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On 5/6/2018 at 12:03 AM, 2009GMC said:

Have them check torque on all bolts. Sway bar links, the 3 top shock nuts and 2 lower nuts. Upper and lower Ball joints, tie rods.

 

did you have it aligned? Your toe changed due lift. Only adjustment should have been tie rods. 

 

Something is just barely loose and allowing a slight movement   

Just had them check over everything. They drove it and checked it 3 different times and couldn’t find as issue. I watched them tighten everything and double check everything. I guess it was something already wrong before I got the shocks added, so now I have to hope my extended warranty will cover it workout being voided. I was told since I added shocks and struts versus just a spacer kit it wouldn’t void anything. Now I can only hope 

Posted

If you have a torque wrench I would recommend finding the factory torque specs on her. Most is 36 ft lbs and 90 degrees pass. Most mechanics at shops today are not very good. I would about 10% of mechanics are real intelligent and actually care.


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  • 1 year later...
Posted

I am sure the answer is in this thread, but its way too long to read every post. I have a 14 AT with an RC 2" level stock shocks. Wanting to replace and it looks like the 5100 is the best way to go (correct me if Im wrong). 

If I go with the 5100, do I remove the level and install the 5100s at max height or leave the level and install at stock setting? OR can I leave the level and install at max height to make it effectively a 4" lift?

Posted
I am sure the answer is in this thread, but its way too long to read every post. I have a 14 AT with an RC 2" level stock shocks. Wanting to replace and it looks like the 5100 is the best way to go (correct me if Im wrong). 
If I go with the 5100, do I remove the level and install the 5100s at max height or leave the level and install at stock setting? OR can I leave the level and install at max height to make it effectively a 4" lift?

Well, you could get coil overs that would ride even better, so I guess 5100s could or couldn’t be the best way to go, it’s all relative to whatever you’ve got in mind.

You can do any option you’ve listed of the 3, the best option is relative to what you want to achieve. Looking to stay level and have a smooth ride? are you looking to go 4” up front and leave the back at stock height with the Billy’s? Only the fronts are adjustable, This would achieve the dirty diaper look; but you’d be riding rough and more than likely be replacing/upgrading some other components upfront sooner than later. If you are going to keep them at stock height with your current level, then there would really be no need to purchase the adjustable series.


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Posted

Thanks. Reading more about it, I’m leaning towards removing the level and going with rancho quicklift.


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  • 1 year later...
Posted

Guys,

 

I fortunately got 155k out of my front 2015 Sierra Denali Magneride components. I'm replacing with the Bilstein 5100's. I've ready many posts about installs. However, I can't find a definitive resource regarding what needs to be swapped out of the Denali/Magneride front strut setup to basically make it an SLT or lower trim front strut setup. Do I need just the new non-Denali strut mounts (KYB SM5861), or should I replace more components like the spring, bumper, cup, etc. to pair with the Bilsteins? I have the Xineering magneride delete components to handle the electronic side. I just need to know what components need swapped out to welcome a traditional Bilstein install in place of the Magneride shock.

 

Thank you.

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