Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
30 minutes ago, Ravenkeeper said:

The part number(s) that you are looking for are listed in one of these, think it was in the LONG one, "LED Under Rail Bed Lighting." 

Thank you very much. I thought I had looked though all of those but I guess I missed it. Just ordered the harness off of eBay. Should be here Monday, then I can install my back rack led lights and someday a real set off bed lights. Thanks again Ravenkeeper!

  • Like 1
Posted
10 minutes ago, E-rich1210 said:

Thank you very much. I thought I had looked though all of those but I guess I missed it. Just ordered the harness off of eBay. Should be here Monday, then I can install my back rack led lights and someday a real set off bed lights. Thanks again Ravenkeeper!

You're welcome.  I am still looking at doing mine, but with LEDs.  Bunch of the guys said they were tired of trying to find a way to splice them into the cargo lights, so it was suggested to connect at the j-box under the bed, then someone found/made a connector for the j-box.  I know that I have a lot of reading ahead of me, when I finally go for this project.

Posted
8 minutes ago, Ravenkeeper said:

You're welcome.  I am still looking at doing mine, but with LEDs.  Bunch of the guys said they were tired of trying to find a way to splice them into the cargo lights, so it was suggested to connect at the j-box under the bed, then someone found/made a connector for the j-box.  I know that I have a lot of reading ahead of me, when I finally go for this project.

That's my plan, splice off one side of the harness for the back rack led lights and the add two or three led strip lights under my tonneau cover. I'll probably do the reverse light diode trick so that they come on with the cargo lights as well as two led reverse lights I'll have installed. Once it's all done I'll post some pics.

Posted
17 minutes ago, E-rich1210 said:

That's my plan, splice off one side of the harness for the back rack led lights and the add two or three led strip lights under my tonneau cover. I'll probably do the reverse light diode trick so that they come on with the cargo lights as well as two led reverse lights I'll have installed. Once it's all done I'll post some pics.

Cargo on with reverse lights, or reverse lights on with cargo?  If you stumble across my diode photo, mine is set cargo on with reverse.  For reverse on with cargo, turn the diode around.

Posted

Thanks, I'll probably do the reverse on with cargo. Since i'll have two led lights that come on with reverse I shouldn't need the cargo light. and when I turn on the cargo light, the whole back of the truck will turn on :) Thanks again for all your help. This forum is great and full of knowledgeable people.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 1/17/2018 at 7:22 PM, nmyron said:

I just have to say thanks to the OP and the rest. Just did this on my 2017. Used a piece of single-strand 24ga hookup I had laying around. 

 

I got a nice set of LED backup and cargo replacement bulbs from eBay (link will be below), right after I picked the truck up because (esp in the rain) at night my backup camera was useless. They helped, some. I hit the seller up (had one of the plate lights go out) and asked about some brighter reverse lamps, and for an extra cost he shipped me a pair to try. Much better, and then when combined with the cargo lamp hack found here, it's almost as bright behind the truck in reverse as in front!

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182525013600

 

This link is for the original reverse lamps and cargo bulbs. I am asking the seller for an updated listing for the new reverse lamps and cargo bulbs. Will update when/if provided.

 

large.20180117_191539.jpg.083306e2ba1808a964f6d5fb9d9a0745.jpg

 

Here is a pic of the original upgrade reverse lamps to compare.

large.20170629_220050_20180117202622794.jpg.90c9c9a788771b70beddd2e86878ac2a.jpg

 

 

Did you, by chance, ever get specs on those updated lamps ?

I am looking to upgrade mine, as i agree... backup cam is useless in the rain.

 

THANKS!!

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

So I made the connection for cargo on w/ reverse. Test it out- all good, works perfectly.

Now about an hour later I went back out to my truck and hit the unlock button. I’ve got no reverse lights and no cargo light coming on. Hit the cargo light button and no cargo light... Checked the reverse light fuse under the hood and it’s still good. Any idea what might have gone wrong?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
So I made the connection for cargo on w/ reverse. Test it out- all good, works perfectly.

Now about an hour later I went back out to my truck and hit the unlock button. I’ve got no reverse lights and no cargo light coming on. Hit the cargo light button and no cargo light... Checked the reverse light fuse under the hood and it’s still good. Any idea what might have gone wrong?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Make sure the wires are pushed in to make the connection. Mine wasnt and took a little to figure it out.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted



So I made the connection for cargo on w/ reverse. Test it out- all good, works perfectly.

Now about an hour later I went back out to my truck and hit the unlock button. I’ve got no reverse lights and no cargo light coming on. Hit the cargo light button and no cargo light... Checked the reverse light fuse under the hood and it’s still good. Any idea what might have gone wrong?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Make sure it's dark out?



In a similar thought to wiring up the cargo lights to the reverse lights, which is btw, an awesome idea and I might do it if I can't figure out the way I really want to fix them. Is there a way I can do a diode jumper from the cargo lights to the interior lights? I want the cargo lights to come on with the interior lights, but not vice versa. Just like the way they used to on older trucks.

I don't have access to wiring diagrams and I don't know where to look other than under the dash like has been described before. Any help?

Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

Posted





Make sure it's dark out?



In a similar thought to wiring up the cargo lights to the reverse lights, which is btw, an awesome idea and I might do it if I can't figure out the way I really want to fix them. Is there a way I can do a diode jumper from the cargo lights to the interior lights? I want the cargo lights to come on with the interior lights, but not vice versa. Just like the way they used to on older trucks.

I don't have access to wiring diagrams and I don't know where to look other than under the dash like has been described before. Any help?

Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk




I ended up getting mine working, just had to really jam that diode in there.

Check out this video, it’ll show you where the dome light wire is. You should be able to run your diode between it and the cargo light connection.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

So I found the correct pins, but dang if couldn't find a diode anywhere within a 30 miles of my place, so I'll have to order some. I did try it out with a jumper wire and the theory works, just need a diode so I can get it to work how I want.

Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
On 5/4/2018 at 2:37 PM, noJeepshere said:


 

 


Make sure it's dark out?



In a similar thought to wiring up the cargo lights to the reverse lights, which is btw, an awesome idea and I might do it if I can't figure out the way I really want to fix them. Is there a way I can do a diode jumper from the cargo lights to the interior lights? I want the cargo lights to come on with the interior lights, but not vice versa. Just like the way they used to on older trucks.

I don't have access to wiring diagrams and I don't know where to look other than under the dash like has been described before. Any help?

Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
 

 

Jumper going from GRY-1 to PNK-26.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...