Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm guessing that those who have zeroed in on the roof sheet metal being thinner and thereby susceptible to creating a hormonic oscillation at highway speed have nailed the problem. It seems to me that other than re-skinning the roof with thicker metal there's only a few possibilities. One, as someone else suggested, spray the underside with material such as used for spay-in pickup bed liners. Would be very labor intensive and messy if not done with care though. Another, I think it would probably be impractical to space additional bows between present bows but that would probably correct the problem if it could be done. Or, run two rigid supports the length of the underside of roof to put an end to this harmonic oscillation. Of course, all this would have to be affixed to the underside of the roof with some sort of laminate or glue. However, because the problem exhibits itself on a small percent of vehicles there may also be a process control issue at work too.

I believe some people here had their roofs fixed while others yet have had there's checked and with roofs properly glued still report the same problem. Is this correct?
Posted

To add, mine were fixed, problems went away, came detached again, problems came back.

 

I am not 100% convinced that everyone who had the TSB and still has the issues has actually verified their roof bows are attached. If a tech inspected them, did said tech go for a drive on the freeway with the headliner out and actually verify no movement in the roof or just look at the roof while it was at rest? Did the owner shut a door and see if the roof jumps? Or pound the roof and see if the whole expanse resonates? These things can verify that the roof is in fact still attached and if so can verify that despite attached roof bows the problem still exists.

 

Frank

Posted (edited)

Mine were inspected and found to be intact. It has buffeted from the day 1.

 

I can't speak to the methodology that the technicians used, but I do know that there were at least two. One was an Ontario based field engineer and the other was from Michigan, sent to work on my case.

 

The fact that they returned my Yukon to me as "fixed" tells me that they either can't hear the booming/buffeting or that they've done all they can.

 

Either way, I've just become very pessimistic that this will be fixed and that I don't have the long term vehicle I thought I bought.

 

Very disappointing.

Edited by FogDucker
Posted

Well then, appears to me that the only recourse is to go down the repair path until the problem is fixed or until the Lemon Law requirements are met. Then, cash out.

Posted

What can't be explained is that we still have the buffeting even though the roof has been foam shimmed to the roof bows ,glued to the max and with 2 layers of dynamat STILL has the buffeting and booming, Something is not right with mine anyway. It's more evident in the drivers seat than anywhere else in the Denali.

 

It's too funny when family, friends and the tech's ride in the vehicle and say they cannot hear or feel anything. Then they drive it and say "oh yeah I hear and feel it now, that's not good".

Posted

Well then, appears to me that the only recourse is to go down the repair path until the problem is fixed or until the Lemon Law requirements are met. Then, cash out.

 

Agreed. And it starts with me putting my snow shoes up for sale!

Posted (edited)

Ouch, sorry to see you (eventually) go, Marc, your work here has been very valuable

 

Someone had asked about Canada, read this when you have time ... took him over a year, no response so he just took the hit and got into a Mercedes

 

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-escalade-esv-forum-2015/635369-finally-made-service-appointment-multiple-issues-27.html

Edited by boazEarl8
Posted

I've read where 2 other folks have gotten a return notice from NHTSA, maybe a good thing. I made a complaint on another thread and also received a notice from NHTSA today. The press visibility with the GM fullsize SUVs may have caused NHTSA to assign someone to now follow-up.

 

 

Hello

 

I work for National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) at the Department of Transportation. It is my job to follow up with vehicle owners when they have motor vehicle issues that are submitted on the NHTSA (http://www.nhtsa.gov/) or safercar.gov websites .

 

We would like your permission to share information regarding your complaint, including your vehicle identification number (VIN), with General Motors.

 

Thank you for your assistance.

 

 

Robert Caple

BLF Technologies Inc.

on assignment with National Highway Traffic

Safety Administration, U.S. Dept. Of Transportation

202.366.0864

 

 

For what it's worth, I received same email yesterday and responded with an approval to share with GM.

Posted

To add, mine were fixed, problems went away, came detached again, problems came back.

 

I am not 100% convinced that everyone who had the TSB and still has the issues has actually verified their roof bows are attached. If a tech inspected them, did said tech go for a drive on the freeway with the headliner out and actually verify no movement in the roof or just look at the roof while it was at rest? Did the owner shut a door and see if the roof jumps? Or pound the roof and see if the whole expanse resonates? These things can verify that the roof is in fact still attached and if so can verify that despite attached roof bows the problem still exists.

 

Frank

I'm not 100% sure that visually seeing the roof skin bounce when a door if closed is proof of the source of the buffeting. Case in point.... A colleague at work drives a 2009 Trailblazer. The roof jumps like crazy when a door is slammed shut. The vehicle exhibits absolutely zero booming, droning, or buffeting sounds at any and all speeds.

 

My company 2009 Ford Explorer also shows the roof bounce when a door is slammed. No buffeting.

 

Granted, different vehicles, different size roofs, different aerodynamics....the differences are endless. But what is the same is bouncing roof, yet not all bouncing roofs equal buffeting.

 

Just saying.....

Posted

You misunderstand my point. The roof jumping means it is not attached. Secondly, our roofs are much larger and thinner than the older vehicle you mention and thus require more bracing not to buffet. You might have a vehicle that for whatever reason does not excite the thin roof but it would appear in our case there too many disturbances to have an unrestrained roof and no buffeting.

 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Posted

Interested in hearing from those that have been through the buyback process. Were you charged with a usage fee? How many miles on your truck when you returned it, and what were you charged for the usage fee?

I contacted the dealer with around 200 miles on my car to let them know something was wrong. By the time they finished all of the "fixes", jumped through all the hoops, and convinced GM that it could not be repaired the vehicle had close to 1500 miles on it. The swap to the 2016 model was straight up, no money out of my pocket whatsoever. Even if they did try for a mileage penalty it would have only been charged to the initial 200 miles, which would have hardly been worth the aggravation.

Posted

Tomorrow is 5 months from the day I took delivery. My dealer has been great to work with. I have been compensated over these 5 months accordingly but ultimately just want a Yukon Denali that drives right. Thought we had one ready to be brought to my dealer via flatbed but my Service Mgr happened to be at that location last night and drove it. Said it vibrated pretty bad so that one is out.

 

Not sure folks know but when GM does a straight buyback and gets you into another vehicle they do so at DEALER COST. My lease essentially disappears and I get all monies put down, refunded. The problem is there is a dealer about 80 miles away from me that has 2 identical Yukon's I would take but he isn't willing to sell them at dealer cost. He is willing to sell them to me at supplier pricing (about $1000 difference). He also isn't willing to trade with my dealer as he says he will sell 5 white ones to 1 black one (I came into this wanting white). The dealers hands are so tied when it comes to solving these issues (especially since there isn't a fix) and GM's hands are so tied when it comes to getting a vehicle into my hands to make this potentially go away. They have pushed for me to just order one but my concern is waiting another 2 months only for it to arrive vibrating and buffeting.

 

What. A. Ride.

Posted

My 2015i Escalade ESV with 5000 miles goes in tomorrow for a list of problems. One being the roof buffeting. I can push on the rear roof by the window easy, BUT right above the rear passengers door the WHOLE roof can be pushed in. Close the door and the whole thing jumps. This has to be where the noise is coming from. I did a GM buy back in 2008 on another Escalade. I will do it again if need be...

Posted

So, according to GM, 40 engineers working on the problem. Here's how that gets decoded:

 

1. The Engineers know what the problem is and have a fix;

2. The spreadsheet lads are saying no, no too expensive find another way;

3. The ivory tower hasn't decided who to blame and then suggest an alternative career.

Posted

Tomorrow is 5 months from the day I took delivery. My dealer has been great to work with. I have been compensated over these 5 months accordingly but ultimately just want a Yukon Denali that drives right. Thought we had one ready to be brought to my dealer via flatbed but my Service Mgr happened to be at that location last night and drove it. Said it vibrated pretty bad so that one is out.

 

Not sure folks know but when GM does a straight buyback and gets you into another vehicle they do so at DEALER COST. My lease essentially disappears and I get all monies put down, refunded. The problem is there is a dealer about 80 miles away from me that has 2 identical Yukon's I would take but he isn't willing to sell them at dealer cost. He is willing to sell them to me at supplier pricing (about $1000 difference). He also isn't willing to trade with my dealer as he says he will sell 5 white ones to 1 black one (I came into this wanting white). The dealers hands are so tied when it comes to solving these issues (especially since there isn't a fix) and GM's hands are so tied when it comes to getting a vehicle into my hands to make this potentially go away. They have pushed for me to just order one but my concern is waiting another 2 months only for it to arrive vibrating and buffeting.

 

What. A. Ride.

My dealer explained the same situation to me. Fortunately, the one they found to replace mine was from a "cooperating dealer" that they work with often, so the swap went straight through. I definitely got lucky.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had an issue with a new 1985 Z-28 some years ago. The 4WDB's were less than adequate when purchased IMO.  I had taken it in for small warranty services and asked them on three occasions to check them. Each time is was "could not duplicate on the service ticket. The warranty ran out about a month after my last visit and had to take it back for warranty rework. I again complained about the brakes. Well, low and behold, this time they determined the rear calipers were sticking and gave me a quote to repair. They had records as well as O had receipts of each time complained about the brakes while still under warranty. My dad was a life long body shop owner and told me to keep my cool and tell them that I wanted to speak to the GM Regional District Manager. The service manager disappeared for a few minutes, came back and told me they would replace the calipers free of charge. 
    • Towing a 2022 Lance 24 ft travel trailer with our 2021 GMC Sierra 2500HD, gas.  Loaded, trailer is about 6,000 lb.  We get up to 10 mpg at 55 mpg, such as I-5.  Pleased with the combination.
    • I decided to give it a shot and see what sort of a gong show it would be to a pan drop themed oil change on my 2025 gas truck with the 10 speed. All indications I had seen so far was that there was no way that pan was coming out of there due to the cross over exhaust pipe not allowing enough clearance for the back end of the pan to duck out from under the valve body since it hangs lower than the pan to trans mount flange and certainly the filter does. I never touched any of the exhaust mount hardware at all, be that the engine manifolds to Y pipe, the bracket on the side of the transmission, or the two bolt flange further back behind the trans/transfer case. I put the truck up on four jack stands as there was no way I was going to struggle with that lack of clearance under the truck. The truck was cold as it had sat over night so all the trans fluid had drained to the pan, so I drained the bit of oil that would come out of the level check plug at the bottom near the front of the pan and put the plug back in to reduce the ensuing mess after that. Then took out all but one bolt front and rear and then pushed up on the pan and took out the remaining two bolts and then let the front of the pan tilt and spill out most of its contents into a drain pan. I then popped the pan gasket off its two locating nubs and kicked it a bit to the left side so it was no longer on the flange of the pan to get all the clearance I could and managed to get the pan slipped out of there by swinging the front of the pan to the right but keeping the rear part of the pan inline if not slightly to the left of its mounting flange area and lifting the front of the pan enough to keep the rear part of the pan low enough that allowed the pan to "JUST" slip out without forcing anything. I installed a new trans filter and seal and as per GM instructions on this site I torqued the two bolts to that 44 inch pound goal ( they take an 8 mm socket ) In reversing the pan procedure after I had cleaned up the pan both inside and out completely ( touching the outside of a dirty pan and dealing with installing a gasket at the same time would be a disaster ). First I slipped the pan into place and yes it took me a while as it won't go unless its slid in just at the right angles, then once the back of the pan was into the area of the flange mount, I went and got the gasket and then threaded that through the front of the pan and feeding it under the filter etc and finally working it onto the flange of the pan and lining up the two locating nubs to drop into the pan. Then lifted the pan up into place and get a couple of bolts started and check and make sure the gasket is where its supposed to be as the bolts were being put in. I never used any power tools as I don't have any of the whimsy little drive guns, I use what looks like a small screw driver handle with shank that has a 1/4 drive on the end of it and added an extension and those bolts use a 10 mm socket as some times power tools can bite a person if used on delicate parts ( torqued to 80 inch pounds ). Also should note as per rules around pulling the add plug out first, yes I cracked that loose with a 8 mm Allen bit socket on a 3/8 slim head ratchet as there isn't a lot of room to work with there either due to the exhaust on the right side of the trans.    I already had delco ULV oil on hand and of course the quart bottle pump wasn't made for those small cap threads so I had to use some other containers that the pump would fit and keep transferring oil over into them so a wasted exercise there but indeed the small pump did work just fine as ULV oil is thin and easy to pump in summer time weather. I put in 9.5 quarts as per prior minimum recommendation and yes that cut it pretty close as once I had the truck ( off the jack stands so its level ) and the trans oil up to 167f , about 6 ounces came out but a level kit or what have you could throw it off just enough that it wouldn't be enough oil so probably that 10 quarts is a good amount to put in so one doesn't have to add more oil as when its hot I sure wouldn't want to be adding oil so would have to let the exhaust cool. All I do for warming up the transmission is sit there with it in park and rev it to about 2500 rpm and it takes close to 20 minutes to get it up to that lower limit of 167f, weird how it will warm up more doing that then by driving it, I am not real keen on power braking the truck to get the temp up there and don't seem to have to either. By the way I only have 9000 miles on the truck so probably not a very good payback on doing it that soon and the magnets had such a minor thin layer of fines on them so that was good to see and the color of the oil was a darker red then new oil but still looked very good as it should and I've not done any towing with it so its been living a pretty easy life so far. The filter is made in such a way that its next to impossible to pull out the filter media but there certainly was some fines showing up there which makes sense give the trans having to break in.    I hadn't really planned on explaining this much of what I had done since there are various instruction videos kicking around or I think so, as the gist of my message as that by fluke or what have you, for some reason my truck has just enough clearance to slip the pan out from the trans. Of course there is no guarantee that other trucks like this in general will also allow the pan to be taken out without messing with the exhaust as I expect its probably a crap shoot if it will or won't, I was just happy to find out that mine would work and avoid all the other struggling and possibly damaging things in the process,     
    • Do you fellas think Fog Lamps would  be a good upgrade for our 2024 2500 HD Custom ? As you probably know it did not come with them ,  Would you put in GM Chevy parts ? Do they get wired up to the switch panel ( Upfitter or whatever the correct terminology is ) on the dash ? Thanks
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...