Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I had done this a while ago but for anyone tat wants instant throttle response, try Pedal Commander or Sprint booster and whatever other throttle signal modifier is out there.

I have PC and it def works great. Im in sport +2 mode and all it needs is a small tip in and the truck just reacts instantly. No it doesnt add power but you will love driving your truck. Price should be cheaper but still its worth it. I got it used off fleebay.

Posted

This message is for ChevTech77. You stated in this thread about a half dozen pages back that this is the way Chevrolet Engineers designed the gas pedal for our 14-18 K2’s because the Chev 900 series had complaints of Vibraion when in AFM mode. 

CAN YOU EXPLAIN THAT?  So you’re saying that a slight vibration is going to interfere with Gas Mileage in our new trucks?

please come back and explain, cause a lot of us are not Techs as yourself and would like to know why Chev designed the pedal with flex in it. 

Thank you

 

 

  • 3 months later...
Posted

I’m gonna bump this for all the new guys like myself. Paint stick worked like a charm. I loosened the nut and pulled the housing a little, made it easier to wedge the stick in there. Tightened it back, can’t even see it. Definitely more responsive, it’s not a Diablo tuner fix but it’s free and made a big difference. Nice job OP..

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

bump, i must be lucky because mine doesn't move at that point.  i have a 2014 AT with adjustable pedals. I do have some play and wiggle in mine but its where the sliding parts of the adjustment apparatus is.  I have no movement at the firewall. mine actually has a black plastic piece behind that lower bolt part that holds it tight to the firewall. mine moves right to left about 3 mm. i cut some thick rubber and crammed it in between the 2 pieces causing it to not wiggle. 

 

i was disappointed to say the least. i was hoping for at least some flex at the firewall.

 

i will say, after driving it for a week after doing this, it does drive better. Throttle response is much better.  

Edited by tig488
  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...
Posted (edited)

I picked up a 17 Yukon Denali with adjustable pedals a couple months ago. I thought the light throttle acceleration was "soft" and vague. An example of this is when i back it into the driveway. It is a very short drive, not too much bigger than the truck itself and it is pitched forward. I am backing up  a very short hill. Having the vagueness in the pedal made it a bit interesting trying not to put the truck through the tiny garage door.

 

 I ran across this thread and thought that what is described here sounded a helluva lot like what i felt, and not just while backing into driveway. Did a bit of showing off with a brake torque and I could really feel the vibration, in the entire assembly, as you have a foot on each pedal. 


So I cut a paint stir stick up and put a double thick piece in behind at the corner as there was a lot of flex in mine. Much better now. It is not like there is ~more~ power, it is the way it comes on. What i would call proper, with feedback.

 

This difference is felt on all of our off idle acceleration conditions we face in our daily drives. Lay off the pedal in busy conditions and get back on it, the vague "lag" as you depress the pedal is near completely gone. 


The one really nice change with this repair is with the 1-2 shift. Quite a bit quicker now. I like this. Under light acceleration it did feel like granny double clutching her old Studebaker, took forever and felt very weak.  Not any longer. 

 

As a whole, much better drivability with this mod, errr repair.

Thanks OP!

Dale

Edited by dale442
Posted

So far on these trucks I have tried tuning, bigger throttle body, adjusting the sensor on the peddle, and last but not least the paint stick trick.Everything improved throttle response slightly but there was always a present delay and bog before taking off that nothing seemed to cure.This is because no matter what you do the ecu is always going to command less throttle angle for a given pedal angle.I can only assume this is to keep from squeeling the tires at every stoplight and wasting a bunch of gas.The only thing that fixed this problem for me was a throttle controller.There are a bunch of them out there but what I never liked about them for one was the $300 price, that most couldnt be adjusted on the fly without causing problems, and also that when the throttle controllers failed just like a faulty TPS sensor they can immobilize a trucks throttle which can be dangerous.I ended up taking a gamble on a $150 throttle controller from Wind booster and it did everything that I needed, could be changed anytime on the fly while driving, and the moment you pull the wire on it the controller is no longer doing anything and the truck drives %100 like stock.If the paint stick trick doesnt quite do it for you I highly recommend trying this.They are on Ebay for around $150 but I picked one up on a $120 Ali Express sale

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33048178516.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.78a84c4d5gVKzA

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Response-Controller-for-Chevrolet-Sierra-1500-Silverado-GMC-Sierra-1500/303516709242?hash=item46ab01717a:g:nSoAAOSwdHtecJAg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I installed the paint stick as described above and I could immediately see a difference in throttle response.

I always tried avoid the delay or smooth out the bogging issue at take off by feathering the throttle, never mind having to use the brake and gas at the same time to back up a short driveway without slamming into the garage door.

It was an obvious issue after getting down and taking a look at the amount of flex for myself... it needed to be addressed!

As others have stated, I’m not claiming extra power or anything like that but there definitely is better throttle response now. No more feathering the gas pedal and hopefully no more riding the brake as I back up a short driving as I inch near the garage door.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 11 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 559 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...