly what the problems is, but the fix is impracticle. Would mean substantial re-design. Not looking too promising.

likeschevy · March 30, 2015

Yes, that is definitely the sound i hear at lower speeds over bumps and any other roughness on the road. But, I am not 100% sure it is the "buffeting" and "pressure" that we hear/feel at highway speeds. It is entirely possible that is something else. Based on a ton of research I have done of technical papers published on the topic, there are multiple things at play on this issue and I do not have enough dat to make that connection. But, I am highly convinced the low speed "boom" is from the rear doors.

FYI, i did the same test on both rentals we had from the dealer, one 2015 Tahoe, the other a 2015 Suburban, and both make the boom noise with the rear doors. And, neither was equipped with ANC.

I have spent a far bit of time trying to figure out exactly what is generating the noise when the door is excited by the detent, but to be honest I'm not really finding anything obvious. The door itself jiggles a fair bit, but I dont see how it can make the noise inside when it's open. The door post doesn't seem to vibrate much, so doesn't appear to be mechanically transferring through the hinges. But, could be.

One last thing - I also held the door about half way open and lightly kicked the bottom of it with the toe of my boot, about in the middle, on the rubber seal, mostly in an upwards vertical dirtection. The "boom" it makes inside is even more noticeable then from the detents. So, it's the door itself, not the detents, that is doing something.

Thanks for doing that and posting. Helps to know I'm not the only one seeing that.

By the way, do you have the cross bars installed on your roof rack?

No our suburban only has the two long racks running from front to back hope everything works out hate to see folks having a problem.

Anon2015 · April 3, 2015

It's definitely not looking like there is a fix any time soon. I was hoping that the Dynamat may have made a difference, but to be honest I'm not even sure it's the roof at this point. Everything I've read suggests the natural freqency of the roof is quite abit higher then the frequency I'm measuring, so short of doing some complicate FEA, kind of back to square one. My guess is that there is a pretty good chance GM knows exactly what the problems is, but the fix is impracticle. Would mean substantial re-design. Not looking too promising.

BEA likely a better choice...but too time consuming and "not my job".

jer1346 · April 6, 2015

I have a 2015 Yukon XL (SLT) 4x4 and it has the same noise problem. I have about 5,500 miles on mine. It's most noticeable between 35 and 45 MPH, in 6th gear when in the V4 mode.

I have had it to three GMC dealers. The latest dealer (Liberty Buick/GMC in Charlotte, NC) has had it for a week and they are removing and re-gluing to roof now. I do not think this will solve the problem, but it's what GMC wants to do.

If the issue is not resolved I am going to request GM buy my Yukon back. If they will not I will turn it over to my attorney for resolution. I have owned many Tahoe's, Suburbans and Yukons over the years, but I cannot live with my 2015 Yukon. So disappointing.

So Liberty Buick/GMC has had my Yukon XL for 2 weeks now. The removed and reinstalled the roof skin, but it did not solve the problem. Now GM is sending them a complete new exhaust system that is "supposed" to fix the problem. If this does not fix it I will push for buy-back. I did want to say the Service Dept at Liberty has been great to work with. They have stayed in touch and gave me a nice Buick SUV to drive. Very satisfied with Liberty's handing of this issue.

jasondenali15 · April 6, 2015

So Liberty Buick/GMC has had my Yukon XL for 2 weeks now. The removed and reinstalled the roof skin, but it did not solve the problem. Now GM is sending them a complete new exhaust system that is "supposed" to fix the problem. If this does not fix it I will push for buy-back. I did want to say the Service Dept at Liberty has been great to work with. They have stayed in touch and gave me a nice Buick SUV to drive. Very satisfied with Liberty's handing of this issue.

Keep us posted on the "exhaust fix"...first I have heard of that one. Please be sure to share the results others on this site. Many are desperate for a solution. Hope it works for you!

Wrench589 · April 6, 2015

Keep us posted on the "exhaust fix"...first I have heard of that one. Please be sure to share the results others on this site. Many are desperate for a solution. Hope it works for you!

Jason, you changed your picture! Nice bike!

Yea, the exhaust is a new twist for sure. Not sure about that but for sure let us know what happens.

Did they install a complete new roof skin on yours, jer1346? Wow. Haven't heard of that before.

I am starting to look more and more at the wheels/tires and suspension. I did some tests on the highway at different speeds and confirmed that the frequency of the peak noise changes with speed as ind is 2x the tire frequency. What is confusing is that every once in a while, the vehicle is stone silent...for a while. Like last Friday. Left the parking lot and drove about 8 km on pavement at about 65 kph. Not a sound. Got on the highway, and everything started up again. Pulled into town and back down to 50 and 60 kph speeds and it was terribly nosing again. So why the change?

Is it something in the shocks?

I am really wondering about the tires. Been doing some reading. Note this - GM is putting "H" speed rated tires on these vehicles. H rated tires are for sport sedans and coupes running sustained speeds of 130 mph! In order for a tire to do that, if must have a very strong nylon belt around the diameter to hold it together and be very stiff so it doesn't generate excessive heat. That's right...stiff. Combined with the stiffer frame, stiffer body, stiffer body mounts, stiffer suspension springs....sounds like a formula for noise ride. And, GM has a TSB that states that before doing and vibration diagnostics or tire balancing, the vehicle must be driven a certain distance after sitting to work out the flat spot in the nylon belt. Hmmmmm. Sounds awfully suspicious.

I would love to try a set of S rated 20" tires on mine to see the difference. My guess is that S rated tires would be significantly softer. But, pretty expensive experiment!

jasondenali15 · April 7, 2015

Jason, you changed your picture! Nice bike!

Thank you! Had to make the change considering the 2015 Denali is gone... I know you are on to something with the shocks. They sent out new shocks directly from the proving grounds on my first repurchased Denali. It did not solve the problem with the ear pressure and buffeting, but the field engineer thought that could have been the issue. In any event, I am intrigued by the exhaust fix...Let's hope it helps someone out there.

jer1346 · April 7, 2015

Don't think they applied a new roof skin, just re-glued or re-welded the skit to the roof braces. We'll see about the new exhaust, but I do not believe it will solve the problem. My Yukon only makes the roaring noise between about 35 MPH and 45 MPH. It's perfectly quite at highway speeds, but around town it've very annoying.

I am convinced it is due to the engine switching to the V4 mode, while in 6th gear at low RPM's. It's like the engine is lugging along.

It seems the simple fix would be to reprogram the engine/transmission so it does not go into the V4 mode at low speed and low RPM's. But heres the kicker. It would have a major impact on fuel milage, meaning my Yukon (or any Yukon/Suburban) would not get the gas milage that was stated on the window sticker.

I had a friend who is the Service Manager at a Chevy dealer tell me there is no way GM wants to have to restate the gas milage on the 10's of thousands of Yukon/Suburban's they have sold. He said what seems like a simple and logical fix (reprogram) will never happen.

There is no doubt GM has a big problem on their hands. It's just amazing this issue was not discovered during initial testing of the new style Yukon's and Suburbans.

I just made the monthly payment to GM on my Yukon..........that I have not driven in well over 2 weeks.

TOBTEK · April 7, 2015

Jason, you changed your picture! Nice bike!

Yea, the exhaust is a new twist for sure. Not sure about that but for sure let us know what happens.

Did they install a complete new roof skin on yours, jer1346? Wow. Haven't heard of that before.

I am starting to look more and more at the wheels/tires and suspension. I did some tests on the highway at different speeds and confirmed that the frequency of the peak noise changes with speed as ind is 2x the tire frequency. What is confusing is that every once in a while, the vehicle is stone silent...for a while. Like last Friday. Left the parking lot and drove about 8 km on pavement at about 65 kph. Not a sound. Got on the highway, and everything started up again. Pulled into town and back down to 50 and 60 kph speeds and it was terribly nosing again. So why the change?

Is it something in the shocks?

I am really wondering about the tires. Been doing some reading. Note this - GM is putting "H" speed rated tires on these vehicles. H rated tires are for sport sedans and coupes running sustained speeds of 130 mph! In order for a tire to do that, if must have a very strong nylon belt around the diameter to hold it together and be very stiff so it doesn't generate excessive heat. That's right...stiff. Combined with the stiffer frame, stiffer body, stiffer body mounts, stiffer suspension springs....sounds like a formula for noise ride. And, GM has a TSB that states that before doing and vibration diagnostics or tire balancing, the vehicle must be driven a certain distance after sitting to work out the flat spot in the nylon belt. Hmmmmm. Sounds awfully suspicious.

I would love to try a set of S rated 20" tires on mine to see the difference. My guess is that S rated tires would be significantly softer. But, pretty expensive experiment!

Remember what I said in one of my previous posts? When I met with one of the dealer relationship managers. The first thing he did was go down and check out the tires. He said GM has been having this same issue with the trucks for a few years. The tires ARE too firm, and the shocks are too firm. There is NO doubt this is one of the major problems here.

I have a meeting with the GM regional service engineer this morning. Wonder how this is going to go?

yukontruckman · April 7, 2015

Don't think they applied a new roof skin, just re-glued or re-welded the skit to the roof braces. We'll see about the new exhaust, but I do not believe it will solve the problem. My Yukon only makes the roaring noise between about 35 MPH and 45 MPH. It's perfectly quite at highway speeds, but around town it've very annoying.

I am convinced it is due to the engine switching to the V4 mode, while in 6th gear at low RPM's. It's like the engine is lugging along.

It seems the simple fix would be to reprogram the engine/transmission so it does not go into the V4 mode at low speed and low RPM's. But heres the kicker. It would have a major impact on fuel milage, meaning my Yukon (or any Yukon/Suburban) would not get the gas milage that was stated on the window sticker.

I had a friend who is the Service Manager at a Chevy dealer tell me there is no way GM wants to have to restate the gas milage on the 10's of thousands of Yukon/Suburban's they have sold. He said what seems like a simple and logical fix (reprogram) will never happen.

There is no doubt GM has a big problem on their hands. It's just amazing this issue was not discovered during initial testing of the new style Yukon's and Suburbans.

I just made the monthly payment to GM on my Yukon..........that I have not driven in well over 2 weeks.

Try putting the transmission in manual mode. That will keep it from switching to V4. Experiment with that in the 35 - 45 mph range and see if you notice any difference.