Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

We were in the market for a 2015 or 2016, but with these known issues and no clear fix, topped with rust issues on a well kept 2011 that the dealer and apparently GM didn't care to stand behind, we decided to try something else. We had paint issues on our 2005, 2007, and 2011. On the last one they fixed the two spots just above the rear tires, but they returned in the same places about 11 months later. They strung me along until I had enough and sold it. We are enjoying a trouble free Audi.

Edited by GMC21
  • Like 1
Posted

Considering the 2017's will be rolling onto dealer lots very very soon. Nothing is probably fixed, or redesigned....

  • Like 1
Posted

I have owned my 2015 Yukon since Sept there was some slight pressure in the beginning and the pressure went away after 1 mo, there trucks has no made buffeting or boom noises, its ultra smooth. Very happy with my purchase.

Posted

Regarding your Audi purchase; just be sure to get rid of it before the warranty expires....

Posted (edited)

Hey All, its been a while. Hope you guys are getting some answers with appropriate resolution... Whatever happened to the "Exhaust Fix"? Did anyone find any resolution? Any chance they will have figured this out for the 2017s?

Edited by jasondenali15
Posted

I drove one today. Seemed ok but I did expect it to ride a bit better, not a issue just stiff. I did experience one vibration. At about 30 mph I gave it a little gas and for a couple seconds I did feel a vibration, then gone. My guess is it was in 4cyl. mode and a little gas and it couldn't handle it and jumped back to 8cyl. Does this sound right? Does 4cyl. mode begin at any certain speed or just whenever it fells it can. Does anyone else notice anything like this. I tried to do it again but could not.

  • Like 1
Posted

Does 4cyl. mode begin at any certain speed or just whenever it fells it can.

Once I am at a set speed and on flat terrain, 4 cylinder kicks-in with no vibration or no notice. This could be at 35 or 75. To answer your question, on my truck it happens at any speed and whenever it feels it can.

Posted

If I had to describe this feeling it would be like driving a manual transmission and shifting to 4th when you were going for 2nd. I think the engine active fuel management and the transmission don't work together seamlessly. After more research, I found where it said the switch from 4 to 8 takes only 1/20th of a second. So how do you know if it is in 4 or 8 or does it really not matter. Can you feel it change back and forth? Can this feature be deactivated without a check engine light on?

Posted

If I had to describe this feeling it would be like driving a manual transmission and shifting to 4th when you were going for 2nd. I think the engine active fuel management and the transmission don't work together seamlessly. After more research, I found where it said the switch from 4 to 8 takes only 1/20th of a second. So how do you know if it is in 4 or 8 or does it really not matter. Can you feel it change back and forth? Can this feature be deactivated without a check engine light on?

My transmission does not drag like going from 1st to 4th. If I drive down the road with the windows up, radio off, and no talking in the truck, I could not tell when the truck goes from V4 to V8 and vice versa. The only way I could tell would be to look at the dash. Knowing my truck is in 4 or 8 doesn't matter to me 'cause the truck immediately transitions to 8 when there is a change of terrain or if I touch the gas pedal. I have not read if the AFM feature can be disabled.

Posted

I drove one today. Seemed ok but I did expect it to ride a bit better, not a issue just stiff. I did experience one vibration. At about 30 mph I gave it a little gas and for a couple seconds I did feel a vibration, then gone. My guess is it was in 4cyl. mode and a little gas and it couldn't handle it and jumped back to 8cyl. Does this sound right? Does 4cyl. mode begin at any certain speed or just whenever it fells it can. Does anyone else notice anything like this. I tried to do it again but could not.

If you switch the computer screen in the dashboard console to show your gas mileage it will have an indicator on the lower right to show V8 or V4.

 

On my 2016, it sometimes feels at slower speeds (35-40 mph) like a manual transmission lugging in too high a gear causing some slight vibration. But the 22 -23 mpg on the highway is well worth the trade off . . . to me at least.

Posted

If you switch the computer screen in the dashboard console to show your gas mileage it will have an indicator on the lower right to show V8 or V4.

 

On my 2016, it sometimes feels at slower speeds (35-40 mph) like a manual transmission lugging in too high a gear causing some slight vibration. But the 22 -23 mpg on the highway is well worth the trade off . . . to me at least.

That is likely it. I was going about 30-32mph and with slight gas pressure it vibrated for a second or two then instantly stopped as I speed up. Drove it again today, since it was bothering me, and could not recreate it. Ran it up to 80mph and still smooth. I must decide if the $3500 rebate is worth the risk.

Posted

How do you know if any roof bows have become detached? Can you tell be looking at the roof or feel it in any way. Or is it only that when people take it in for booming/buffeting that they find they have become detached. I guess my question is, are there thousands of Yukons [and others] driving around right now with all bows detached but it just happens to not be as noticeable to the owner. Even if my Yukon XL drove quiet as can be, I would always wonder if any or all bows are still glued down.

 

Still waiting for a response from GM as I asked a few days ago, before I even consider buying one. And their is only one left the way I want it so hurry up with that answer.

Posted (edited)

it is hard to explain but every time i get a ride in my Tahoe i feel sick dizzy and queasy. pressure in my ears and kind of something tight my head's back. anyone know what cause that feel ?

Edited by albader2007
Posted

I dropped my 2015 Chevy Tahoe PPV at the dealership to have the brakes fixed, rattling noise from passenger side 2nd row seat, vibration at various speeds fixed and wind buffeting (however, they said because GM has not released a guaranteed fix that they would not attempt to fix it and would need to speak with an area representative).

 

Does this sound right?

Posted

Why does it seem like the escalades ar priced lower then the denalis on the used market right now? Do the 22s lower the value due to the ride

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • That computer lies!
    • My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
    • I have four that read by the dash 8 to 10% better than miles/pump calculations and I have one that is spot on. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...